McCulloch Pro Mac 610 "Rebuild": Clutch and Flywheel install, Pre-oil necessary?

[Alghobbes]

Hello everyone!

I found many answers on the site so far but I still have a couple of questions. Maybe some of you nice, professional folks can help.

I have my Pro Mac 610 all broken down except for the engine, parts are squeaky clean, new gaskets, etc. have arrived and I'm ready to reassemble.

Questions:

1. I have both the flywheel and clutch off of the engine (had to buy a new flywheel because I broke a fin before I did the research on how to CAREFULLY remove it). Which should I install first and how do I "press" the flywheel and clutch back on to the crankshaft?

2. There was some sort of clear, rubber cement resembling stuff along the edges of the chain oil reservoir. I thought it was just "hardened" chain oil but I'm starting to wonder if it's some sort of squirt on gasket (there is no gasket between the crankcase and oiler reservoir otherwise).

3. (Skip if you're bored already) In the process of trying to clean off the above mentioned "rubber cement", I squirted some wd-40 through the oiler ports/galleries in the crankcase (I was afraid the stuff had clogged in the galleries/oil pick up hose and needed a solvent with a hose and a tiny bit of pressure behind it). Unbeknownst to me one of those galleries went into the crankcase (shoot!) So I quickly rinsed the galleries out with 40:1 fuel and also rinsed out the crankcase. The wd-40 was only in there for a few seconds and I only had to barely move the piston to dump the fuel in and rinse it. Since I had certainly rinsed off (with fuel) any residual oil left on the crank, I dumped some 2-cycle oil into the "crank case" and turned it over a few times as well as spun it around to make sure it coated everything (including the piston/cylinder). Then I dumped it out. My logic here is that the oil will protect and lubricate the critical parts until the unburnt 2-cycle oil reaches them although I may foul my first spark plug, does anyone not agree with this?

Ok, that's all I've got for now. Sorry it was long winded. More to come and thank you everybody for your professional insight!

Alex

 

[Arrowhead]

I think you went a little overboard on the case cleaning. :biggrin:
What you did is fine, but wasn't necessary, spraying the wd-40 was fine.
Line up the flywheel with the key and slide it on. Then tighten to torque specs.
The order does not matter. The clutch should screw on with left hand threads.
I use a piece of rope through the plug hole as a piston stop. Put the rope in the hole,
make sure it's not coming out the exhaust port by bringing the piston up to cover the port.
Then bring the piston the rest of the way up till the piston squishes the rope. This will lock the
engine so you can tighten the flywheel and clutch.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Hello everyone!

I found many answers on the site so far but I still have a couple of questions. Maybe some of you nice, professional folks can help.

I have my Pro Mac 610 all broken down except for the engine, parts are squeaky clean, new gaskets, etc. have arrived and I'm ready to reassemble.

Questions:

1. I have both the flywheel and clutch off of the engine (had to buy a new flywheel because I broke a fin before I did the research on how to CAREFULLY remove it). Which should I install first and how do I "press" the flywheel and clutch back on to the crankshaft?

2. There was some sort of clear, rubber cement resembling stuff along the edges of the chain oil reservoir. I thought it was just "hardened" chain oil but I'm starting to wonder if it's some sort of squirt on gasket (there is no gasket between the crankcase and oiler reservoir otherwise).

3. (Skip if you're bored already) In the process of trying to clean off the above mentioned "rubber cement", I squirted some wd-40 through the oiler ports/galleries in the crankcase (I was afraid the stuff had clogged in the galleries/oil pick up hose and needed a solvent with a hose and a tiny bit of pressure behind it). Unbeknownst to me one of those galleries went into the crankcase (shoot!) So I quickly rinsed the galleries out with 40:1 fuel and also rinsed out the crankcase. The wd-40 was only in there for a few seconds and I only had to barely move the piston to dump the fuel in and rinse it. Since I had certainly rinsed off (with fuel) any residual oil left on the crank, I dumped some 2-cycle oil into the "crank case" and turned it over a few times as well as spun it around to make sure it coated everything (including the piston/cylinder). Then I dumped it out. My logic here is that the oil will protect and lubricate the critical parts until the unburnt 2-cycle oil reaches them although I may foul my first spark plug, does anyone not agree with this?

Ok, that's all I've got for now. Sorry it was long winded. More to come and thank you everybody for your professional insight!

Alex

1. The flywheel and muffler just slide on and are held on with the nut.
2. Use motoseal or some other gasoline resistant sealant to make a new seal. Just a thin film.
3. Your fine. I often "hose things down" with wd or some other oil to keep rust away after cleaning it up. Your clean out took care of any residual wd40.

If you need anything else... Post away. Welcome to Arborist site!

 

[Chris-PA]

You can seal the oil tank with Permatex Ultra Black - it is not gasoline resistant but it is oil resistant, and this is just an oil tank. I used it on mine and it does not leak a drop. It's available at any auto parts store and many big box stores. Clean the surfaces well before applying it.

 

[Alghobbes]

Thanks everyone, very helpful so far.

1. The flywheel and muffler just slide on and are held on with the nut.

Why is the flywheel so difficult to remove? If I just crank down that nut (to spec) will it "press" on because the crank and flywheel are tapered?

After reading the recent post about scoring on the piston and cylinder I have noticed that my piston and cylinder look to be scored. I am looking for something in new/better condition. Probably spending too much on this project but what the heck? Think I may have breathed in too many fumes cleaning the thing up.

 

[heimannm]

As noted, just line up the key and tighten the nut to spec's. Same goes on the clutch side. Trust me, it will tighten up as much as needed.

Parts for the 600 Series are readily available, but a lot of guys will ask why put that much into a saw that is overweight and underpowered. Others will remind you that the 600 Series saws have put a tremendous amount of wood in the fire.

Check out e-bay for parts or just start Google searching, calling local shops, etc., etc..

Mark

 

[Alghobbes]

Thanks Mark. I've been checking ebay, prices must be high for pistons but I'll just wait until I find something more reasonable.

I think I'll just get a new cylinder and piston + rings but keep my crank and rod. Do I need to replace the crank seals due to separating the "crankcase" from the cylinder (thus exposing/unseating the seals)?

I will also try to salvage my piston pin and needle bearing.

Thanks again!

Alex

 

[heimannm]

Crank shaft seals are pretty cheap and easy to find. No reason to take a chance on a bad seal if you are going to go the route of a complete rebuild.

Mark

 

[Mac 6-10]

Sounds like my 6-10, Just gonna clean it up, crap thats broken, thats worn out, that needs replaced! I put in all these parts in mine by the time i finished it.

New Piston
New rings
New pin
New crank bearings
New rod bearings
New piston bearings
New crank seals
New carb
New clutch
New sprocket and bearing
New bar and chains
New Gaskets
New filters
New Paint

All equal= NEW SAW


I use Permatex motoseal on all my saws on all sealing points. it is designed for sealing crankcase halves and gasoline doen't bother it at all! It also wont break off like rtv does if too much is used.