Log splitter motor question (Hydro locking)

[sb47]

I have a Countylin 40 ton log splitter that has a Kohler Command Pro CH440 14HP engine.
It has been trouble free for 5 years. I have been using it everyday for the past two weeks with zero issues.
It always starts on the first pull. The other day I went to start it and the pull rope was stuck or so I thought, then pulled the spark plug to see if it would turn over with no restrictions and I got a face full of gas, as gas squirted out the plug hole. So it was hydro locked.
After I pulled it enough times to get all the fuel out of the cylinder, I put the plug back and it started right away.
The very next day it did it again. I checked the carburetor float and it seemed to be working.

My question is what can make it dump fuel in the cylinder when it is not running?
I have been using a pare of hemo stats to clamp off the fuel line going to the carb to keep it from doing it again.
The float is not water logged and the needle valve on the float looks fine. Is there something else in the carb that would make it dump fuel in the cylinder when it is not running?
Thanks

 

[Lionsfan]

Almost has to be the needle and seat, doesn't it?

 

[sb47]

Almost has to be the needle and seat, doesn't it?

I agree but I pulled the needle out and it lookedfine with no dents or dings. I spraied carb cleaner up inside the needle valve tube to clean any trash that may be stuck on the seat up inside the tube the needle goes into.. It still seems to have no problem shutting off the fuel when I lift the float up and it shuts the full off completely. I even blew compressed air up inside the needle tube to try and blow out aly trash the may have gotten stuck. Still doing.

 

[lone wolf]

Almost has to be the needle and seat, doesn't it?

I seen it happen yes. Dont forget to change the oil its full of gas now.

 

[ken morgan]

I seen it happen yes. Dont forget to change the oil its full of gas now.

forgot for a second we were talking about a 4 stroke splitter... was like Wtf is lone wolf talking about... then was like Oh yeah not a chainsaw but a splitter....

 

[Okie]

You need to install this Briggs in-line fuel shutoff. Be sure you get the Briggs and not a China clone. They are about $8 or so at Napa. Fit's 1/4 inch ID fuel lines.
I install these on all my equipment that is gravity fed fuel systems to correct your issue.

Also change your oil before the engine throws a rod.. It's thinned out due to gas contamination.
It is the carb needle/seat leaking intermittently. You can take a Q tip and carb cleaner and clean the seat and replace the needle and it will usually be ok for awhile, BUT using the in-line shutoff is what you need. When you get through using the splitter just shut off the petcock and let the carb run dry. this reduces the chance that you won't forget to turn off the petcock when the splitter is going to be stored for awhile.

Briggs & Stratton 698183 Fuel Shut-Off Valve For Quantum and Selected Models, In-Line Valve,Black​

 

[davidprivett]

does anyone know if there is a inline 1/4 to 5/16 fuel line 12 volt electric shut off valve available ? I know some carbs have a electric valve in the bowl bottoms.

 

[Okie]

does anyone know if there is a inline 1/4 to 5/16 fuel line 12 volt electric shut off valve available ? I know some carbs have a electric valve in the bowl bottoms.

You also wrote this: I know some carbs have a electric valve in the bowl bottoms.

That electric solenoid in the bottom of the bowl on small engines is a Anti Backfire solenoid valve. I does not stop fuel flow into the carb or the engine if the carb needle/seat is leaking. When the 12v is removed (key turned to off) the solenoid's pintle reduces fuel flow the the high speed jet and reduces chance of backfire as the engine is dying.

As to your question about a electric shutoff solenoid for the fuel supply line.
I ask this question in a small engine forum about a reasonably priced in-line 12v solenoid and was told no such thing due to price, but their are vacuum pulse operated shutoff valves for small engines similar to the pulse operated fuel pump for around $15 but the installation of such a vacuum pulse valve is not user friendly. I just install the Briggs type I mentioned above and moved on. I tried some of the China made low priced grab bag manual valves from fleece bay that looked like the Briggs valve and they are junk.

You can present your question at this site and see if you get the same results that I received about year ago. The site is for smal engine questions and Lots of small engine guys hang out here and you will usually get a fast reply.:

http://ppeten.com/forums/

 

[LoneOak]

The Kohler CH440 should already have a fuel shut off valve, exactly for that reason. I have the same model engine on my stump grinder. My countyline 22 ton splitter has a CH270 and also has a fuel shut off valve. Just gotta get used to shutting that fuel off after each use!!

 

[Del_]

It's good to shut of the fuel but evidently the seat and needle have a problem or the float needs adjusting or is hanging up.

 

[LoneOak]

Yes they most definitely do have a problem....Time and Vibration!!!!
I don't know if SB47 moves his splitters around as much as mine gets moved around but every time I lone out my splitter it comes back flooded with fuel.

 

[sb47]

Yes they most definitely do have a problem....Time and Vibration!!!!
I don't know if SB47 moves his splitters around as much as mine gets moved around but every time I lone out my splitter it comes back flooded with fuel.

It only gets gently moved with my tractor around the yard at low speed. It's odd that it started doing it all of the sudden. The hemo stats work fine clamping the fuel line off and then I let it run out of fuel. I'll try to clean the needle valve again.

Just don't ask me about my truck. Took it to a shop for them the test the starter because it had been clicking when starting it.
Well at $390 for a new starter installed with a 3 year warranty But the starter was still clicking.
Tested my battery and it would not charge past 75% and it was 5 years old so I bought a new Battery at $169. Still had the same issue. My alternator meter on the dash never got past 11v so I disconnected the hot wire on the truck while it was running and it shut off. That tells me the alternator was bad. Took it off and had it checked at the parts store and they said it was fine. But that the regulator may be going bad so I spent another $170 for a brand new one. Still had the same issue only charging 11V.
On my positive battery cable are 2 smaller wares with a fuse on them. One goes to the starter and the other goes to the alut. I changed those connectors and now I have 14 v showing.

I took it to a shop to have them figure out what was going on and $720 later I find out it was 2 small connector's that cost me less then a dollar.
At least everything is new, but damn Thatys why I take it in so I don;t have the play the eliminator game trying to figure things out.

 

[Okie]

You can even install a new carb and IT WILL eventually flood again.

As Lone Oak says, get used to shutting off the fuel supply AFTER EACH USE.

You are witnessing why equipment needs a fuel shutoff on a gravity fed fuel supply.
Also a good thing to use a Briggs red fuel filter. (to keep small particles out of the carb) Do not use a Briggs white one, it's too fine for gravity feed. (it's for fuel pump systems)

The needle seat should hold back at least 5 lbs of pressure for several minutes if you want to test it by inverting the carb while testing. Most generally that vitron tip on the needle is the culprit, but you still need to use a MANUAL fuel cut-off.
Using Ethanol fuel is also not a good thing.

 

[sb47]

I think I'll just keep using a clamp on the fuel line. It doesn't cost me anything and it works just like a shut off valve and I don't have the plum anything.

 

[Okie]

You might want to consider at least eventually installing a fuel filter between the carb and the hose clamp pliers you are using. Constantly clamping the fuel hose will eventually cause internal pieces to separate and go towards the carb.
AND will also crack the hose externally.

I use fuel hose clamp pliers also, but they are not intended for repeated use as a fuel shutoff in place of a fuel petcock.

 

[sb47]

You might want to consider at least eventually installing a fuel filter between the carb and the hose clamp pliers you are using. Constantly clamping the fuel hose will eventually cause internal pieces to separate and go towards the carb.
AND will also crack the hose externally.

I use fuel hose clamp pliers also, but they are not intended for repeated use as a fuel shutoff in place of a fuel petcock.

I agree, and I will fix it properly once the wood splitting dies down.

 

[turnkey4099]

I have a Black Diamond splitter. From day one it would flood when not running. I does havea fuel shut off so I learned early on the proper operation. Shut down: Turn fuel off, Turn switch off. Start up - Choke on, switch on, pull twice and it runs. quickly shut off choke and then turn gas on.

I forgot a few days ago to shut the gas off when shutting down. That cost me a couple hours finding proper tools and a quick trip to town for the proper oil and a funnel to get it in those little holes buried way down in there. Miracle of miracles, I actually fourn my 10mm socked to fit the drain plug!!

 

[Okie]

I have a Black Diamond splitter. From day one it would flood when not running. I does havea fuel shut off so I learned early on the proper operation. Shut down: Turn fuel off, Turn switch off. Start up - Choke on, switch on, pull twice and it runs. quickly shut off choke and then turn gas on.

I forgot a few days ago to shut the gas off when shutting down. That cost me a couple hours finding proper tools and a quick trip to town for the proper oil and a funnel to get it in those little holes buried way down in there. Miracle of miracles, I actually fourn my 10mm socked to fit the drain plug!!

What helps to somewhat reduce the chances of not turning off the fuel supply is when shutting it down for awhile is to turn off the fuel supply petcock and do other things and let it run until the carb is dry.

 

[sean donato]

I have to do the same thing with my Subaru Robin on my splitter. Fail to turn the fuel off and your out a quart of oil and half a tank of fuel. Once you get in the habit of turning it off and on it becomes second nature.

 

[Okie]

What is also sad and makes a guy want to kick himself is a quart of oil (fossil fuel) is pushing $10/qt and a gallon of gas is $4-5 so $15 at least and then having to do the labor of changing the oil.

If someone other than the owner operator is not aware of such starts and runs the engine with gas contaminated oil it will usually ruin the engine quite fast.