Mac 10-10 auto clutch problem

[auger7]

Ok. I just subscribed to this forum because I am stubborn and refuse to give up on this saw. This McCulloch Mac 10-10 was my dad's and I insisted on acquiring it when he downsized and moved to Florida. The saw has been very reliable, very torquey, and demands respect. Unfortunately it was run low on bar oil and the sprocket was trashed. Ok, I feel bad enough about this. My fault. Enough said. I WILL fix this! However...I'll be damned if I can get the clutch off. I know it is reverse thread. I used the rope trick. I have used penetrating oil, hammer taps, and a torch however cranking on this nut only made it worse by shattering the clutch. My last ditch effort was to take saw to my local auto shop where they cranked on it with their impact wrench to no avail. I would appreciate any input on how I can get this clutch nut off. I really want this saw back in working order...God forbid I have to buy a Stihl replacement!!! Thank you.

 

[farmguywithasaw]

It’s not necessarily left hand thread try it the other way looks like you tightens it until the clutch snapped

 

[farmguywithasaw]

How long did you run it without bar oil

 

[lostone]

If the sprocket and the clutch are toast anyway why nut just take a cutoff tool and cut away the rim, remove whats left of the clutch and then using a dremel tool put a cut in the nut almost to the threads and split the nut and get it off. Get another sprocket/clutch and nut.

If you have access to a high quality nut splitter you could just split the nut how it is.

 

[2broke2ride]

Stop before you break the crank!!!! That nut is absolutely not reverse thread! It comes off the normal way. Lefty loosy righty tighty.
A clutch should be easy to find, many models use the same one. Pretty sure oregon still makes a rim drive setup for it.
Check out the Mac sticky and the official 10-10 sticky for more than you will ever need to know about these saws.
I own 2 black top 10-10s, they are one of my favorite firewood saws.

 

[LegDeLimber]

Always take a good close look at the end of the shaft and the "nut" before pounding on it.
You can normally see a bit of the threads or the slope into the nut and tell which way the threads lead.

IF need be, grab a camera and take some pics then load them onto a decent sized screen and look it over.
Got to be in focus and on the exact spot/part in question or it's just wasting time.