The beast was runnin with a lousy idle. I looked at the fuel and it was murky, flushed the gas by dumping it out and heard a thud when it went upside down. What the hell was that? It was another mud hornet nest about the size of a plum in the tank! I forgot I received one saw without a gas cap. I guess the flying mason bastards not only got to the muffler but in the tank too. Oh well thank the mac gods for the stout fuel filters these old saws came with. I flushed the tank, rebuilt the carb ghetto style, I.E. no new parts just cleaning, and replaced the petrified fuel line. She runs a little better but still no decent idle without stalling eventually. The idle screw is set too high already. Is there adjustment in the rich/lean screws? Are the ancient diaphragms in the tilly just plain tired? Could I have a crank seal/vacuum leak? How does a pro troubleshoot a saw scientifically without just changing parts hoping something works??
Mac D 44 the saga continues.....
- Thread starter GOBRDGO
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ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Gday Jared,
Mate the fun is just starting maybe the carby might need a few new bits like diaphrams or the metering plate diaphram replaced now these bits are pretty hard to get, just ask me i have been shopping ebay for about six months and have found a couple for my saws which i'll be checking out shortly.
If you have a pressure tester then by all means test the powerhead and the carby.
5-7 lb's max.
Mc Bob.
Mate the fun is just starting maybe the carby might need a few new bits like diaphrams or the metering plate diaphram replaced now these bits are pretty hard to get, just ask me i have been shopping ebay for about six months and have found a couple for my saws which i'll be checking out shortly.
If you have a pressure tester then by all means test the powerhead and the carby.
5-7 lb's max.
Mc Bob.
Lawn Masters
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'd rebuild the carb first, the gaskets may very well be dried and getting too old to work right. then set the H&L screws 1.5 turns out from lightly, and I must stress lightly seated. That might help some, or a lot.
I don't know how to go about pressure testing Bob? Do you pump air down the spark plug at TDC? It's a new trick to me. I think Dean at washington hot saws said he can get me a rebuild kit, it's a tilly hl 19B.
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Mixture screws are normally set between 1 to 1 1/4 turns from lightly seated.
As regards pressure testing you need to remove bothe the carb and muffler make small steel plates to take their place that blocks off both passages, now you need a pressure gauge and the adapter that screws into the spark plus hole, the saw pumped to 5 to 7 lb's should hold with a slow blead down over several minutes, thereby confirming that the seals and gaskets are holding air presssure, you can run a little kero or diesel around suspected leakages to conformation.
Mc Bob.
As regards pressure testing you need to remove bothe the carb and muffler make small steel plates to take their place that blocks off both passages, now you need a pressure gauge and the adapter that screws into the spark plus hole, the saw pumped to 5 to 7 lb's should hold with a slow blead down over several minutes, thereby confirming that the seals and gaskets are holding air presssure, you can run a little kero or diesel around suspected leakages to conformation.
Mc Bob.
shtoink
ArboristSite Member
If you got a Tilly HL carb, then you can get a rebuilt kit for about $20. The $20 kit is the one that comes with new springs, gaskets, wlech plugs, and everything else you need. Luckily Tillotson still makes this line of carbs ans subsiquently makes kits for 'em. That was part of the silver lining to my accident with the original Mac carb it came with.
shtoink
ArboristSite Member
Yeah, but the recoill spring isn't a big deal either. Mine was pretty ugly so I had to disassemble and clean it anyway. I didn't have nearly as much trouble putting it back together as I was expecting.
That's cool. I need a kit and psi test. She's not running worth a crap anymore. I'm bummed I need to split the tank to clean it out properly. It's the only way to do it right. I don't want to have to make that gasket.
16:1mix
Addicted to ArboristSite
shtoink said:
Thats great news! Any tips as to who to contact for Tilly kits? I've got a series "ME" that I wish to re kit.
Thanks
dave
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Started stripping my D-44 last night what a mess inside its all white and fuzzy must have been full of water at one time or another but if i can get it apart then the crank will help in the rebuild of the Super 44 as the Super 44 has a big chunk missing from the key slot where the clutch has come lose and not spun but chattered away at the slot.
The D-44 turns but it will be needing a good soaking to rally free up. The Super 44 is missing it's carby but i feel the one off the D-44 will fit and get it running if not i have other carbs that might just get it going.
This is the first time for me to work on this model Mc and it's the fuel tank that is the trap you have to split it to get the tank off the engine.
Mc Bob will be a little wiser after the experiance on this one.
The D-44 turns but it will be needing a good soaking to rally free up. The Super 44 is missing it's carby but i feel the one off the D-44 will fit and get it running if not i have other carbs that might just get it going.
This is the first time for me to work on this model Mc and it's the fuel tank that is the trap you have to split it to get the tank off the engine.
Mc Bob will be a little wiser after the experiance on this one.
Dean at [email protected] (Washington Hot Saws on this site) has carb kits for tillys and rings for the super 44. Don't buy all his stuff because he's my top secret parts source. 
. While I'm at it BOB, a gent on the east coast thru Randy's on ebay also named Bob has a NOS clutch with pawls for the super 44 for 30 something bucks. I can get his number if I really look for you. If not Randy has it. My super 44 crank was roached also in the crank key area. Are we havin fun yet?
. While I'm at it BOB, a gent on the east coast thru Randy's on ebay also named Bob has a NOS clutch with pawls for the super 44 for 30 something bucks. I can get his number if I really look for you. If not Randy has it. My super 44 crank was roached also in the crank key area. Are we havin fun yet?
Al Smith
Addicted to ArboristSite
A little tid bit of info.Rings for a 44,2" bore,#51747.Super 44 and Super 44A,2 1/8 " bore #55123,Now the good news,The larger bore was used on a whole bunch of engines,a lot of the "1" series,250,650 kart engines Mc 5,10,15 and 49,and should be around in farly high numbers,still.There is a gent in Ill or Wisc.,I think,that periodicaly has an assortment of parts on e-bay,with the pictures as well as the parts numbers.This is where I found my "cherry" SP 105.Thinking out loud,so to speak,I wonder if lapping the clutch/crank would solve the keyway problem?
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
I wonder if the cranks are the same suppose not.
Mc Bob
Mc Bob
shtoink
ArboristSite Member
Lapping is the process of polishing something very smooth with a series of progressively finer grades of sandpaper. Normally silicon carbide wet/dry paper is used. Using water or oil as a lubricant and to keep the paper from clogging. You can get mirror finishes if you are patient and do it right.
If I missed anything, feel free to correct me.
If I missed anything, feel free to correct me.
