McCulloch Chain Saws

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If I could just find a set of bearings, a piston, and rings for my Pro Mac 700 I would put it back together in a heartbeat.

I have a Timber Bear that has a broken oiler(broke off where it oils the chain) and another Timber Bear that has an HDB-6B. I used ethanol gas in that HDB-6B and the let it sit over the summer. The passages on the HDB-6B have been soaked in carb cleaner, toulene, zylene, and even some concentrated acetic acid. It will not flow fuel. If I could find a pair of rebuildable Tillotson HK's or a rebuildable pair of Zama C2's off a 610 and then the oiler, I would fix them. I assume the C2 or HK that came on the 610's won't require me to change out the throttle unit.

Sadly, all the Mccullochs in my area are gone, and I've looked for the bearings for the 700 to be posted on Ebay since 2011.

Bearings for a SP70: http://oldmowerparts.com/McCulloch-63429-KIT-BEARING-AND-SEAL-Replaces-302160-P2333982.aspx http://oldmowerparts.com/McCulloch-...New-OEM-Chain-Saw-Vintage-Old-S-P2367208.aspx Piston only $975.00 !!!!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/PISTON-ASSEMBLY-85239-FIT-big-OLD-MCCULLOCH-CHAINSAW-/390001117329 Ron
 
Heimannm the 10-10 will get a new fuel line later on but am keeping the spike for now and thanks for the input on the filter and everything, somebody finally noticed the fuel line thats on it currently haha, but I do have all the original filter hardware etc just trying some things out, I'd love to get a few more Macs and am still pondering keeping or getting rid of the 306a I have


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The 306A is lighter and has about 5cc more displacement. Why not keep both?
 
Machinisttx, I like the 306 and will probably keep it just thought about getting some extra cash or something for it and I might be going to look at a pro Mac 10-10 guy is asking $35 looks in good shape, but here is my 306a
puhupe2u.jpg



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Virgil - The 1-46 should be a thin ring version, uses 48691 like the thin ring 250 and many of the kart engines. The 380 is the thick ring version, uses 55123.

When I was cutting up some big (24-28") rounds of maple, the SP81 would go through a tank about every 4-5 rounds...

Fayetteville Equipment (NY) has the PM700 piston with rings, $50 or $55 + shipping.

Mark
 
TY Mark will be good to know if I do have to replace the rings. I figured it being 80cc it would take the same rings as alot of the others of that period. If the 1-46 does work out like I'm hoping it will prob get a full rehab at some point. Narrowed down the 380 issue it is not pulling fuel believe the carb may be stopped up in some fashion as I cant prime it with a syringe as per the rebuild suggestion many have made on the tilly's.
 
Those 82cc MACs do like the fuel.:chainsaw: I bucked a few 3 to 3 1/2 foot white and red oaks with one of mine today. Seemed like I was running through chains faster than fuel - a lot of dirt and ice. On a different note, it was 20* at the wood lot today, lots of ice and frozen wood the first inch or so - I fell once on the ice while toting a round to place under a trailer tongue - landed on my chest but thankfully didn't get hurt. Anyway, my PM800 fired on the third pull and ran. My old faithful Stihl 036Pro took 10 pulls to start and then stalled out twice. Funny thing is I bought the Stihl years ago as my PM700 was wearing me out cranking it. Maybe one day I'll learn a little about carbs and tuning. Ron
 
TY Mark will be good to know if I do have to replace the rings. I figured it being 80cc it would take the same rings as alot of the others of that period. If the 1-46 does work out like I'm hoping it will prob get a full rehab at some point. Narrowed down the 380 issue it is not pulling fuel believe the carb may be stopped up in some fashion as I cant prime it with a syringe as per the rebuild suggestion many have made on the tilly's.
 
Ron was your PM700 tired/wore out at the time? Mine is easy to start. No harder to start than any modern 70cc class saw. Wish you were closer. I'd love to help you develop your tuning skills.
 
Crappin double posts. Carb tuning can be one of the hardest things to initially learn but alot of it is hearing. Took me a week to fine tune my 10-10 about a half a day on the 610. It's a fine art in itself.
 
Crappin double posts. Carb tuning can be one of the hardest things to initially learn but alot of it is hearing. Took me a week to fine tune my 10-10 about a half a day on the 610. It's a fine art in itself.


I agree. There is a learning curve but after you learn it, it's like riding a bike. I just retuned all my saws to run on 32:1 instead of the 40:1 I was running. I longest part was warming the saws up first.

I had a old man help me tune my '67 f-100 after a carb kit installation. He tuned it by placing his hand on the fender and feeling it instead of using a tach. While I can't do that to a truck, I do understand since it's similar to tuning a saw. Don't use instruments, just your senses.

Joe
 
Aaron, I thought about flying you in for a little work. I have listened to those "4 stroking" videos over and over and just can't hear it. There is a difference in how each of my saws run - I can't help but think a lot of it is the tune, or lack thereof. All of my 82cc saws start easily as well as the 125s. Funny as my two earlier MACs (both purchased new and dealer maintained) were hard starters. I thought that was just the nature of MACs. And yes, my PM700 is tired. About 130 psi. It is not a priority to me as my left hand can only handle one tank of gas before going numb so it just sits in the rack looking pretty. I bought the disassembled SP70 to take its place but then decided that the slight weight and big power difference between it and the 82cc saws would likely mean that it too would just sit in the rack. Ron

PS I am hoping that your SP70 will be strong. Whoever had it had begun reassembling it (evidenced by rear AV mount installed without the cowling) so I am assuming that they may have done some internal work.
 
My biggest issue is I have 2 saws designed for 40:1 and 2 that run 20:1. The mix I use which I cant get anymore just lucked up on a case of it is Pioneer brand mix, Pioneer Super Lube with Optimol . It doesn't say what the mix is but it works well havn't had any issues with it. 16 oz treats 10 gallons.
 
Woods listen to a 2 stroke dirtbike that is well tuned sometimes videos just cant convey what being right at it can. It almost sounds like a skip is the best way I can describe it to a smooth purring cat at WOT in wood.
 
I'm looking forward to getting that saw going. Flying out for a visit and tuning session would be a hoot too (but a bit cost prohibitive). Hmmm....

Edit:

Ron I'll try to do a video or two with the 10-series and large frame Macs, with an ear towards clearly hearing the '4-stroking'. With that orange/white saw, try opening up the L side a tad. You may have to raise the idle speed slightly afterwards.
 
6-10 - Did you get a spark today? I normally drag a piece of paper through the points as the last step before closing up the cover just to make sure they are absolutely clean.



Mark

Yes I did! I originally set the points with an analog volt meter per the shop manual but they are too worn after I cleaned them and even though the voltmeter had continuity, they didn't have enough clamping force to saturate the coil. I set them at .018" with a feeler gauge and then I had nice, big, blue spark..
 
Virgil - there is no need to run a different mix in your various machines. With modern oil technology you can't go wrong with 40:1 though some will prefer 32:1 for the sake of an added level of comfort.

Fish asked the question a long time ago and I don't believe anyone had a positive answer "Anyone ever have and oil related failure, other than simply forgetting to add oil"?

I have been running Amsoil Saber at 40:1 on everything for a while and am quite happy with the results. Prior to that I used the TSC branded two stroke oil then Quaker State two stroke mix at 40:1 for many years and again no oil related problems.

Ron - My Stihl 036 had a cold starting problem that was solved by bending the choke linkage slightly to insure the choke shutter closed completely.

Mark
 
Picked up this 7-10A and PM700 today along with a few other brand saws. I need a chain brake handle for the PM700 and the top handle needs to be straitened a bit. Both run awesome. Also a nice 10-10 and a nice 6-10 on there way here.

 
I have a box of NOS chain brake handles to fit the PM700, your choice yellow or black.

Send a conversation if you are interested in one. FYI they are listed on e-bay pretty much all the time as well.

If you run the 7-10 along side the PM700 my experience says the 7-10 gets the nod every time.

Mark

I will have to get a picture of the other side of the saw so you can see it and tell me if the handle is the only thing I need. I would buy them from you before I bought anything from E-bay.
 
Did they ever put a 3/4 wrap on the PM700? The bar on this PM700 is bent and I would almost consider replacing it all together with a nicer one.
 

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