Low buck drawknife I

[Ted J]

Good point -
If you have no ashes here's an alternative. At home if I have a number of items to anneal I use a gas BBQ flame, around which I build a small closed chamber out of fire bricks and a couple of bits of angle iron to support the steel. After heating to cherry red I kill the flame and let the whole thing cool down over a few hours. Try to do it in still air if possible.

At work we have electric furnaces and it can be programmed to perform a controlled cool down overnight.

Here is an article with a chart near the bottom on the temps used for different hardness depending on the type of tools.

http://chestofbooks.com/architecture/Building-Construction-3-3/Hardening-And-Tempering-Of-Steel.html

Ted

 

[820wards]

BobL
There are 3 basic heat treatment processes. Hardening (name says it all) and Tempering (reduces hardness) and Annealing (reduces the hardness right back to as soft as the steel can be)



Bob,

Thanks for this info. I've been thinking of making a curved knife for hollowing bowls and such. I'll have to make the curve once I get the metal to a temp I can wrap it around a cylinder and get the curve shape I want. Thanks again.

jerry-

 

[TraditionalTool]

Would I use wood ashes or bone ash like case hardening on firearms?

Sure, any type of ash provides insulation, which in turn extend the cooling properties as it keeps the air from getting to it.

I have always used coal ashes. Bone ashes would tend to smell, at least bone has a foul odor when it burns. If you have ever burned a tang into a antler, it has the same smell.

The method I used was taught to me by my neighbor who shoes horses and does blacksmithing. All I know is that it worked for me and my knife is still sharp after a lot of use.

The "still sharp" part comes from tempering it. That is done by quenching in some type of oil, any type of old transmission oil, or car oil will work. In that case quench after it's cherry red. In the case of annealing, just stick the cherry red metal in the ashes and leave it for a few hours if possible.

Bob, your access to an electric oven would be the optimum method of getting the metal to a specific temp for tempering. I'll bet your tools stay rea sharp for a long time?

Gas forge is better as it cools slowly, and acts similar to the electric oven which Bob mentioned. The forge takes quite a while to cool down as the insulation retains the heat inside. works nicely, no ashes needed.

This is what I use if I'm not annealing with a coal forge.

 

[NEP]

Here is my 2 homemade draw knives:

The top one is made from a car spring, the handles are welded and the blade is hardened.

The green one is made from a silage cutter blade and the handles are welded. It was already hardened.

 

[WesternSaw]

Handles

I have never used any kind of a draw knife, although I have a small one that I will post up eventually.Now the way I see the handles coming straight off the blades for the user to hang on to, it makes me think ergonomically, that they would be better if the came out of the blade and then made an upswing,not necessarily a 90 degree angle, but some sort of an angle.Am I way out to lunch on this?
Lawrence

 

[TraditionalTool]

I have never used any kind of a draw knife, although I have a small one that I will post up eventually.Now the way I see the handles coming straight off the blades for the user to hang on to, it makes me think ergonomically, that they would be better if the came out of the blade and then made an upswing,not necessarily a 90 degree angle, but some sort of an angle.Am I way out to lunch on this?
Lawrence

There are two schools of though, bevel up and bevel down. There is a point where you can use the blade either way, and that is useful.

Also consider that although it is called a drawknife, you can push them as well.

Like all tools, it's good to have a few different ones to understand and know what you prefer. You should use your some and you'll probably gain more understanding of the handles.

I will also add that I use a pattern maker's vise (Emmert clone) when I drawknife/shave, but having a shaving horse is the best. Worth spending the time to build if you plan to use a drawknife some, unless your planning to peel logs, that's another beast in itself.

 

[WesternSaw]

Drawknife

Explanation appreciated!
Lawrence

 

[Hillbilly3995]

Pete, if the point of work, (cut) is in front of your wrists, as you pull it it will be very difficult to use. the standard design puts the cut between and or behind the wrists so you can control the tool. Think of it as pushing or pulling a chain.