Makita EA4300 (Dolmar PS-420) vs. Makita DCS5121 (Dolmar PS-510)

[FCouperin]

Hello All,

There have been plenty of articles on these saws but I'm hesitant on which to pick between the two for my needs. After reading A LOT on this site (impressive community!) and looking at my options, I've settled that it's gonna be one of these two saws (Makita EA4300 or Makita DCS5121). It's going to be my first saw - I haven't even ever used a chain saw before hence the need for advice (young man here). I'm going to be using it on a 1.5 acre lot to cut 2, maybe 3 cords a year to burn at the cottage. I'll mostly be cutting trees that have already fallen, mostly spruce, maple, birch and some pine. For the most part I should be dealing with trees between 10' and 16' diameter, and rarely a max of 20'.

I was quite decided on the EA4300 since I see that the corresponding Dolmar PS-420 had an impressive following and has a reputation for being very well built. I found out however that my dealer has the DCS5121 for only $25 more. The corresponding PS-510 has seemed to generate a little less enthusiasm though, has aluminium instead of magnesium like the former and is assembled in China instead of Germany like the former. Should I go for the 7 more CCs but 1.3 more lbs nevertheless? Or should I stick with the smaller saw, and buy another 60+ CC one day if I ever feel the need for more saw?

Thanks a lot in advance!

Ben

 

[Poleman]

Ben,

First off...Welcome to AS!!

This is my thoughts and opinions..... The EA4300 has a very good reputation for the way it runs and performs. I have not owned one but I have friends that do and they are highly praised. They say they have a heart of a bigger saw!!

Now I have owned a 510.....it is being compared directly to the 5105 which is an awesome saw in my opinion. That's why I think the 510 is less noted. The 510 does have an aluminum case compared to the 5105's magnesium case.(weight thing here more than anything) I couldn't tell much difference in weight nor am I interested. The 510 does have an open port cylinder compared to closed port....meaning the 5105 will usually make more power with this configuration.(Which it does) The 510 is an ok saw but to come close to a 5105 it needs to be ported to compare....then they run pretty respectable, but still lack the bottom end torque of the 5105.

My recommendations would be get the EA4300(420) but that's me. It is smaller but I think it has more performance. I tried to give you insight on what I think and why....ultimately its what yiu like and what fits you better for your needs.

 

[rburg]

I believe I would choose the smaller model and get a larger size later. I have run a 420 and it is a nice running saw.

 

[FCouperin]

Thanks a lot for your insights, they're most appreciated!! I'll put the order in

 

[rburg]

Let us know how you like it.

 

[7sleeper]

Personally it sounds like you are buying a single all around saw, for that I would choose a 50cc saw!

I own the "old" Dolmar 420 2.7hp model and not the "new" 420sc=421 3hp model. It is a very good saw! But if you encounter larger trees (>20 inch hard wood or >25 inch soft wood) you are going to the limit that I would endure to the little saw. For the price difference I would choose a stronger all around saw, because in your situation weight is totally irrelevant but you require the power of an all around saw which for me the Dolmar 510 provides easily.

7

 

[Red Elm]

The EA4300 is actually the smurf blue equivalent of the Dolmar 421. I own two 421s.

The 510 Dolmar is the tamer brother of the 5105, I own four 5105s.

I run all of these doing firewood and Timber Stand Improvement work.

For more reasons than my fingers can stand to type, get the EA 4300!!!!!!!

 

[FCouperin]

Well the order is in for the EA4300! Thanks to all for your feedback in either direction.

I have to say, I expected buying a chainsaw would be a fairly routine purchase, but after all the research I've been doing here, this is actually pretty exciting. I can't wait to receive the saw and try it out! I'll definitely follow up with how it goes. Thanks again!

 

[svk]

Looks like it's too late to influence the purchase but I'd vote for the larger one if that's your only saw.

 

[CoreyB]

The 4300 will provide enough saw for most people's needs.
Heck with only have 1.5 acres you could have it all cut down aND bucked up in two weeks or less with a 4300/421
In fact a 421 will be my next saw.

 

[svk]

The 4300 will provide enough saw for most people's needs.
Heck with only have 1.5 acres you could have it all cut down aND bucked up in two weeks or less with a 4300/421
In fact a 421 will be my next saw.

I've been meaning to start a small saw thread. I revived the 543 xp discussion but nobody chimed in.

 

[Jeffkrib]

Poleman's response to the OP's first post...... Fist off........ got to love auto correct!
To the OP you will love chainsaws they just do so much work for such a little package.
Big difference between your ordinary home trimmer or blower and even a small chainsaw, the just have grunt.
Get some PPE and hove fun.

 

[wde_1978]

Amazing how different the reasoning and arguments are regarding a 2 choice matter!

I think I would go with the 4300 (421), but that is only based on what I read about that saw.

If You intend to cut bigger diameter wood just get a loop of skip tooth chain, it will cut slower but also reduce the load on the saw.

Good luck, stay safe and have fun with Your new saw!

P.S.: Welcome to ArboristSite!

 

[7sleeper]

Well the order is in for the EA4300! Thanks to all for your feedback in either direction.

I have to say, I expected buying a chainsaw would be a fairly routine purchase, but after all the research I've been doing here, this is actually pretty exciting. I can't wait to receive the saw and try it out! I'll definitely follow up with how it goes. Thanks again!

Have the dealer set the carb correctly to the fuel you intend to use. In your situation I would seriously consider premix fuel. It sounds like the "cottage" is not your permanent residence so pre mix is definately the way to go. Should have a 5 year shelf life and nothing to worry about with carb gumming up, etc. It IS more expensive than mixing yourself but much easier to handle.

If you choose to mix, you should empty the fuel tank and carb system so that the membranes don't have too long contact with your fuel system at the end of the season. I empty the fuel tank and then press the little pump bulb till only air is passing through and empty the fuel tank again. You will be supprised how much fuel is in that system. And then I go to full choke and pull the starter 5-6 x to be sure that the system is empty.
Use your "old" self mixed fuel (>3-6 months) for the lawnmower or similar and always start with a fresh batch.

7

 

[FCouperin]

Wow, thank you so much for the tips, Jeffkrib, wde_1978 and 7sleeper!!! This is invaluable. I didn't know anything about skip tooth chains and premix fuel. I will definitely make use of those tips. I can see premix fuel being really convenient with one less motor to winterize. I assume I can still use the saw during the cold months of Canadian winter with premix fuel if needed?

 

[AlfA01]

I just ordered a Makita 4300 F38 from Germany. It was way cheaper than I could buy the saw locally, so I decided the wait was worth it. I was previously running a small Stihl MS 170, but I traded it for a Tanaka limbing saw (ECS3301). Excited to see this Makita run up close.

Edit:
I just made an edit here to ask why the difference in power rating for the Dolmar vs. the Makita. Dolmar's website claims the PS420 to be 2.7HP and Makita's website claims the EA4300 to be 3.0HP. Is this a regional difference, or is it standard?

 

[AlfA01]

Have the dealer set the carb correctly to the fuel you intend to use. In your situation I would seriously consider premix fuel. It sounds like the "cottage" is not your permanent residence so pre mix is definately the way to go. Should have a 5 year shelf life and nothing to worry about with carb gumming up, etc. It IS more expensive than mixing yourself but much easier to handle.

If you choose to mix, you should empty the fuel tank and carb system so that the membranes don't have too long contact with your fuel system at the end of the season. I empty the fuel tank and then press the little pump bulb till only air is passing through and empty the fuel tank again. You will be supprised how much fuel is in that system. And then I go to full choke and pull the starter 5-6 x to be sure that the system is empty.
Use your "old" self mixed fuel (>3-6 months) for the lawnmower or similar and always start with a fresh batch.

7

I do the same with all my 2-strokes. I usually just disconnect the fuel tube on my outboard while it's idling and let the engine run out of gas, then pull the cord a few times and you are pretty safe.

 

[SawTroll]

Wow, thank you so much for the tips, Jeffkrib, wde_1978 and 7sleeper!!! This is invaluable. I didn't know anything about skip tooth chains and premix fuel. I will definitely make use of those tips. I can see premix fuel being really convenient with one less motor to winterize. I assume I can still use the saw during the cold months of Canadian winter with premix fuel if needed?

I would stay away from the skip chain unless you find that you really need it - it does have its disadvantages, like slower (unless really needed) and less smooth cutting.

Pre-mixed fuel is a good thing, but make sure it is Alkylate fuel with synthetic oil.

 

[Chris-PA]

I would not bother with skip chain on any bar these saws would use.

 

[SawTroll]

I would not bother with skip chain on any bar these saws would use.

Certainly not!