Metering lever adjustment question- 011AVT w/ Walbro WT291

[Headwrench]

Hello,

I'm pondering my experience with this Walbro WT29A. I have the appropriate W shaped adjustment gauge and have watched the Walbro company's tutorial video. It shows to use the WT stamping leg of the gauge and the video shows the lever shouldn't have an air gap, nor be pushed down by the gauge, when setting is correct.
On initial inspection the lever was high so I bent it down as indicated until you could drag the gauge over it and there was no daylight, nor was it pushing down. Then the saw would run like it was starving for fuel.
I went back in and set the lever higher again to where, when I'd use the gauge, it would push the lever down but just to the point where the fork part around the needle would be at its highest point without lifting the needle. Then it runs good. What's the deal? Why does 'correct' adjustment make it starve?
I went through the whole saw replacing piston & rings, honing, reed gasket, plug wire, side seals and .010 coil gap, and carb kit. Fuel line, breather line and filter are new and unrestricted. I even left out the breather restrictors for test purposes. With a MightyVac pump, needle shows no bleed when pressurized. I've been an auto mechanic for 30 years. I don't tell you this to position myself above anyone. Just so you know I've ingested too many exhaust fumes over the years
Any thoughts appreciated.
Mark H Burien WA

 

[user 122190]

The Metering Lever is now the new favorite thing, replacing the "do a muffler mod", or the "remove the limiters". It will cure all, you feel younger, make you powerful between the sheets, and get you the hot chicks.

BTW, I check and adjust mine daily. Even if I don't use the saw.

 

[Headwrench]

The Metering Lever is now the new favorite thing, replacing the "do a muffler mod", or the "remove the limiters". It will cure all, you feel younger, make you powerful between the sheets, and get you the hot chicks.

BTW, I check and adjust mine daily. Even if I don't use the saw.

I guess I did say "any thoughts appreciated"

 

[rupedoggy]

Wow. Why do you think? Maybe the needle is a little different length. Maybe the seat is drilled a little different. Maybe the end of the needle is a little worn. Maybe the diaphragm is a little stretched. Maybe the carburetor is cast a little off. Maybe the end of the fulcrum is a little worn. Maybe the angle you have it bent is a little different. Maybe the hole for the fuel flow is a little tight. Maybe the gasket is a little thicker. Sheesh can't a 30 year mechanic figure it out?

 

[Headwrench]

Wow. Why do you think? Maybe the needle is a little different length. Maybe the seat is drilled a little different. Maybe the end of the needle is a little worn. Maybe the diaphragm is a little stretched. Maybe the carburetor is cast a little off. Maybe the end of the fulcrum is a little worn. Maybe the angle you have it bent is a little different. Maybe the hole for the fuel flow is a little tight. Sheesh can't a 30 year mechanic figure it out?

I hope your life takes a turn for the better!

 

[user 122190]

I am a hobby gunsmith and a reluctant small engine mechanic, and I can say definitely that as parts become smaller and smaller it is best to leave them alone. If in doubt replace them. They are to small to be adjusting, well understood, or trouble shot as they operate within a very small margin. The meter level is within the carburetor, and is NOT to be adjusted or even messed with by owners. See the owners manual for the indepth description of the said component -- Can't find it, Not there? Point made!

There is always the muffler mod, for those that want to fiddle about. Remember, if it is louder it is more powerful.

 

[rupedoggy]

Note to self. If you break down in Seattle try to find a good mechanic with common sense.

 

[grizz55chev]

Hello,

I'm pondering my experience with this Walbro WT29A. I have the appropriate W shaped adjustment gauge and have watched the Walbro company's tutorial video. It shows to use the WT stamping leg of the gauge and the video shows the lever shouldn't have an air gap, nor be pushed down by the gauge, when setting is correct.
On initial inspection the lever was high so I bent it down as indicated until you could drag the gauge over it and there was no daylight, nor was it pushing down. Then the saw would run like it was starving for fuel.
I went back in and set the lever higher again to where, when I'd use the gauge, it would push the lever down but just to the point where the fork part around the needle would be at its highest point without lifting the needle. Then it runs good. What's the deal? Why does 'correct' adjustment make it starve?
I went through the whole saw replacing piston & rings, honing, reed gasket, plug wire, side seals and .010 coil gap, and carb kit. Fuel line, breather line and filter are new and unrestricted. I even left out the breather restrictors for test purposes. With a MightyVac pump, needle shows no bleed when pressurized. I've been an auto mechanic for 30 years. I don't tell you this to position myself above anyone. Just so you know I've ingested too many exhaust fumes over the years
Any thoughts appreciated.
Mark H Burien WA

If the Saw is running like it should, why ask why? Go cut wood and make a mental note of what worked, just a thought.

 

[Headwrench]

Note to self. If you break down in Seattle try to find a good mechanic with common sense.

If you come to Seattle let me know! I'm guessing you're nicer in person.

 

[trains]

Hello,

I'm pondering my experience with this Walbro WT29A. I have the appropriate W shaped adjustment gauge and have watched the Walbro company's tutorial video. It shows to use the WT stamping leg of the gauge and the video shows the lever shouldn't have an air gap, nor be pushed down by the gauge, when setting is correct.
On initial inspection the lever was high so I bent it down as indicated until you could drag the gauge over it and there was no daylight, nor was it pushing down. Then the saw would run like it was starving for fuel.
I went back in and set the lever higher again to where, when I'd use the gauge, it would push the lever down but just to the point where the fork part around the needle would be at its highest point without lifting the needle. Then it runs good. What's the deal? Why does 'correct' adjustment make it starve?
I went through the whole saw replacing piston & rings, honing, reed gasket, plug wire, side seals and .010 coil gap, and carb kit. Fuel line, breather line and filter are new and unrestricted. I even left out the breather restrictors for test purposes. With a MightyVac pump, needle shows no bleed when pressurized. I've been an auto mechanic for 30 years. I don't tell you this to position myself above anyone. Just so you know I've ingested too many exhaust fumes over the years
Any thoughts appreciated.
Mark H Burien WA

How clean was the screen just before the main venturi valve ?
they can look ok, but as they are fine mesh, can clog up, maybe someone has richened it up by moving the lever to compensate for that, and some how it works.

Some diaphragms can have a different nub/ nipple on them, that is a different length to the original too, thus needing a higher lever setting.

Thats the first few things I can think of.

T