Low vibration technique for dead spar

[scrubbytreeTEX]

I have a very dead 60' Pecan, forest growth, most of the tree is a leaning spar. I will be tied in from two surrounding Pecans, one TIP is higher, so thats good. The spar will be cut and chuck, only a couple branches need to be rigged up top (hanging over neighbors shed) Bottom of the spar is 24". Top of spar under first crotch is 19". I run a 20" bar on MS362 for the bigger spar sections.

My question is, I'm trying to really reduce the vibration and movement of the spar as much as possible. The last time I had this situation, I got a lot of shake as I pushed pieces off, and being lanyarded into that kinda sketched me out. As I'm shoving off the logs, What are your opinions on the best cut methods in this situation?

 

[jefflovstrom]

Welcome Scrubby,, un-hook your lanyard before the last cut.
Jeff

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

Maybe you can guy the pecan either to a lower point on the trees you have TIPs in, other trees opposite the lean or a truck. There have been trees ready to snap off whole, I guyed them and climbed them no problem. If it takes an hour to get it strung up so it won't crumble or fall its an hour well spent though it should take about 10 minutes to set a guy line or two.


Still, maybe not want to have yer lanyard around it but I would want the stability.

 

[scrubbytreeTEX]

Yes, but I'll be tied in from behind and above/behind so that won't work.

I want to hear from those who blocked down a lot of wood; the main options would be a normal wedge face cut/back cut, a straight cut/straight cut followed with a little muscle, and...what am I missing? I've thought about testing just one straight cut all the way through followed by a push, but I'm sure the bar will get pinched upon exiting, and the log will have to be rolled off the bar and teeth which could be bad and requires one hand to remain on the saw. I haven't tried that with heavy wood before. Am I missing any ideas here?

 

[scrubbytreeTEX]

Maybe you can guy the pecan either to a lower point on the trees you have TIPs in, other trees opposite the lean or a truck. There have been trees ready to snap off whole, I guyed them and climbed them no problem. If it takes an hour to get it strung up so it won't crumble or fall its an hour well spent though it should take about 10 minutes to set a guy line or two.


Still, maybe not want to have yer lanyard around it but I would want the stability.

I like this, so you cold in theory guy it to the ground or any other trees around. That would probably reduce the shake factor.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

If you have two tips, with a lanyard you're the guy, literally. Your tips will stabilize it. Just block it down. Just don't use a wire core so you can cut out if it t does fail for some reason..

 

[Zale]

Skip the lanyard if you can and guy the tree as the good Doctor suggested.

 

[NCTREE]

how about ratchet strapping some 2x4s to the trunk to stabilize it

 

[sgreanbeans]

Snap cut little pieces and toss off. No torque applied to the spar. May take a bit longer, but it wont rock the bottom around, which I am guessing u are trying to avoid. Use brush to create crash pad/tank trap to capture pieces at base.

 

[Brendon Phillips]

Just watch where you'll go if you take a swing. Watch out for broken branches that want to impale you and any other hazard. I don't know how you're rigging your TIPs, but make sure you can get down easily by yourself or someone else in case you're injured. I've had one of my guys belay me before with a dynamic climbing line and a figure eight in case I had to bail out.

Don't overthink the cuts. Guy it up, try not to wiggle the wood while you're climbing, don't use a wire core lanyard as said above, and don't tie in to the really weak stuff.

 

[scrubbytreeTEX]

TIP's should swing me into a good zone if I had to bail completely.

Good takeaways
1. Guy the tree.
2. No wire core.
3. Small pieces that can be picked up and thrown.
4. Ratchet straps (I have used that trick before, and will here)
5. Dont shake the tree.
6. Be ready to bail.

Thanks! Ill let you know how it goes.

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

Yer blocking wood off this thing? Oh, well, I am not much of blocker of wood unless I really have to even on a sound tree, I look to fell trunks instead or devise a rigging system to put the thing on the ground. That can be sketchy but it puts you on the ground cutting instead of in the tree.

If I had to block in that scenario I would use a tag line to for the groundies to pull the chunks ( no matter how big or small) while I sat prepared to die. If the lean of the tree is going to just make each chunk go by itself then I would use a precise snap -cut to hold the chunk until I was ready.

With a guy line you can move it down the trunk as you work.

 

[Brendon Phillips]

TIP's should swing me into a good zone if I had to bail completely.

Good takeaways
1. Guy the tree.
2. No wire core.
3. Small pieces that can be picked up and thrown.
4. Ratchet straps (I have used that trick before, and will here)
5. Dont shake the tree.
6. Be ready to bail.

Thanks! Ill let you know how it goes.

Take some pictures too!

Oh, and don't wiggle your wood to much. If you shake it more than twice you're playing with it.

 

[jefflovstrom]

Just do it!
Jeff

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Yer blocking wood off this thing? Oh, well, I am not much of blocker of wood unless I really have to even on a sound tree, I look to fell trunks instead or devise a rigging system to put the thing on the ground. That can be sketchy but it puts you on the ground cutting instead of in the tree.

If I had to block in that scenario I would use a tag line to for the groundies to pull the chunks ( no matter how big or small) while I sat prepared to die. If the lean of the tree is going to just make each chunk go by itself then I would use a precise snap -cut to hold the chunk until I was ready.

With a guy line you can move it down the trunk as you work.

I'm the opposite. I'd much rather block than rig. It's just so much faster.

 

[no tree to big]

if u can tie in behind and above can u rig off of one of those points?

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Looking back to the original post, you were asking about cuts. Small blocks with snap cuts will be the most vibration free.

 

[Brendon Phillips]

How'd it turn out?

 

[scrubbytreeTEX]

Client rescheduled for this coming Friday.

 

[woodchuck357]

One of the very useful tricks I have learned from this forum is to use solid fiberglass rods a little smaller in diameter than the saw kerf and about two feet long. I stick them into the kerf as I cut thru the stem all the way from one side. I use up to three of them in a cut. After the cut is finished the block rolls on the rods to slide off. The rods are tied to my belt with about three feet of small string with swivels on the ends.
Some times I stick a wedge in behind the saw as soon as possible, stop cutting just before coming out the other side, pound the wedge in a ways, slip the rods in then finish the cut. Wiggle the wedge out then push the block off.
With really heavy blocks making the cut angled down to the way you want it to go makes the push easier.