Maul questions

[Jon E]

Two questions:

1. I keep breaking nice expensive hickory handles on my 6 lb maul. After a while, even if I don't miss, the handle will either split or eventually, dry rot and snap. I haven't managed to get my teenaged sons to not miss, yet. I'd like to have someone weld a 36" piece of steel pipe on the head as a handle - any thoughts?

2. I have one of the newer Bailey's "Mega-Maul" that I THOUGHT was going to be the same thing as my father's old Sotz Monster Maul. It is NOT. The handle is about 4" too short. If a person were to extend the handle of one of these things, would you:

• Weld a 4" piece of pipe to the end of the handle;
• Cut the handle off at the head and fabricate a brand new handle;
• Cut the handle off and add 4" between the cutoff end and the head.

 

[Dok]

I had the same problem with the hardware store handles. Most of them have the grain going the wrong direction. Taping a piece of tire rubber just under the head helps protect the handle when you miss. I ended up switching to fiberglass handle mauls.

I know what you mean about that Mega Maul, its a bit short and can land right at your feet. I would add a sleeve to the end, overlapping about 4" and welding it.
Dok

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

I'd vote for #2. Start with a whole new handle. #3 would be my second choice.


I have the same problem with my monster. The handle is shorter than I'd like. I can still do good work with it, but I would like it a full 36".

 

[sesmith]

I switched to a fiberglass handled 8 lb maul a couple of years ago cause the fiberglass handle has a little less sting in my now arthritic hands. You can pick these up pretty cheap at the big box building supply stores. Unfortunately, splitting as much beech as I have been lately has kept my monster maul in pretty constant use.

 

[AOD]

I like my Monster Maul, it has a nice 34" handle, I use it for the toughter stuff and to drive wedges. I use the Fiskars for the smaller stuff.

 

[A. Stanton]

Jon, I've been using the same maul and handle for almost 25 years. I put one on these protective booties on it and never busted a handle yet. And I've missed the mark many a time. Buy a new maul from the sponsors, but if you get one with a wooden handle, get a bootie.

 

[Backwood]

I have also went through a few wooden handles. Tried fiberglass and didnt like it much. The last one I bought was a wooden handle but has a hard plastic sleeve several inches down from the head love it. I have used it several years now and its still good, not a chip in it. the sleeve is definetly the way to go weither you get a maul with a sleeve already on it or add one to the maul you have. It will really save the handles.

 

[cityevader]

I'd vote for #2. Start with a whole new handle. #3 would be my second choice.


I have the same problem with my monster. The handle is shorter than I'd like. I can still do good work with it, but I would like it a full 36".

:agree2:

You want as smooth a piece were the hands are, as a tiny imperfection becomes greatly magnified under pressure. A ridge from different diameter sections would rip yer hands apart.

I think the greatest abuse is from using the handle the free a stuck head. If you ever ever do that, it could theoretically last a lifetime.

Last handle I broke, shoved in a length of 3/4" threaded pipe after hammering one end to fit the oblong hole in head as tight as possible and welded 'er in fer good. Handle lentgh is immense safety improvement. Do it now!