Log splitter wedge

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How do you change pressure in the valve? Is it in the aluminum looking cover on the valve? I am getting a gauge like you said before I do this. Sorry for all the questions I am new to this.

Thanks Mac
 
Here are a couple examples of the location of the pressure relief screw. These happen to be Prince valves.

Don
 
One other thing a buddy of mine told was that since my hydro tank is below the pump that could be my problem, what do you think? He said it may have a hard time sucking fluid up hill. My pickup is in the bottom of the tank

Thanks Mac
 
I have a knife that is only 6inches tall on mine. I had it at 8 and I broke a brand new I beam. Shoved the knife right off and sheared the top rail intwo.

I built mine in a T fashion and reduced the hieght to 6inches. As you look at it yo can see that when you push a piece of wood through it two pieces come off the bottom leaving the block intact. this way you can rotate the block and finish it down as you please. I even tip the big ones up and let it ride the ram back for the next push.

I have a 5inch ram, 24hp 30plus gpm. 7sec cycle time, doesn't matter what is in it.
 
The main issue I can see with a taller wedge would be if it were a sliding wedge instead of your fixed one. That is that more force is applied above the cyllinder rod because there is more height above it. This will "rock" the sliding assembly back and cause the underside front of slider to dig into the underside of the beam, causing more friction. (My sliding wedge does this waaaay more since adding a slip-on 4-way, with notable wear after about 4 cords with it on).

How tall is your push block, and is it relatively centered where it mounts to the cylinder?
 
I understand totally about that. as my pusher is on the ram when I first built it I ripped it right off the beam. The front of the push block would raise and it just ripped like a zipper.
When I rebuilt it I raised the pin so the ram would be pushing a bit higher on the block. So far after 50 cord or so it looks fine. I did the pushblock without bolts though. It is totally welded. I figure if I need to take it off it will be junk anyway so I just as well build a new one.
 
One other thing a buddy of mine told was that since my hydro tank is below the pump that could be my problem, what do you think? He said it may have a hard time sucking fluid up hill.

This won't reduce your power but it can shorten your pumps life if it has to suck to hard to get its oil. In severe cases the pump mayskip when the oil is cool and you would feel the ram jerking along as the flow from the pump would not be steady. Your pump life would be quite short. A tank that is higher then the pump (gravity feed) is better, and a large diameter suction line is a must.
I too think you have low pressure or pehaps a bad seal on the piston letting the oil escapeto the retun hose.
Ken
 
Well I put a gauge on my splitter and at the end of the stroke the gauge goes to 1700 lbs. . This valve I have does not have an adjustment on it. The brand is Energy valve. Would you guys just buy another valve and if so what?


Thanks Mac
 
Also today when I would get on a tough piece of wood the ram would push the wood into the wedge and I would get 1200lbs of pressure. When it would build this the ram would not push through the wood, just stop. Why is it getting up to 1700-1800 lbs fully extended. Is this the second stage coming in?

Thanks Mac
 
Mac,

The second stage should come in between 600-800 psi so the fact that you are getting to above that means you are getting to the second stage. Besides you would probably stall your motor if it didn't kick down.

Don.
 
You should remove the hose going to the cylinder and cap it or put your guage in it and test the pressure. As it could be bad seals on the cylinder piston letting your pressure escape too. Capping the line would lt yoy test ust the relief pressure.
Ken
 

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