Log to Big for My Bar - Mill Both sides?

[jacksonp]

I have a nice 23 inch diameter walnut log and a slightly inadequate 18 inch bar on a ms360 Pro. It gets about 15.5 inch clearance with the catching teeth still on. I was thinking of removing them. And so I was thinking about milling down one side of the log and then coming back up the otherside to finish the cut. Not ideal and possibly dangerous with the nose buried but just wondering if anyone else has considered it, tried it or would advise against it. Or any other suggestions for getting it cut. Thanks for the input!

 

[excess650]

I removed the bark dogs from my 066BB to maximize useable bar length, so no problem there. As for milling with the bar buried, if you keep the saw on an angle and pull it towards you (noodling on an angle) it will put less stress on your saw.

Have you ever seen a Granberg Mini-mill or one of the rigs that clamps onto the bar?

 

[jacksonp]

I may note have given all the relevant info - I do have an Granberg small mill attachment that I am using. Running down the log length wise. My question is - can I mill down one side cutting my 16 inches, leaving 5 inches or so untouched, and then back up the other side to finish the cut?

 

[excess650]

I may note have given all the relevant info - I do have an Granberg small mill attachment that I am using. Running down the log length wise. My question is - can I mill down one side cutting my 16 inches, leaving 5 inches or so untouched, and then back up the other side to finish the cut?

You should be able to do that, but will have to keep the kerf open with wedges.

 

[Pfin]

I may note have given all the relevant info - I do have an Granberg small mill attachment that I am using. Running down the log length wise. My question is - can I mill down one side cutting my 16 inches, leaving 5 inches or so untouched, and then back up the other side to finish the cut?

Yes you can, but I'm not sure it's recommended. You will end up with overlapping cut... the chain will take some material out of the previous cut. Your boards will need more planing and/or sanding as a result. I have done this with a 24" oak, which inspired me to get a bigger saw and longer bar. I use the same mill attachment. You'll be using all of the available cutting area of your bar so it's pretty slow going. As for safety, make sure you're going at an angle (not directly perpendicular to the log) as to stay away from the kickback area of the bar. I'm a relative newbie at this, so take my recommendations with a grain of salt. Good luck!

 

[jacksonp]

As for safety, make sure you're going at an angle (not directly perpendicular to the log) as to stay away from the kickback area of the bar. I'm a relative newbie at this, so take my recommendations with a grain of salt. Good luck!

Could you explain this method further? How does it make it safer? Is there anyone else who has tried to the this method of milling from both sides? Serious safety issues?

 

[Pfin]

Could you explain this method further? How does it make it safer? Is there anyone else who has tried to the this method of milling from both sides? Serious safety issues?

Sure. Keep the handle side slightly farther along in the cut than the bar tip. Going in with the tip of the bar leading the cut would probably increase the likely-hood of kickback. I made two 3" thick slabs out of the oak I previously mentioned by this method. It worked, but with kerf overlap even when wedging to widen the open side. I had no safety issues to speak of.

 

[SDB777]

I've done it, and using plenty of plastic wedges(just don't over open the cut or you can end up with different angles) and didn't not have any issues(safety).
Would I do it again, don't have too. I enjoy milling so much I ended up get a larger bar for my saw and plenty of loops of ripping chain! I do limit myself to 34" wide slabs though....I find I can't lift them if they get any wider anyway!!!





Scott (it's always the weight) B

 

[jacksonp]

Sweet - Going to try for tomorrow and I will post pics!

 

[BobL]

I've done one cut like that but would not do it again unless I had no other option.

Don't worry too much about finish or getting it straight as the cut becomes the sides of boards that can easily be trimmed up to requirements.

 

[nh-rob]

I have done it before with the small log mill but the result was not real good. I ended up geting flex in the bar causing the cuts not to mach up well. I cut a oversized pine up this spring by just slabing one side freehand. there was a video on here some where of a hawian man cutting all of his lumber that way. It worked out ok for me and I would do that way agian if needed.
Robbie

 

[woodchuck357]

Check out this thread

the method is eaiser than most think. Philippine chainsaw operator
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02QWRo1W4II&feature=youtu.be

 

[nh-rob]

that is the video I was talking about. I however did have lots more protection on when I did it though. Makes for some real nice noodles too.

 

[jacksonp]

As promised some shots of the Walnut. I am assuming it is Black Walnut. It was a lengthy process; I think I need a bigger saw. The cuts were taking forever so i cut the log into 4 inch slabs and lugged and shimmied it up 20 foot grade difference and about 100 ft to the truck. Working hard for these first logs I'll tell ya. But it does feel good adding the walnut to the inventory!

Edit - The two pass method as you mentioned made for some nasty grooves with the nose and as result ruins your flat surface but with these thick slabs I can get them to a mill and make nice match book cut through the center.

 

[Pfin]

Nice work getting it done! Looks like some great slabs. The general consensus on saw size for milling is 70+ cc. Most people here will tell you to go bigger, especially if you're milling thicker hardwood. I now run a 064 (85cc). Anyway, good job making it work with the tools you have!