Log Splitter build parts, these days?

[barton174]

So, I pulled a muscle in my back a couple months ago, and have the Huskee 20-ton splitter. I had considered adding a valve, cylinder, and lift arm to this one, but the way it's set up, there really isn't room. Not to mention that I want to do it the other direction (splitting near the truck end), as well as having a push plate into a wedge, rather than a wedge into a push plate. Basically, I want to hook it to the back of my trailer, and push wood right into the trailer.

So, I think what I'm going to do is build my own, from scratch, and sell my current one when I'm done. That brings me to the actual question of the post (though, feel free to comment/coach on any of it)... I found some posts from 3-4-5-6 years ago, but you know the Internet. Are Surplus Center and Northern tool still the places to get that stuff? I know there are places that sell splitter kits, and I know of a manufacturer, locally, who builds their splitters from these hydraulic parts kits, but I don't know where they're getting them.

As an aside, the fabrication shouldn't be a big deal, machinery-wise. I've got a Hypertherm Powermax 45 and a Miller 252 at home (I do offroad fab stuff on the side), which should both be capable of doing the metal work.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[triptester]

This company seems to offer parts at a decent price.
http://www.splitez.com/log_splitter_wood_splitters.html

 

[barton174]

Having said that, there's a splitter that I found that's nearly exactly what I'd build, for like $1500, including the log lift and adjustable "T" splitter and all that, so I might as well just buy that one. I'd have more than that in parts.
ETA: Nevermind, it's sold

Mike

 

[bigmoose]

Surplus center.

 

[muddstopper]

Having said that, there's a splitter that I found that's nearly exactly what I'd build, for like $1500, including the log lift and adjustable "T" splitter and all that, so I might as well just buy that one. I'd have more than that in parts.

Mike

Pretty hard to build one cheaper than you can buy one if you buy all new parts. Building your own does have the advantage of building what you want and not having to accept Box store, one size fits all, splitters. I have built a few splitters and I can safely say I usually endup with more money in them than I would have if I had just bought instead of build. My current splitter I built from mostly scrap yard scrounge and parts I had accumulated over the years.

 

[barton174]

Yeah, I'm finding that out. What I'm looking to end up with is something like this, more or less:
http://www.palletforks.com/3-point-...9xi60f76dItL7OE58rGrmbVidet3ja0PKwxoCQbTw_wcB

Push-through design, T-blade, with a log lift, and whether it comes with a table or I have to fab one is no big deal either way.

Mike

 

[Ted Jenkins]

From my point of view good splitters can not be bought. That being said there are many manufactures that build splitters that meet most peoples needs. What you need or are describing is a very custom splitter. If you have shopped around and have determined that you can not find what you want then there you have it. My current needs are that a splitter needs very good suspension. Have not seen a reasonably good suspended setup so it has to be built. Mine has independent A frame units similar to many pickup front ends with coil springs. As far as the log lifter many units come with a log lifter. There has not been a real need for a log lifter for my operation, since my winches do some of the heavy lifting. One thing that has proved to be important is the metal used at the top of the I beam it needs to be very thick. Mine is 1'' thick. This is so the wearing surface of the pusher or wedge has plenty of surface to spread out the torque as it moves back and forth. Mine can go 2 or 3 years before it needs to be rebuilt. Few splitters can barely make it through a whole season without needing all the sliding bushings being replaced and the I beam built up with harfacing. My last splitter uses heavy gauge 6'' tubing as the back bone which also doubles as the hydraulic tank and cooler. One problem arose because of the tubing in that the axles had to be offset to compensate for the weight being on one side more than the other. The Surplus Center did have good pumps at a great price recently. They have great prices on hoses and fittings. You should be able to find a 22 to 24 HP motor with a 28 CFM pump for under a $1000 and the rest of the stuff you need could be gotten at a wreking yard or salvage place. 5'' to 6'' rams can be pricey, but if you go to tractor places or CL they can be very reasonable used. When you are done your unit will be exactly what you want with value of at least $3500 or more. Or buy some thing and have it modified. Thanks

 

[cantoo]

This is what I did to my Speeco before I built my 36" splitter.

 

[muddstopper]

Yeah, I'm finding that out. What I'm looking to end up with is something like this, more or less:
http://www.palletforks.com/3-point-...9xi60f76dItL7OE58rGrmbVidet3ja0PKwxoCQbTw_wcB

Push-through design, T-blade, with a log lift, and whether it comes with a table or I have to fab one is no big deal either way.

Mike

I dont think you can build that splitter, buying new parts, for what you can buy it for. I'll just say How I would approach that build if I was going to try it myself.

First, the cyl is a a 5inbore with a 3.5in shaft. I would guess the vendor has someone building those cyl for them. If you can find one like that, it would probably cost $1000 or more just to purchase. I would look for a similar bore cyl with a common shaft size and have a machine shop install a bigger shaft. A common size cyl will be a lot cheaper than a custom job, but once you add machine shop cost I dont know you would save any money. Of course you could just use a off the shelf standard cyl, and save a ton of money. The bigger shafts only real function is to decrease cycle speed.

For a engine, I would start hitting the lawn mower repair shops. Lots of good 20+hp engines setting around on otherwise junk riding mowers and usually pretty cheap. Down side would be the engines most likely will be vertical shaft instead of horizontal. This just means you would have to fab your own pump mount instead of buying a premade mount. No downside to mounting the pump vertical instead of horizonal, but you can save some money using the used vertical shaft engine and building your own mount. I would most certainly buy a 28gpm 2 stage pump.

You have a good plasma cutter and welder, time to hit the scrap yards to find a hbeam and metal to make the rest of the machine. How much you spend here just depends on what you can find used and what you have to buy new. I used a old boat trailer to set my splitter on. High speed axles with spring suspension. If you cant find a thick flanged hbeam, you can always top plate the upper flange and web using plate metal. dont be afraid to overbuild in this area, if it bends you have to start over so you might as well make it super strong to begin with.

For the log lift, it comes down to personal preferences. Lots of folks like their lifts. I prefer a to use a boom with winch and log tongs to load my large round. The way I figure it, I have to roll that big round up to the lift before I can load it on the splitter. With the winch and tongs. I just walk over to the round, hook it up and winch it upto and onto the splitter. I used a old mechanics crane for my boom. My control cord is 20ft long and beats the heck out of rolling a 48" round 20ft to put on a lift. You can buy a atv winch to do the same thing for less than $100.

The wedge on the machine in your link is a cheap method for a adjustable 4way, actually something I hadnt considered before. Manually adjustable and held in place with a locking bolt. I would consider using hydraulics to change the wedge height. few different ways to accomplish this. I would search the net and find a method you like and then just copy it.

Control valve come in may flavors. I personally like a single spool with return detent, which is real common on a wood splitter. Then there is the autocycle which detents in both directions and had auto return. folks splitting a lot of wood and looking for extra speed like to use them. To save a few bucks and something you can find in the scrap yard, you can find and use a normal self centering valve. Just make sure you use a control valve rated for the fuild flow your pump can supply, otherwise you will end up spending more money for more parts like dump valves and more hoses to flow what needs to be pumped.