McCulloch Pro Mac 700

[2Twannabe]

I've been looking for a saw in the 70cc class and frankly, can't bring myself to spend the asking price on a new Echo CS-680, Stihl 440, or Husqvarna 372XP, all of which appear to be rated as "professional" saws. Instead, I'm looking used, old in fact, so I bought a Pro Mac 700 off CL for $40.

My question - is the Pro Mac 700 considered a professional saw? I don't want to get in a debate over the best saw, power to weight ratio, #1 selling saw of all time, no anti-vibe, etc. I've read plenty of opinions on this forum, and you know what they say about opinions.

I just want to know if an old Pro Mac 700 is worth rebuilding. It's been seized up pretty good, so it's going to need a new piston and rings and a few other bits. I figure I can probably get this thing going again for about another $100-125.

I'd also appreciate it if anyone can shed some light on the model nomenclature. When I did a search on Pro Mac 700, I found Acres site which indicates the saw was built between 77 and 88 and had breaker point ignition and a model number of 600061. The saw I have has a model number 600116-02. When I do a search, I get results indicating it was built between 82 and 92. I want to make sure that whatever parts I buy are the right parts.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Bret4207]

The PM 700 is an updated version of the 7-10, one of the best pro saws ever built by Mac. It's entirely a pro grade saw, one of the last Mac produced. Well, I'll qualify that since it seems there are always odd balls-Maybe there are exceptions in the very late models, but the ones I've seen, used and worked on are all the updated 7-10 types. Lots of power in a small package. They also have a better AV system than the earlier 10 series, but they aren't up in a modern saws class in that respect. You still get some "cutters curl" with a lot of them.

I'd fix it and be very happy.

 

[Scooterbum]

Yes it's a pro saw. The one I have will pull a 28" bar in hardwood without breaking a sweat. The vibes aren't all that bad. But you might invest in some good earplugs.

 

[heimannm]

I find the PM700 to be slower and heavier than a 7-10, but generally they are a lot more durable. Certainly they are very capable saws and when properly care for will cut a lot of wood.

Keep an eye on e-bay as you may well be able to pick up a running saw for what you are plannning to spend for parts, then over time you can add some parts as needed (rings, piston, cylinder) to keep that saw running forever.

As Scooterbum points out, hearing protection is a must as the old McCulloch saws are loud.

Enjoy.

Mark

 

[djones]

I have a PM700 suffering from the same problems you described, I picked up a cylinder here on the site from one member and am still looking for a set of rings and a piston to complete the project so please keep posting your progress and good luck. I enjoy my 7-10 and am patiently waiting to run the 700 to compare the two.

 

[Tzed250]

Great saws, one of the best looking of all time too...

 

[Scooterbum]

I find the PM700 to be slower and heavier than a 7-10, but generally they are a lot more durable. Certainly they are very capable saws and when properly care for will cut a lot of wood.

Keep an eye on e-bay as you may well be able to pick up a running saw for what you are plannning to spend for parts, then over time you can add some parts as needed (rings, piston, cylinder) to keep that saw running forever.

As Scooterbum points out, hearing protection is a must as the old McCulloch saws are loud.

Enjoy.

Mark

Hey Mark
Since your online. Is there a trick to replace the on/off switch? Hands aren't as steady as they used to be.

 

[heimannm]

I haven't messed with one in a while but as I recall, I drove the pin out of the throttle trigger to provide a clear shot down to the switch. The button is held in place with a screw that also connects the kill wire to the contact of the switch.

Mark

 

[Scooterbum]

I haven't messed with one in a while but as I recall, I drove the pin out of the throttle trigger to provide a clear shot down to the switch. The button is held in place with a screw that also connects the kill wire to the contact of the switch.

Mark

Thanks I'll give that a try. Little sucker is really buried.

 

[mad murdock]

I think my PM700 has more snoose than my husky 372. Fix it and enjoy! Properly cared for it will be cutting wood for your great great grandkids!

 

[half_full]

If you are patient you may be able to get a running PM700 fairly cheap. I picked up a runner off CL for $50 last year. I've since seen runners in my area in the $100 range. I plan to pick another when I find another good deal.
I have the 372xp and it's a great saw. But, there's something about those old saws that's starting to draw me in.

Another mention on hearing protection. The saw is painfully loud.

 

[Scooterbum]

One of the few saws you actually want to do a "Reverse Muffler Mod" to.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

 

[heimannm]

I have now three PM800's with the large, effective mufflers. Although those saw run and cut very well, they just don't sound as impressive when they are pulling hard. I tend to use my SP81 more than the PM800 for that very reason even though a couple of the PM800's are faster in the cut.

Mark

 

[Tzed250]

I took the reed valve off of my Mac4300(PM700)I ran the saw. I put the reed valve back where it was.

 

[2Twannabe]

Thanks for the advice and info. I'm already wise to the roar factor. I started the saw up out in the garage and the wife and both dogs came out to see what I was destroying. It turns out the reed valve is shattered and about 1/3 is missing. Definitely have to replace that!

Any comments on the model number? Is the 600116-02 used to denote newer breakerless ignition? I haven't been able to find any rhyme or reason on m/n or s/n designations regarding date of manufacture.

Jeff

 

[2Twannabe]

Great saws, one of the best looking of all time too...

That's a nice looking saw. Mine looks like it's lived a little harder life

 

[roberte]

I had the opportunity to run 2 of them from 82-84, Strong saws and the ear plugs is no joke.

 

[2Twannabe]

Here's what I'm up against...

I've already sourced and ordered the parts. Hope this has a happy ending.

Remarks re: finding a running saw for what I plan to spend repairing this one are duly noted, but where would be the fun and the challenge in that? I get a lot of satisfaction in taking something that someone else gave up on and returning it to it's rightful place as a useful tool. And then there's the part about having a good running pro saw for a third (or less) of the price of a new saw, and one that not many of my pals have ever seen to boot.

I suspect there are many of you who feel the same way.

Regards,
Jeff

 

[heimannm]

That piston is pretty rough, how does the cylinder look?

I have taken some apart that looked as bad, clean them up a bit and free up the rings and they will run. Perhaps not quite a strong as a new one but after all, it's not new anymore.

Mark

 

[2Twannabe]

That piston is pretty rough, how does the cylinder look?

I have taken some apart that looked as bad, clean them up a bit and free up the rings and they will run. Perhaps not quite a strong as a new one but after all, it's not new anymore.

Mark

I haven't been able to spend much time on it between my full time job and wrenching part time for a landscape company, but I think the cylinder will clean up pretty good. I have to get it cleaned up to mic it properly. It doesn't appear to be worn through the plating. The rings weren't stuck, but there's some pretty bad scoring and one really deep vertical groove in that piston. It only measured 120 psi on the compression tester. I'm using a standard automotive compression tester. I'd like to find a low volume tester for small two strokes, but haven't come across one yet.

Jeff