Menchhofer
ArboristSite Guru
I had someone tell me the other day they use merit soil injections for control of bagworms. Has anyone used this approach with any success????thanks
Merit for Bagworms?
- Thread starter Menchhofer
- Start date
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phasthound
ArboristSite Lurker
Merit does not control bagworms.
coffeecraver
ArboristSite Operative
Control Measures
Bagworms are difficult to control because they are often unnoticed until mature. Mature larvae will often pupate early if they detect pesticides on the plant foliage. Though there are a few known parasites and predators, they are often not adequate in urban habitats.
Option 1-Cultural Control-Mechanical Hand Picking If the bags are few in number and easily reached they may be picked off the plant and squashed. This can be done easily in the late fall when deciduous foliage has been dropped or the bits of plant material on the bags turn brown and can be easily located on evergreens. Be sure to cut the attachment silk band so that the branch will not be girdled in the future.
Option 2-Biological Control-Use the Bacterial Spray Bt The bacterium, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), is effective against bagworms if it is used against young larvae. Applications should be made at the end of June after all the eggs have hatched and the larvae are through ballooning.
Option 3-Chemical Control-Insecticide Sprays Stomach insecticides are very useful for control of bagworms. Remember that the plant foliage is to be thoroughly covered because the larvae are protected from contact by being in the silk bag. Again, early sprays against young larvae are more effective than later applications. Products registered for bagworm control are: acephate (Orthene), bendiocarb (Ficam, Turcam)(*), bifenthrin (Talstar), carbaryl (Sevin), chlorpyrifos (Dursban), cyfluthrin (Tempo)(*), diazinon, dimethoate (Cygon), fluvalinate (Mavrik)(*), malathion, nicotine sulfate, pyrethrum, permethrin (Pounce)(*), rotenone and trichlorfon (Dylox, Proxol)(*).
Option 4-Chemical Control-Timed Sprays Using Degree-Day Emergence Using a base temperature of 14.4 degrees C (57.9 degrees F) the median first emergence is 380 DD base 14.4 degrees C (716 DD degrees F) and the median last emergence is 572 DD base 14.4 degrees C (1062 DD degrees F). Allow for an extra week of ballooning after the last emergence mark has been reached before applying Bt or an insecticide. A less precise degree-day model uses a 50 degrees F base which calculates last emergence around 900 DD units.
* = Restricted Use Pesticide
Bagworms are difficult to control because they are often unnoticed until mature. Mature larvae will often pupate early if they detect pesticides on the plant foliage. Though there are a few known parasites and predators, they are often not adequate in urban habitats.
Option 1-Cultural Control-Mechanical Hand Picking If the bags are few in number and easily reached they may be picked off the plant and squashed. This can be done easily in the late fall when deciduous foliage has been dropped or the bits of plant material on the bags turn brown and can be easily located on evergreens. Be sure to cut the attachment silk band so that the branch will not be girdled in the future.
Option 2-Biological Control-Use the Bacterial Spray Bt The bacterium, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), is effective against bagworms if it is used against young larvae. Applications should be made at the end of June after all the eggs have hatched and the larvae are through ballooning.
Option 3-Chemical Control-Insecticide Sprays Stomach insecticides are very useful for control of bagworms. Remember that the plant foliage is to be thoroughly covered because the larvae are protected from contact by being in the silk bag. Again, early sprays against young larvae are more effective than later applications. Products registered for bagworm control are: acephate (Orthene), bendiocarb (Ficam, Turcam)(*), bifenthrin (Talstar), carbaryl (Sevin), chlorpyrifos (Dursban), cyfluthrin (Tempo)(*), diazinon, dimethoate (Cygon), fluvalinate (Mavrik)(*), malathion, nicotine sulfate, pyrethrum, permethrin (Pounce)(*), rotenone and trichlorfon (Dylox, Proxol)(*).
Option 4-Chemical Control-Timed Sprays Using Degree-Day Emergence Using a base temperature of 14.4 degrees C (57.9 degrees F) the median first emergence is 380 DD base 14.4 degrees C (716 DD degrees F) and the median last emergence is 572 DD base 14.4 degrees C (1062 DD degrees F). Allow for an extra week of ballooning after the last emergence mark has been reached before applying Bt or an insecticide. A less precise degree-day model uses a 50 degrees F base which calculates last emergence around 900 DD units.
* = Restricted Use Pesticide
Lumberjack
Banned
Propane torch
Carl
Carl
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Wasps chow down on them.
Dan F
ArboristSite Operative
Steve-
I don't know any specifics or even how valid the information is, but a guy at Lesco (I think he may have been the manager) told me that Merit does not work well for ornamentals over 8 feet in height.
That being said, we were checking into the effectiveness of the Tree Tech injections for bagworms last month. We were hoping to use them this year, but according to Cliff Sadof at Purdue, they don't work too well on conifers. What he suggested was spinosid, brand name Conserve. From what I understand it's a biological control. He also suggested two sprayings, one in mid to late June, another in mid to late July to catch any late hatchers like we had last year.
That being said, we will probably continue to use Talstar this year, as we already have plenty and it does a very good job!
Carl- you'd run yourself ragged trying to burn the little bastards off of the tree. I think you may be thinking of tent caterpillars, not bagworms.
Check out my attachment for a pic of one. This is a *small* bagworm, probably less than 1 1/2 months since it hatched. My wife named the file, BTW.
And Butch, I have yet to see any wasps around here "chow down on them". Maybe its a southern thing where that occurs?
Dan
I don't know any specifics or even how valid the information is, but a guy at Lesco (I think he may have been the manager) told me that Merit does not work well for ornamentals over 8 feet in height.
That being said, we were checking into the effectiveness of the Tree Tech injections for bagworms last month. We were hoping to use them this year, but according to Cliff Sadof at Purdue, they don't work too well on conifers. What he suggested was spinosid, brand name Conserve. From what I understand it's a biological control. He also suggested two sprayings, one in mid to late June, another in mid to late July to catch any late hatchers like we had last year.
That being said, we will probably continue to use Talstar this year, as we already have plenty and it does a very good job!
Carl- you'd run yourself ragged trying to burn the little bastards off of the tree. I think you may be thinking of tent caterpillars, not bagworms.
Check out my attachment for a pic of one. This is a *small* bagworm, probably less than 1 1/2 months since it hatched. My wife named the file, BTW.
And Butch, I have yet to see any wasps around here "chow down on them". Maybe its a southern thing where that occurs?
Dan
phasthound
ArboristSite Lurker
Dan, you'd better tell the guy at Lesco to go back to training class.
Merit soil injections are very effective in controling Hemlock Wooley Adelgids in 100' tall hemocks with residual control lasting up to three years let alone 8' ornamentals! However, Merit does not control caterpillars and can cause mite problems.
I've seen a bit of chemical bashing on this list. I manage a PHC program for a tree care company & I have 25 years of experiance using chemicals. I use other means first if possible, however, most clients want their properties looking beautiful and don't want to hear that all their plantings were done incorrectly, should be ripped out, and start again from scratch (on highly compacted soils). In all these years, I have seen very little environmental impact when chmicals are used properly.
Barry Draycott
Merit soil injections are very effective in controling Hemlock Wooley Adelgids in 100' tall hemocks with residual control lasting up to three years let alone 8' ornamentals! However, Merit does not control caterpillars and can cause mite problems.
I've seen a bit of chemical bashing on this list. I manage a PHC program for a tree care company & I have 25 years of experiance using chemicals. I use other means first if possible, however, most clients want their properties looking beautiful and don't want to hear that all their plantings were done incorrectly, should be ripped out, and start again from scratch (on highly compacted soils). In all these years, I have seen very little environmental impact when chmicals are used properly.
Barry Draycott
Dan F
ArboristSite Operative
I kinda thought the guy was full of it, but I haven't used Merit at all (haven't even read the label), so I wasn't about to tell him that.
Dan
Dan
phasthound
ArboristSite Lurker
Dan,
Bagworms are easy to kill if you spray in June. Talstar will do the job, but it kills a wide range of insects and mites. There are reports that because Talstar also kills benificial mites, it can therefore lead to an increase in the population of "bad" mites. If possible, now is a good time to handpick and dispose of the bagworms since each female lays many eggs. If you spray in June, I'd recommend a BT formulation and, if necessary, a followup application of acephate.
For those of you who are not familiar with bagworms, they can be a devistating pest.
Barry Draycott
Bagworms are easy to kill if you spray in June. Talstar will do the job, but it kills a wide range of insects and mites. There are reports that because Talstar also kills benificial mites, it can therefore lead to an increase in the population of "bad" mites. If possible, now is a good time to handpick and dispose of the bagworms since each female lays many eggs. If you spray in June, I'd recommend a BT formulation and, if necessary, a followup application of acephate.
For those of you who are not familiar with bagworms, they can be a devistating pest.
Barry Draycott
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
I watched two red wasps go into the webbagthing and each fly of with a larvae.
I had a whole new respect for wasps after that.
Well, besides the respect I ALLREADY have for 'em!
Dan F
ArboristSite Operative
How big was this "webbagthing"? If it was about 1 1/2 inches long and 3/4 inch wide, elongated oval, then it was probably bagworms. If it was much bigger than that, then it was tent caterpillars. Two different things.
Dan
Dan
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
Since he is in LA (Lower Alabama) it could be something entirely different.
But there are a number of predatory and parasitic wasps that like them. They just lay so many egs.
A good first and followup spray for anything is a soap or oil (oils may damage waxy blue coatings) IMO the neurotoxins are used way too much. They should be reserved for infestation levels where there is a clear passing of an economic threashold.
But there are a number of predatory and parasitic wasps that like them. They just lay so many egs.
A good first and followup spray for anything is a soap or oil (oils may damage waxy blue coatings) IMO the neurotoxins are used way too much. They should be reserved for infestation levels where there is a clear passing of an economic threashold.
Bagworms
I have used orthene for about 4 year up until last year. A friend told me to use baytroid, Im sure my spelling is wrong on that but pronounced the way it read's. It has no smell and you mix such a small amount into the water that you would think you were wasteing your time but if I did not have 100 percent kill it was close. They will be back,though.
I have used orthene for about 4 year up until last year. A friend told me to use baytroid, Im sure my spelling is wrong on that but pronounced the way it read's. It has no smell and you mix such a small amount into the water that you would think you were wasteing your time but if I did not have 100 percent kill it was close. They will be back,though.
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Actually, thats pretty funny.
