Meteor cylinder

[Jedthro]

I bought a Meteor p&c for my chinesium MS460, wanting to see if there is any difference in performance.

I'm quite impressed by the finish of this cylinder but I'm not sure what to make of this ridge on the bottom surface. With a straight edge across the base surface, this ridge appears to be about 0.002" high. Do I need to take this down?

The saw is still wearing the chinee cylinder so I'm not able to check the squish. I don't imagine it would be any issue if I use a fiber gasket, but I'm concerned about running either a metal gasket or go gasket delete depending on the squish number.

Thoughts?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Might just be the photo, or my screen- but I see no obvious ridge on the mating surfaces where the bottom of the cylinder casting mates up and is bolted to the crankcase.
Are you meaning the plating finish mark on the circular protrusion of the cylinder proper, that sits inside the case opening and does not bear on a surface to surface contact?

 

[Jedthro]

Might just be the photo, or my screen- but I see no obvious ridge on the mating surfaces where the bottom of the cylinder casting mates up and is bolted to the crankcase.
Are you meaning the plating finish mark on the circular protrusion of the cylinder proper, that sits inside the case opening and does not bear on a surface to surface contact?

The ridge is only 3mm from the edge of the base on the narrow sides so I'm thinking it would be on the sealing surface.

It probably won't matter at all if I use a paper gasket but I'm just wondering if it's worth worrying about.

 

[SteveSr]

I bought a Meteor p&c for my chinesium MS460, wanting to see if there is any difference in performance.

I'm quite impressed by the finish of this cylinder but I'm not sure what to make of this ridge on the bottom surface. With a straight edge across the base surface, this ridge appears to be about 0.002" high. Do I need to take this down?

The saw is still wearing the chinee cylinder so I'm not able to check the squish. I don't imagine it would be any issue if I use a fiber gasket, but I'm concerned about running either a metal gasket or go gasket delete depending on the squish number.

Thoughts?View attachment 958176

It appears that the bottom of the cylinder was NOT machined flat with the surface that contains the bolt holes. I don't know if that is as intended. What did the original cylinder base look like? What do other Meteors look like?

 

[Automender]

If you are referring to the ring around the bottom of the cylinder then that maybe intentional to compress the base gasket better by increasing the pressure on the gasket. Squish is measured with solder inserted into the sparkplug hole and pushed to the outer diameter and then the starter cord is pulled. I used .060 rosin core solder. My limited experience with aftermarket is that they have a little more built in squish. The one I used distance from jug base to squish ring was .020 more than OEM. Your OEM is actually an aftermarket one so I would measure that distance on your present jug once you remove it and compare to the Meteor measurement. Add the squish from the solder measurement plus the difference of the base to squish ring measurement and finally the difference in base gaskets. That will give you a starting position to determine the final squish. Also compare the original base gasket to your new one. I had to basically eliminate the base gasket to just get to OEM squish. Actually I made a gasket out of a pop can with two sides with a thin layer of Motoseal.

 

[Jedthro]

It appears that the bottom of the cylinder was NOT machined flat with the surface that contains the bolt holes. I don't know if that is as intended. What did the original cylinder base look like? What do other Meteors look like?

This is my first meteor p&c.

The saw is a farmertec chinee clone of the MS460 which I've assembled recently. It runs pretty strong but I'm wanting to see if a better p&c would make it better. I really wanted to use an oem p&c, but at about $300.00 for the stihl parts, I decided to go with meteor based on all I've read.

The cylinder that came with the kit took a bit of work to clean up the casting flash in all of the ports. The meteor is much better in that regard.

 

[Jedthro]

If you are referring to the ring around the bottom of the cylinder then that maybe intentional to compress the base gasket better by increasing the pressure on the gasket. Squish is measured with solder inserted into the sparkplug hole and pushed to the outer diameter and then the starter cord is pulled. I used .060 rosin core solder. My limited experience with aftermarket is that they have a little more built in squish. The one I used distance from jug base to squish ring was .020 more than OEM. Your OEM is actually an aftermarket one so I would measure that distance on your present jug once you remove it and compare to the Meteor measurement. Add the squish from the solder measurement plus the difference of the base to squish ring measurement and finally the difference in base gaskets. That will give you a starting position to determine the final squish. Also compare the original base gasket to your new one. I had to basically eliminate the base gasket to just get to OEM squish. Actually I made a gasket out of a pop can with two sides with a thin layer of Motoseal.

In my (very) limited experience, 2 clone saws and a few oem stihls, I've ended up deleting the base gaskets to get below .030 squish, which is why I'm assuming I'll have to do the same with this setup.

I'm going to run at least 6 tanks of fuel through this before I do the cylinder swap and then compare cutting times after break in.