looking 4 new saw

[ocv5]

im looking for a good saw. im a small person want somthing with all the brake and quik adjustment features. im a little cautious about what saw to by. i have pretty much all avalible(echo stihl,troy built, john deere,0 and so on.
one of my main concerns it that its somthing i can controll. right now i use a 16 inch craftman 2.0. i like the fact that with the craftsman its almost impossible for it to kick back because the cluch will slip if the blade gets stuck. i dont have much experiance using a chain saw but now with a wood stove im going to same my self some cash this year.
Any suggestion anyone has would be great. also do chain saws kick back often.also top handle or rear handle.price is not a big factor if it will last long.
and bar size dosnt matter either

 

[begleytree]

Tophandle saws are made for expierenced in tree use only.
what size saw are you looking for. what kind and size wood do you normally cut?
factor in the cost of a new saw, and you're not going to save any money this year by burning wood. if you take care of your saw, then you wil save money next year.
-Ralph

 

[ocv5]

well as for size at least a 40cc. wood cuts are 16-18 inches.as for saving cash im already ahead even with purching wood from a local.im located in new york.country type area.a typical gas bill for our house last year from late october till late march. it was roughly 240-300 a month for gas. i have already purched 500 worth of wood. and in the past 2 month a total of 160$for gas plus wood. and i might have burned about 1.5 cords.cords in NY are about 50$ a face.
So as you can see i would save a chunk off money through out the winter in total .
but back to the saw i seen a troy built saw looked a little flimsey build. and huskys are also avalible. but im leaning more twords a still due to reading other posts.seems everone is all for the stihls:jawdrop:
as for wood mostly oaks , ashes, maple ,birch and apple and cherry when found.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Ralph's points are good ones.

All saws are capable of kickback. It's up to the user to avoid situations where kickback occur, namely cutting with the upper quarter radius of your bar's tip. Just don't do it.

Please, please, please don't rely on the saw's safety features and personal protection equipment (PPE) for safety. They are only there to minimize the danger. The daner always persists. Now, I'd advise against buying a saw based on it's "whiz-bang" features. They don't make the saw any more user friendly, and can actually add to the user's complacency.

Before we can recommend a saw we need to know what you're cutting, and how much you'll be doing so. Regardless, skip the top handled saws at all costs. They are in fact designed for climbing professionals, and if you want to find out about kickback real quickly, try one of those. I love mine, but I respect it more than my 660 with a 36" bar.

Welcome to AS.

Jeff

 

[adkranger]

Begley is correct, stay away from top handles. Size & type of hardwoods you're most likely to cut will dictate much of your choice as well as what YOU feel comfortable operating. Go with a reputable saw brand as well as dealer(Stihl, Husky, Dolmar to name a few). Go to a dealer that will listen to your wants, needs and concerns and most of all will let you demo the saws you like.

That said, most likely something in the 50cc range, 16-20" bar, side bar tensioner. Do not go for a bar longer than you need and are comfortable using. Getting bar pinched is not as much of a kick-back hazard as not knowing and controlling where your bar tip is. Saws don't kick back, people put saws in positions to kick back. Low kick back chains(safety chains) can help lower the hazard, but nothing is a replacement for vigilance and experience.

Give some more feedback on what you'll likely be cutting, your experience level and a price range and I'm sure many will pipe in with their recommendations. Good luck.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Ok. Just read your above post. If money is no object, go buy a Stihl 361 with an 18" and go cut wood. It'll last you forever if you take care of it, and it's the best bang for the buck, with the weight as far as moderate "firewood" saws.

Learn how and when to sharpen your chain, keep your filters clean, and learn a bit about proper saw use and you'll be fine.

 

[adkranger]

OK a couple posts slipped in while I was hacking away. So a couple more ?? for you;

1 price range?
2 your experience level?
3 are you going to be falling and collecting your own firewood out of the woods or are getting logs delivered and just bucking them up to split?

And FHCW is right, stay away from gimmicks. You just need a quality saw that functions well and fits your needs.

 

[begleytree]

After reading your post and replies, I agree with the ones who say that the extra 'safety' features may lead you to a sort of stunted development, that is, relying on a feature that may or may not in time become inoperative, instead of learning good safe cutting practices.

That said, I would point you towards a dolmar. a 5100S would be nice, but probably not necessary. perhaps a dolmar 6400 would serve your cutting needs better, since you want to cut, but don't necessarily need to race while doing so. the 6400 is about the same size saw as the 361 mentioned, but built as good and with a better price tag, imo.

Sorry to hear about the rapeing your are taking on your gas bill. the wood burner will definately save you money right from the start!
-Ralph

 

[Sparky_NY]

I am also in New York (Rochester) and around here firewood is going for average $80 a face cord!!! I have cut my own firewood for the last 3 years, pretty much exclusively bucking maple and oak logs already down. I started with a Stihl 032AV with a 20" bar. I had about zip experience. The stihl was a great saw for the purpose. I have just recently moved up to a 044 with a 24" bar because I have gained experience and want to get the job done quicker, especially with the logs over 22".
A 032 can be picked up pretty cheap and usually gets good ratings here in the forum.

Your concern for kickback is a good thing... its not determined by the saw but rather being constantly, extremely alert as to where the upper portion of the tip is at all times. Learn about that danger zone at the tip and pay constant attention to where the tip is when cutting. There are other operating methods that are mean't to reduce the danger of kickback also, such as where you stand in relation to the saw bar and how you hold the saw, again become familiar with these and pay constant attention.

No better place to read up than right here.... the information at this site is endless and top notch.

 

[ocv5]

well first off thanks for the reply guys. most of our dealers out here are all about the cash and will tell you anything to make the sale.price range i figured at least 350 for somthing good.i do a great deal of marine aquarium maintence and set up so i know first hand that you get what you pay for.
wood typs will be ash , maple,birch, oaks, and some fruit like apple and cherry. ther is also a lot of willow and fir. but ill try not to burn much of that. ash is the main wood we harvest. there everywere.
As for felling a tree its all open field with trees and i will have some help on that end of the wood.
my experiance is mainly electric and a little 2.0 craftsman for smaller fire wood.cutting trees that have been felled are my main purpose for the saw.
i do clearly understand that the tip of the saw is the most important thing when operating a chainsawalso knowing whats going on help alot
Also no top handle saws.
and when i meant bells and whistles. i mainly am looking for chain brake and a tip guard.
dolmar is the only dealer that im not able to locate locally
im thinking a 18 -20 inch saw is all ill ever need

 

[ocv5]

sparky . i agree. i have been doing nothing but reserch for weeks before even posting. im located in sanborn. about 1.5hrs away.but all my wood is harvested from franklinville. latley we have had decent weather but the bad is comming soon.i also am away that you never stand directly behind the blade. and keep your left forarm locked strait.

 

[Sparky_NY]

well first off thanks for the reply guys. most of our dealers out here are all about the cash and will tell you anything to make the sale.price range i figured at least 350 for somthing good.i do a great deal of marine aquarium maintence and set up so i know first hand that you get what you pay for.
wood typs will be ash , maple,birch, oaks, and some fruit like apple and cherry. ther is also a lot of willow and fir. but ill try not to burn much of that. ash is the main wood we harvest. there everywere.
As for felling a tree its all open field with trees and i will have some help on that end of the wood.
my experiance is mainly electric and a little 2.0 craftsman for smaller fire wood.cutting trees that have been felled are my main purpose for the saw.
i do clearly understand that the tip of the saw is the most important thing when operating a chainsawalso knowing whats going on help alot
Also no top handle saws.
and when i meant bells and whistles. i mainly am looking for chain brake and a tip guard.
dolmar is the only dealer that im not able to locate locally
im thinking a 18 -20 inch saw is all ill ever need

Tip guards are pretty rare now.... Chain brakes are pretty much standard now. Don't leave out considering a good used saw, a pro stihl / husky or similar will last forever with the use we homeowners would give it in cutting our own firewood. These saws are designed for pro's, to use every day, all day.... I used the 032AV stihl, but the 028 is another big favorite for this type of use. I cut / use about 10 face cords a year, heating just with wood, and that is pretty light useage for saws of the pro type.

 

[begleytree]

. and keep your left forarm locked strait.

and keep your thumb wrapped around the top handle, not on top of it.
-Ralph

 

[Sparky_NY]

sparky . i agree. i have been doing nothing but reserch for weeks before even posting. im located in sanborn. about 1.5hrs away.but all my wood is harvested from franklinville. latley we have had decent weather but the bad is comming soon.i also am away that you never stand directly behind the blade. and keep your left forarm locked strait.

Your off to a good start, your reading will help a lot, and as I said... no better place than right here. Anything you want to know about saws, wood, methods, chain, even splitters and woodstoves is right here...

 

[ocv5]

thats about the amount of wood ill be doing. we have a good stihl shop in lockport ill check them out and look in to what they have used. but i think im going to have no choice unless i get it off here or e bay. as far as 2 stroke maintence and rebuild . that i can do myself.i have experiance in 2 stroke motor mainly 4 wheelers and weed eaters
is there a reason why tip guards are rare now.also how about chaps

 

[STIHL-KID]

Just to throw in another safety point.............keep yourself staggered from the saw as you cut. I have seen and heard of people hovering over the bar while cutting. My father told me a story of a woman he works with. That womans brother died from his brand-new Husky kicking back and striking him in the head. That man bled to death before he could get to his CB in his truck. Sad stuff, use extreme caution on where you are in relation to the turning chain. Good Luck!

 

[Sparky_NY]

thats about the amount of wood ill be doing. we have a good stihl shop in lockport ill check them out and look in to what they have used. but i think im going to have no choice unless i get it off here or e bay. as far as 2 stroke maintence and rebuild . that i can do myself.i have experiance in 2 stroke motor mainly 4 wheelers and weed eaters
is there a reason why tip guards are rare now.also how about chaps

Don't know why the tip guards disappeared but I suspect it was because they got in the way too often. I have found that locally the dealers don't get into used saws much and tend to be way overpriced when they do. Ebay is Ok, but there are horror stories. Knowing what I know now.... buying a saw from someone right here is a good way to go... the guys here tend to be honest, helpfull and reasonable... Real good deals turn up here often...

 

[begleytree]

thats about the amount of wood ill be doing. we have a good stihl shop in lockport ill check them out and look in to what they have used. but i think im going to have no choice unless i get it off here or e bay. as far as 2 stroke maintence and rebuild . that i can do myself.i have experiance in 2 stroke motor mainly 4 wheelers and weed eaters
is there a reason why tip guards are rare now.also how about chaps

Well, if you feel good about handeling your own maintence, the makita 6401 is the same saw as the dolmar 6400, except its a nice pretty blue! available from most home depots and fastenall stores.

perhaps instead of using the tip guard, try using a (slower cutting) anti or highly reduced kickback chain until you are more comfortable with the saw?
-Ralph

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

is there a reason why tip guards are rare now.also how about chaps

They're not rare, but you won't find them on any Husky, Stihl or Dolmar. Craftsman, yes. They're an idiot-proof gizmo for kickback protection. In my honest opinion, if you have to rely on one of those for safety, you've got no business running a saw.

Chaps? Try a search on this site. It's been talked about at length. Do a search for "PPE" and "chaps."

Jeff

 

[begleytree]

.. buying a saw from someone right here is a good way to go... the guys here tend to be honest, helpfull and reasonable... Real good deals turn up here often...

yup, like this one.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=25480&highlight=365
-Ralph