Max rpms for a pro mac 610?

[Biker Dude]

Either way what a PITA to have to pull half the whole saw apart to remove the oil tank to fix.

If anyone can replace that oil line without removing the tank then my hats off to you.

Yeah, they used some worthless clear silicone to seal those tanks back in the day. I don't know how someone could change that line without pulling the tank unless they had some funky bent needlenose pliers and a boroscope!

 

[Modifiedmark]

I made a gasket for one of them and it worked out fine.

The others I used #2 permatex on and they seemed fine also, but I never kept them around that long.

 

[lawnmowertech37]

Yeah, they used some worthless clear silicone to seal those tanks back in the day. I don't know how someone could change that line without pulling the tank unless they had some funky bent needlenose pliers and a boroscope!

thank you for giving me that idea the boroscope idea

i use forceps instead of needlenose

 

[ProMac1K]

I got it from owning 6 or 7 of them.

Must have been hell on 'ya!

I guess it takes more than 10 to change someone's mind, because that's what I own. :check:

I've just prepped mine well and used a compressed bead of strong silicone, and it's worked for the one's that i've done. Like I said before, if the original leaks bother me bad enough, I just figure I might as well go through the whole thing and take care of it all at one time. That's the joy of owning old saws, and being particular and picky at the same time.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Must have been hell on 'ya!

I guess it takes more than 10 to change someone's mind, because that's what I own. :check:

I've just prepped mine well and used a compressed bead of strong silicone, and it's worked for the one's that i've done. Like I said before, if the original leaks bother me bad enough, I just figure I might as well go through the whole thing and take care of it all at one time. That's the joy of owning old saws, and being particular and picky at the same time.

Listen, I'm sorry if you took my comments as bashing your saw, I wouldn't do that.

I will tell my experiance with them truthfully though.

Just please do the same yourself, the PM 605 does not have a prayer of keeping up with many modern 50cc saw's.

Fact, please accept the saw for what it was and is, a good dependable firewood saw.

The reason I have had 7 of em is I have made good money off of everyone of them. It only took the first one to see that I had no reason to keep it around for myself.

 

[ProMac1K]

Listen, I'm sorry if you took my comments as bashing your saw, I wouldn't do that.

I will tell my experiance with them truthfully though.

Just please do the same yourself, the PM 605 does not have a prayer of keeping up with many modern 50cc saw's.

Fact, please accept the saw for what it was and is, a good dependable firewood saw.

The reason I have had 7 of em is I have made good money off of everyone of them. It only took the first one to see that I had no reason to keep it around for myself.

That's fine......thanks for your explanation. I was assuming you were bashing. Like you, i've got nothing to prove or hide. I just didn't want to be undermined on my own opinions, because I haven't found anything to be (wholeheartedly) ashamed about of owning them. I also have modern saws, but they are larger and not in that class of saws. I appreciate you saying what you said about the comparison between them and modern 50cc saws, as that could surely be true. Although they can be made to run real strong, they don't have the new technology, so you have to give them a fair shake. But I didn't want the mood (of the negative posts towards it) to make it sound like it's a "gutless lemon of a saw". Not that I owe them or the old company any praise, but I didn't want to steer anyone in the wrong direction. They are good for what they are. Like you said, they are a dependable firewood saw. I'm not sure what duty they would have been designed for originally, or what duty people would have used them for back when they were made. But they do last, just like any other old saws. Where as the new technology (plastic saws) still has to prove itself, of course, as they haven't been out as long as the older ones. And when I said they run as fast as modern saws, I was referring to rpm (not power from new technology), as they do run fast. They are not built like the old Mac's and Homelite's (which some run slow). Maybe there was some confusion there. :taped::taped:

Could explain your experience with them so people that may read this know why you feel the way you do? Why did you chose to not like them after your first one? If nothing else, I would be interested to hear what you have to say (good or bad).

Thanks

 

[thomas72]

I had a mac 650 at one time. They were good saws and ran decent, but in my opinion they were not a professional saw like the pro mac 850. As a home owner saw they were hard to beat, good power, anti vibe, and decent overall design. I did get rid of it, and moved to the professional mac sp125 and PM800.

 

[Biker Dude]

I use my PM610 as my felling saw and for noodling rounds in half to get them into the truck. It does that job way better than my 346XP or my 350 do. I would love to buy a modern 80-90cc saw but until I can afford it, the Mac will do just fine for me.

 

[Modifiedmark]

posts towards it) Could explain your experience with them so people that may read this know why you feel the way you do? Why did you chose to not like them after your first one? If nothing else, I would be interested to hear what you have to say (good or bad).

Thanks

Well you asked Let me say up front that the only thing I cut is hardwood, some very hard.

My dislike of them is aimed mostly at the 605 and a little less at the 610 since it has a little more power.

First off let me say that speed is not always a big deal for me, but they are just too slow for all the bulk and weight they carry.

I don't care for the poor impulse oiler setup on these, there not near as good as the 10 series oilers. I already mentioned the oil tank and pickup line frustrations

I have seen some recoil problems with them also, with the stud that holds the pulley being made of plastic and binding them up.

There also a pita to get the chain snaked around that huge clutch drum when removing the chain.

Like I said these are just my opinions, right, wrong or otherwise, but I know that there still a option for someone just cutting some firewood a few hours now and then.

In fact most that I have sold have been local to folks who needed a firewood saw who couldn't afford a fancy lightweight new saw and for them a good used 605/610 is still a much better option then a new Mac from Menards.

As long as I stumble across them cheap like I have I will still buy them, just I won't keep em to use myself, as to me there were better options to be had in them days and I own several of those options.




.

 

[ProMac1K]

:agree2:

Thanks for replying back, Mark.

I wasn't referring to just the 605.....I should have clarified that. The topic was started about a 610.....I just threw in the 605 there when I was mentioning about the oil leaks. I only have one 605, one 650, and eight 610's (FWIW). I too have picked the majority of them up for cheap, but just never got rid of them. Some were running, some I got running. They've got anywhere from a 16" to a 24" bar on them. They start good, run great, and don't kill in the hardwood. Just figured for what I got them for, and for what they are, it's nice to have them around. It's nice knowing that you have a bunch around in case you need them, or the parts.

Could you list what the other options were back then that you would suggest?

I do all hardwood cutting as well for the most part. I suppose there is an occasion where a job has you do something else, but not too common.

I agree with all of your opinions there, as they are true. I'm not real familiar with the differences in the oiler setups, so if you could clarify more on that, I would appreciate it. Recoil problems can also be common, as well as trying to snag that chain in between the outboard clutch and the exhaust deflector. But they're not designed to todays standards.

My first 610 was picked up new, back in the day that the company was big and had a good reputation. It seemed to be enough saw for any job that I would be able to put it up against. The rest of them like I said were purchased because of the price, and because I was familiar with them. It's a lot of saw for the price, on some occasions. And like you said in your post, I would fall under a part-time firewood cutter, part-time farm upkeep cutter, and full-time chainsaw addict. The next saw that I got to replace the 610 was a fleet/farm special (similar to the Menards special that you had said). I'll never do that again, all it amounted to was something for limbing (I can't even say it does that real good). Can barely pull a 3/8LP chain in hardwood, nor can it stay idling. For the cost of GOOD saws nowdays, the 600-series makes more sense in my position. It fits many jobs in sawing, as it can limb, fell, and buck just fine. Though there could be better options possibly, but it's a good used/cheap option that runs well for at least an average user.

 

[Modifiedmark]

:agree2:

Thanks for replying back, Mark.

I wasn't referring to just the 605.....I should have clarified that. The topic was started about a 610.....I just threw in the 605 there when I was mentioning about the oil leaks. I only have one 605, one 650, and eight 610's (FWIW). I too have picked the majority of them up for cheap, but just never got rid of them. Some were running, some I got running. They've got anywhere from a 16" to a 24" bar on them. They start good, run great, and don't kill in the hardwood. Just figured for what I got them for, and for what they are, it's nice to have them around. It's nice knowing that you have a bunch around in case you need them, or the parts.

Could you list what the other options were back then that you would suggest?

I do all hardwood cutting as well for the most part. I suppose there is an occasion where a job has you do something else, but not too common.

I agree with all of your opinions there, as they are true. I'm not real familiar with the differences in the oiler setups, so if you could clarify more on that, I would appreciate it. Recoil problems can also be common, as well as trying to snag that chain in between the outboard clutch and the exhaust deflector. But they're not designed to todays standards.

My first 610 was picked up new, back in the day that the company was big and had a good reputation. It seemed to be enough saw for any job that I would be able to put it up against. The rest of them like I said were purchased because of the price, and because I was familiar with them. It's a lot of saw for the price, on some occasions. And like you said in your post, I would fall under a part-time firewood cutter, part-time farm upkeep cutter, and full-time chainsaw addict. The next saw that I got to replace the 610 was a fleet/farm special (similar to the Menards special that you had said). I'll never do that again, all it amounted to was something for limbing (I can't even say it does that real good). Can barely pull a 3/8LP chain in hardwood, nor can it stay idling. For the cost of GOOD saws nowdays, the 600-series makes more sense in my position. It fits many jobs in sawing, as it can limb, fell, and buck just fine. Though there could be better options possibly, but it's a good used/cheap option that runs well for at least an average user.

Yep, were on the same page now for sure. I'm not sure that I can fully explain the earlier Mac oiler setups except that they used a disk that was driven under impulse instead of a rubber diaphram, and sure seemed to work better and were more reliable.

I'm not going into all the details of the options that I think were better, like you said your, aware of the weakness's and the pros of what your working with and think the pros out weigh the con's for you.

I will say that Homelite, Echo and Poulan in those years all had options that I would take myself. Each had there own pros and con's also. The Homelites im thinking of in that class were probably the fastest, but were not much lighter, the Echo's not fast but stone cold reliable a little lighter and had the best oilers and antivibe. The Poulans had good antivibe, lighter, a little faster and also good oilers.

I can tell by you tone though that you have been here long enough to have caught the bug, and I think you will be seeing what else was and is out there on your own soon.

 

[ProMac1K]

Yep, searching for a saw to replace the dreaded Wild "Thang"!

I'll be the first to admit the 600-series isn't perfect for limbing to falling. And i've got other saws for falling. That's why I was recommended another option, and went out and bought the "Thing" a few yrs ago. :bang: And after I found out "IT" wasn't good for "anything", I prescribed myself fully to the two saws for "each job" group. I'm now eying a Jony-Red 2152 or 346XP, something in that class, that can double as a limber and small feller. Those two might be too rich for my blood, definately a huge step up from the 4018WT. Was considering Dolmar and Echo, but dealer and parts availability don't really stand out where i'm at. Honestly nothing has service real local around here, that's why McCulloch's have been "OK" in my book, as I can order in parts and service them on my own. But I would think if I spend the big buck on something fancy, some good local service wouldn't be a bad thing to have.

I'll always have my thoughts and opinions, and will stick up for them, but I also will always like to hear what other people have to say (when it comes to saws, that is). There is lots to be read here. You can never learn enough!

 

[Just_A_Grunt_1978]

I have just got a tach in the mail... what should the max rpm be on an old 10-10 s? Can't find anything