Looking for the right chainsaw

[fodster]

I'm contemplating a new chainsaw. My poor poulan pro farm hand (20") just isn't cutting it anymore (pathetic pun, I know... my apologies).

Anyway, after some thoughtful research I'm considering the Husky 359. I wasn't happy with the reviews I read up on the 455 and 460 seems to be to new to much data on it, though the additional power looks to be a plus over the 455. I think I'll get substantially amount more service out of the magnesium body on the 359 than I would out of the plastic body on the 455/460 (I'd share a picture of my current saw, but I'm too ashamed to put it up on the website . After having run over it with my car, melted off the kickback bar and other general abuse its amazing it even cranks. It actually did a nice job when I ran a larger chain/bar combo on it, at least until the larger chain destroyed the drive mechanism. I've considered the Stihls, but the price point is higher for a similar saw and the reviews on the huskys seem as good.

I'm cutting about 3+ cord a year (not much I know, but my house is fairly tight and that seems to run me the winter), anywhere from a 10" to 38" diameter trees (mostly oak, northern red and chestnut... lots of chestnut). Only rarely to I actually fell trees, most are pre-fallen.

Thoughts?

 

[WRW]

The 359 is a fine saw, but if you don't take better care of it, it won't last any longer than the Poulan.

 

[Timberhauler]

I just bought a Husky 357....That's one of my favorite saws

 

[fodster]

Too true.

I felt sick about the backup incident... we'll attribute that to multi-tasking with one task too many.

Running to big a bar/chain was plain ignorance, but it performed soooo much better with the bigger bar/chain combo. I was greatly disappointed when I got to the root cause of the problem. While the HP was a little weak, I'd love to get a bigger sprocket and run that combo. It greatly out performed the std chain/bar combo.

As for the kick back bar, it could be a design flaw, since the exhaust from the saw is what melted it, or it could be my saw was running hotter than designed. I have some felled locust and that definitely taxes the poor poulan. It could potentially be a stoppage in the oil release chamber, though it seems to run through the appropriate amount of oil when cutting. Not having the kickback bar operational is a safety concern.

Of late, the saw only bites on an angle. I keep the teeth sharp, using a hand file after every tank or every other tank of gas. I need to try a replacement chain, but the saw, even under optimal conditions takes a long time to cut through the bigger timber I have down. I would rather work hard at the splitting and have a better performing saw.

 

[WRW]

I understand. If it were for more than just 3-4 cords/year, I would recommend 70cc and up. You have a good dealer in your area?

 

[fodster]

I live in Asheville. I saw Bob Lawerence Lawnmower shop. I was going to stop by and see what they had to offer and if it was a reputable shop.

 

[WRW]

If it was me, I'd take the Poulan to some of the dealers to see what repairs would run and how knowledgeable they are. Use that as a basis for the dealer choice.

 

[minkota1]

Get the 359, you'll like it alot, however, it's all about maintenance. keep it in good shape and it will serve you very well!

 

[DGG]

Fodster. I use a 359 on 15 acres of woods. I bought it a couple years ago because I'm not a pro and don't feel the need for a $800 saw for the occasional uses I put one to. I cut several cords a year and do some pruning and cleanup work with it.

So far it has been a pretty good saw. It has an 18" bar, a sharp chain (My personal opinion is that most important part of any saw is having a "sharp" chain). It just starts, runs, and makes piles of chips.

I have used it on a variety of trees and don't notice any difference in cutting speed or ability.

I also have an older Husky 55 Rancher (not the 455) also which is about the same size and feel as the 359 ( I don't know the specs, sorry). The 359 has an adjustable oiler (for the size of the bar) and a compression relief valve and the chain tensioner is a little different. That's about the only difference between the two. I wouldn't say one was better than the other. They both use the same spark plugs, etc.

I would like to try the 357 twin brother to the 359 just to see what the difference is in cutting ability. Folks rave about the 357 but I'm sure the price is somewhat higher.

I agree with the comment about maintenance. It isn't hard to do and really makes living with anything 2 cycle much easier. When I'm not planning on using my saws I drain them, pull the spark plug and spray in a little oil. Also it is amazing how well a saw runs if you go crazy and spend $2.00 for a new spark plug once a year. I use fresh gas, good oil, and run through a little routine every time before I crank the puppy up to be sure everything is where it should be, and tight. Then I wait a couple minutes before starting cutting to let the saw mellow out and warm up a bit. I'm not sure that this is all necessary but it hasn't hurt my saw use any and it is so easy I figure, "why not". Better safe than sorry.

 

[SawTroll]

.... It actually did a nice job when I ran a larger chain/bar combo on it, at least until the larger chain destroyed the drive mechanism. ....

Pretty odd, tell us more......

 

[cuttinscott]

I live in Asheville. I saw Bob Lawerence Lawnmower shop. I was going to stop by and see what they had to offer and if it was a reputable shop.

Hey fodster, If you stop by Bob Lawerence's Shop say hi from Scott up here in NY. He is also a Ventrac Dealer I see at our sales meetings.. Hes a Good Guy..

 

[fodster]

I agree with the comment about maintenance. It isn't hard to do and really makes living with anything 2 cycle much easier. When I'm not planning on using my saws I drain them, pull the spark plug and spray in a little oil. Also it is amazing how well a saw runs if you go crazy and spend $2.00 for a new spark plug once a year. I use fresh gas, good oil, and run through a little routine every time before I crank the puppy up to be sure everything is where it should be, and tight. Then I wait a couple minutes before starting cutting to let the saw mellow out and warm up a bit. I'm not sure that this is all necessary but it hasn't hurt my saw use any and it is so easy I figure, "why not". Better safe than sorry.

Great advice. Thanks!

 

[fodster]

Pretty odd, tell us more......

I bought an oregon bar (still 20") to run a large chain. It cut great, spit out piles of chips. Unfortunately, the teeth on the chain didn't line up with the teeth on the drive cog and it chewed up the cog. If I could find a drive cog to run the larger chain... that would be cool. I looked in some of the online catalogs, but didn't see anything that even looked like it would fit.

 

[Hired Gun]

The 359 is a fine saw but it may not be enough for the big sizes you mentioned if you cut that stuff alot (70cc+ would be much better suited). With that in mind It is every bit pro quality. In fact the money you save on the 359 vs the others 357/361 may be enough to resurrect the old Poulan. You could have a brand new saw and a backup. Just don't backup on it again :blush:

 

[parrisw]

anywhere from a 10" to 38" diameter trees

There is your answer right there. If your cutting hardwood in 38" dia, a
359cc just wont cut it in my opinion. This is why I have a 394xp33" and a
345-e 18", although I have cut a 40" tree with a 20" bar, but it was a total waste of time IMHO, so I bought a bigger saw.

You really need a 70cc + size saw, and also a 50cc saw too

 

[RiverRat2]

Drive cog thing!!!!

The 359 is a fine saw but it may not be enough for the big sizes you mentioned if you cut that stuff alot (70cc+ would be much better suited). With that in mind It is every bit pro quality. In fact the money you save on the 359 vs the others 357/361 may be enough to resurrect the old Poulan. You could have a brand new saw and a backup. Just don't backup on it again :blush:

most OEM manuals will tell you whenever you change the chain you need to be changing the drive cog thing,,,, I fact,,,, it was probably trashed before you changed to the 20" bar,,,, you are supposed to keep and eye on that :monkey:

 

[fodster]

most OEM manuals will tell you whenever you change the chain you need to be changing the drive cog thing,,,, I fact,,,, it was probably trashed before you changed to the 20" bar,,,, you are supposed to keep and eye on that :monkey:

No, no. I took it to a local shade tree mechanic and he just fixed it. I trashed the lower quality replacement cog shortly after, still running the same big bar/chain combo that and when I went to fix it myself, I understood what had happened.

 

[TimberPig]

In other words, you rammed a larger pitch chain onto a smaller pitch sprocket, and when the mismatch in pitch took it's toll, the incorrectly matched parts wore each other out? It sounds like you are hard on equipment and lacking on the maintenance side of things as well. Unless you plan on learning and practicing proper maintenance, I wouldn't spend too much on a replacement. If you follow the same practices, it will soon die an early death too.

As to what size is required to replace it, that depends upon the distribution of that 10-38" tree size. If you rarely encounter trees over ~24", you will be fine with a saw like a 359, 357 or 361. If you frequently encounter trees from~28" to your 38" size, you need a lot more saw, more in the range of an 066/660 or a 394/395. I would tend to believe you rarely see the big sticks, and more often work on stuff in the smaller sizes. The 60cc class saws can cut up a 40" hardwood, but they won't be fast at it, and won't want to do it often. A 70-80 cc saw, like an 044/440, 372, 575, or 7900 would handle the occasional big stick better, without being as heavy or costly as an 066/660 or a 394/395.

Any of these saws, especially the larger ones are alot more saw to handle and require more care than your Poulan to get used to. They can and will bite you if you aren't careful. Take it easy until you are used to your new aquisition, no one wants to see you hurt yourself over 3 cords of wood a year.

 

[parrisw]

"TimberPig"

Very well put, I agree about the big saws and being very careful, I had my 394 kick back a couple times, and yes they can kick very hard escicially with a long bar. I only burn about 3.5-4cords of wood a year how ever, I cut and split much more then that, I cut lots to help out other people, my parents and inlaws. I probably cut 10 cords last year with a friend, and handled some BIG wood(40"across), this is why I bought a 394xp. Its allot of saw, but I love it.

 

[fodster]

"TimberPig"

Very well put, I agree about the big saws and being very careful, I had my 394 kick back a couple times, and yes they can kick very hard escicially with a long bar. I only burn about 3.5-4cords of wood a year how ever, I cut and split much more then that, I cut lots to help out other people, my parents and inlaws. I probably cut 10 cords last year with a friend, and handled some BIG wood(40"across), this is why I bought a 394xp. Its allot of saw, but I love it.

Many thanks for the advice and I wholly agree with the words of caution, regardless of size of saw - the device is just plain scary, an extremly sharp chain spinning upwards of 13000+ RPM, that can kick back unexpectely, operating within mere feet of you - not too mention the variables of timber shifting, site prep, etc. It's amazing chainsaws are still legal or that OSHA hasn't legistated full body armour and licensure to operate (don't mention this too loudly, or they may get ideas ;-).

With regards to the saw maintenance, experience is an excellent teacher and I can say that I've learned a fair bit from my hands on experiences. Excepting the backover incident, we'll chalk up the remaining issues to ignorance rather than stupidity (well, at least I will, you may have your opinions ;-). The mere fact that I'm posting indicates a more austere approach.

I took the Poulan in and had the bar dressed (there was a nice lip along the edge of the chain path). I'm hopeful that this will resolve the issues I was having.

I'll probably pull the trigger on the 359... and get a smaller bar for the Poulan.

So the next question is in store, internet, or used? (take home prices, respectively $535 - $440 - $300)

Thanks again for the help.