Makita 6100 muffler gets red hot.

[Brushwacker]

Anyone know the reason? I adjusted the carb richer and it gets so hot it starts doughty tree trunks on fire in spite it has a screen in it. Is it maybe a cat muffler that causes it or what? Was thinking of doing a muffler mod if it isn't much more then making some holes bigger?
Anyway I don't want a muffler that starts fires.

 

[TRTermite]

Anyone know the reason? I adjusted the carb richer and it gets so hot it starts doughty tree trunks on fire in spite it has a screen in it. Is it maybe a cat muffler that causes it or what? Was thinking of doing a muffler mod if it isn't much more then making some holes bigger?
Anyway I don't want a muffler that starts fires.

Something is NOT right. I had a Stihl 034 super doing that and running really great. I quit using it and pulled the muffler and saw aluminum transfer starting from the piston. I had put in new seals and got to learn about tuning and four stroking out of the cut. Saved the piston by sanding the skirts with some 1500 grit and new cabers. Has been a while but I will never forget how good it was running.

 

[Brushwacker]

This doesn't feel like it's running lean at all. If its not biting hard in the cut it sounds like 4 stroking or burbling. I normally adjust them where they keep the rpms up better then that. I like the 4 stroking sound to go away soon into the cut. It feels like a dog until its well into the wood. Felt like my 550xp was cutting faster in 15in oak.
Anybody know is there a non cat muffler available for this that likely could solve the problem?

 

[cookies]

catalyst converters get hot burning off unspent fuel, the more unburnt fuel they absorb the hotter they get. would suspect there being one in that muffler. I would pull it and look inside and check the piston.

 

[Brushwacker]

catalyst converters get hot burning off unspent fuel, the more unburnt fuel they absorb the hotter they get. would suspect there being one in that muffler. I would pull it and look inside and check the piston.

Interesting, I perceived they burned up unclean particals in the exhaust but hadn't thought about adding to it by running it richer. I don't expect its getting hotter then normal in the combustion chamber, but i will check for signs and go the other way If not. Sounds like I need to lean it out as much as I can without over heating it in that direction.
I wander if different 2 cycle oil or a different fuel-oil ratio would work better in the cat muffler. I am using opti, mixing it at or near 50 to 1.

 

[cookies]

Interesting, I perceived they burned up unclean particals in the exhaust but hadn't thought about adding to it by running it richer. I don't expect its getting hotter then normal in the combustion chamber, but i will check for signs and go the other way If not. Sounds like I need to lean it out as much as I can without over heating it in that direction.
I wander if different 2 cycle oil or a different fuel-oil ratio would work better in the cat muffler. I am using opti, mixing it at or near 50 to 1.

The cat will get far far hotter than stoichiometric combustion temperatures. I would pull the muffler and look for it having catalitic materials inside if found I would remove them and adjust fuel ratios until im happy not the cat. Oil blowby is the leading reason of oem catalitic converters failing aftermarket uses far less precious metals in theirs resulting in a far shorter life span.

 

[Karrl]

My 6100 didn’t have a cat or a slr, it did have a restrictor tube that went into the exhaust port. I wouldn’t recommend removing the restrictor tube. It didn’t make my saw run any better and it was a lot of work uncrimping and recrimping the thing. I’ve heard guys say that unless a 6100 is ported it doesn’t benefit from a muffler mod.

That doesn’t really solve your problem but I would suggest pulling the muffler and checking how it looks in there. My 6100 feels hotter than my other saws but never red hot.

 

[thenne1713]

Anyone know the reason? I adjusted the carb richer and it gets so hot it starts doughty tree trunks on fire in spite it has a screen in it. Is it maybe a cat muffler that causes it or what? Was thinking of doing a muffler mod if it isn't much more then making some holes bigger?
Anyway I don't want a muffler that starts fires.

Flooding= unburned gas flows into hot muffler and ignites; catalytic does similar. Trying leaning and see if it cools?

 

[Gabriel1982]

My 6100 didn’t have a cat or a slr, it did have a restrictor tube that went into the exhaust port. I wouldn’t recommend removing the restrictor tube. It didn’t make my saw run any better and it was a lot of work uncrimping and recrimping the thing. I’ve heard guys say that unless a 6100 is ported it doesn’t benefit from a muffler mod.

That doesn’t really solve your problem but I would suggest pulling the muffler and checking how it looks in there. My 6100 feels hotter than my other saws but never red hot.

First impressions of a new Makita EA6100P is a well built quality product. Maybe also well designed?! and that oem muffler looks and sounds good (enough) for me His problems are else where not in muffler. Maybe carburettor settings?!
p.s. in the manual it says user can only play around with the "T" screw(idle adjuster) ,not the other two "H" and "L"...

 

[Brushwacker]

I had lost the original tool to adjust the high speed and finally ordered a set of 10 to get the right tool.
Got it adjusted leaner and I haven't seen the muffler turn red hot as of now running in full light. Significantly less heat at the top handle also.
Recently got a good buy on an 036 pro that needed minor attentions that looks all stock and low hours and had them out together cutting firewood . Power felt very comprible but weight and handling is hands down better to me with the 036 and I like its compactness when stashing it on my truck. The 6100 just is bulkier and more of what i prefer bucking rather then all around limbing , cutting 16inch firewood and felling, and for its structual size and my purposes is more suited as a 24inch bar saw. My thinking when i bought it was as I decline physically a I am 64 and my right shoulder has been far from 100% (but thanks to God considerably better lately) , i was thinking with the easy start it could end up the last higher cc saw i can comfortably start in my older age. I would like to get more power out of it without making it harder to start and not put a ton of money in it. It hasn't been easy obtaining parts for. So far I ended up only eventually finding a new spike at a new price on eBay and finding a non cat muffler has been a negative . Looks like i will end up paying someone to remove mine and weld the muffler back together. Buying and keeping a specific tool for the carb hasn't exactly been convenient either. I don't know of the newer generations of Stihls but the Stihls of my era 1980's to 2010 have been the berries for my all around purposes .

 

[Franny K]

finding a non cat muffler has been a negative

Post 7 says no cat in a 6100. I believe this is correct, It is a reed valve for part of the air getting into the cylinder probably doesn't need a cat. I never have taken my muffler off. The muffler is made of stainless steel which conducts heat less than normal steel.

What did you do for the bucking spike, get the european one? I read somewhere that the dual dogs from a somewhat smaller Makita perhaps 56cc can be made to work.

It is the double D adjusting tool for the high and a screwdriver for the low if I remember correctly.

 

[thenne1713]

Anyone know the reason? I adjusted the carb richer and it gets so hot it starts doughty tree trunks on fire in spite it has a screen in it. Is it maybe a cat muffler that causes it or what? Was thinking of doing a muffler mod if it isn't much more then making some holes bigger?
Anyway I don't want a muffler that starts fires.

YOU are FLOODING AND DUMPING Raw gas into muffler, where it is igniting further, due to muffler temperature. E.g. Friend Had a V8 Years back running bad, found PCV broken in half, (causing LEAN) replaced with new, and exhaust manifold started to glow red WITHIN SECONDS after restart, which Ignited OIL LEAKAGE ON EX MANIFOLD, requiring fire extinguisher. Pulled carb and replaced needle/seat and all good. ADVISE TO Adjust leaner, or repair/replace CARB. Even 2-cycle have needle/seat.

 

[Brushwacker]

I think it's a larger spike same or similar to the larger Makita-Dolmar saws.
So far I am not satisfied with the power to weight for my intended purpose. Other then that, it is nice. Was hoping a different or modded muffler would wake it up.
I didn't realize it was a reed valve engine . I haven't much for experience maintaining the reed part.
.

 

[Brushwacker]

YOU are FLOODING AND DUMPING Raw gas into muffler, where it is igniting..

ADVISE TO Adjust leaner,

That's what i done did and its seemed to work as far as stopping the red glow at least in daylight. Only run a tank through it since I readjusted it.

 

[thenne1713]

That's what i done did and its seemed to work as far as stopping the red glow at least in daylight. Only run a tank through it since I readjusted it.

Go back, find/read/study/ reread proper method for adjusting a carb, and then setting SLIGHTLY RICH so as to NOT score piston/cylinder. It can vary some by MFR/ engine, but you never want too lean, nor too rich.

 

[Brushwacker]

Been there, done that for decades. Seeking slightly rich seems to of caused the problem this time. Something to do with the excess gas burning in the muffler . I don't think I like this muffler and would like to increase power with out putting to much money in the saw is where i am at with it.

 

[thenne1713]

One other thought is the story of the guy w/ new saw, thought bad engine, bogging/dying after a few minutes under load before (finally) finding bar nose sprocket seizing when HOT.

 

[Bubster]

I took the cat out of my 6421. No other muffler mods. I had to adjust it a bit richer after,but nothing major. I agree on the Makita being a bit overweight and "portly". Great saw other than that.