Micro pulley with prussick loop.

[MrRecurve]

I am currently climbing on a klemheist, which works fantastically, however I would like to have the one handed slack tending ability that my VT offers. Does anybody use a micro with their prussick loop?

I have tried it in several configurations, clipped onto the biner and clipped onto the termination knot, however I find that by the time the pulley hits the hitch to advance it, I am already three parts through my reach, so its not terribly efficient.

Is there another trick that I am missing or do I just have to put up with it this way?

Thanks guys.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Post a picture of your setup.

 

[jmack]

I am currently climbing on a klemheist, which works fantastically, however I would like to have the one handed slack tending ability that my VT offers. Does anybody use a micro with their prussick loop?

I have tried it in several configurations, clipped onto the biner and clipped onto the termination knot, however I find that by the time the pulley hits the hitch to advance it, I am already three parts through my reach, so its not terribly efficient.

Is there another trick that I am missing or do I just have to put up with it this way?

Thanks guys.

ayuh try a shchwabish with a short eye eye, or fer the vt special order a smaller ,or make a short eye eye pictures would be helpful as well i am a huge vt fan fer lanyards btw

 

[old timer]

rope tricks

i somtimes use a prussic loop with micro pulley atached to the working end of my rope to advance my hitch ,works well for me , as you can set its working point by sliding it up until snugs up under the hitch hence almost max advancement yours old timer

 

[Bermie]

I find that using a micro pulley on the main climbing line only really works if you use a friction/cambium saver at your tie in point. If your rope is running over a large radius or rough bark you still need two hands to pull it. At least thats what I've found.
The pulley on the lanyard always works, I wouldn't be without it.

 

[Bearclaw]

Petzle Shunt

I hope that I am not going off topic here, but I was wondering if anyone has used the Petzl shunt on the new 11m lines, especially Poison Ivy
(being 11.7).

Iv'e heard that the Petzl Shunt is basically the little cousin to the Lockjack sport.

So any disadvantages that you can see other than not being able to feed line while tensioned. I know the shunt simply releases unlike the Lockjack when there is tension on the line.

I really think that this would clean up the system.

 

[MrRecurve]

This picture shows the pulley connected to my bowline.

You can see how far you have to pull before the pulley actually hits the hitch and starts to advance it. It becomes a bit of a wasted exercise when you have to pull your full arms reach and only gain a small amount of line.

Maybe I am jaded from using the VT which obviously has instant take-up.
Does anyone have a little trick they would like to share, or is that just the way it is?

I have ditched the VT and moved to the prussick loop in order to speed my ascents, and also to get away from the awful twist it puts into my velocity, however I find myself missing its one handed slack tending ability which is invaluable on limb walks.

I think that I will move to the blakes full time, just need to spend more time practicing with it. I like the idea of being able to ascend prussick style with it, then shorten it up and clip in the pulley for moving about in the canopy.

I also use a VT on my flipline.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Gumneck]

I'm just looking and asking here, but shouldn't your bowline attachment knot be backed up with a figure eight or some other stopper?(maybe you just set this up as an example) Wouldn't an anchor or buntline be a better attachment knot?

Not critiquing you just asking?
Tom

 

[CwbyClmr]

I use a eye n eye tenex prusik cord with my micro. The line coming from the top of the VT goes onto the biner then my micro then the lower line from the VT.
It looks like there is too much line between your micro and your prusik. With it an inch or so from the micro it takes no slack to advance your VT.
I also use a boot ascender to help lessen my upper body energy just to climb. I love it, it saves so much energy. One problem with the boot ascender though, it doesn't work well until you're about 10' off the ground. I usually have one of my guys step on the line till I get high enough for gravity to work with the ascender.

 

[MrRecurve]

I dont feel the need to back up my bowline, as the tail is already doubled using the yosemite technique. I prefer the bowline over a gripping knot as it is easier to remove the crab when you need to redirect.

I know how to tie my vt with the micropulley included, I have been climbing on it for the last 2 years, and I also use a pantin.

I was just wondering if anybody successfully used a micropulley with their prussick loop.

Cheers for the advice guys.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I think what's happening is you have two different needs in mind, easy ascending, and easy working, but one setup won't satisfy both needs.
The Anchor Bridge is a clever way to switch back and forth quickly.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Also, a bowline is only strong when loaded from one side of the loop to the leg of the rope. A bowline is not strong when you pull from one side of the loop to the other! The same is true of a splice, never pull across the loop!
For times there is a load across the loop, a figure 8 loop might be a better choice. But as Dan correctly points out, this is a bad place for a loop.

 

[MrRecurve]

I think what's happening is you have two different needs in mind, easy ascending, and easy working, but one setup won't satisfy both needs.
The Anchor Bridge is a clever way to switch back and forth quickly.

I think that the Blakes will satisfy both requirements, with the ability to prussick up with it, then dress it up short and clip in the pulley when needed.

As for the bowline, I have previously used the triple fishermans, perhaps I should go back to it??

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Fisherman's knot is an excellent choice to attach a rope to a carabiner. If it does get too tight to easily untie, which shouldn't happen on the typical climbing system, just slide it off the carabiner and roll it apart.

The blake's wouldn't be my first choice, it locks of too hard and is hard to advance.

Another solution I've seen, but never tried, on your original question involves attaching a prussic to the standing end of your rope, made out of throwline, to hold the fairlead up to the climbing hitch.

You didn't like the Anchor Bridge?

 

[MrRecurve]

Im going to give the anchorbridge a go today, and see what I think, and as for the blakes, I wont be shifting straight away, I will stick with the Klem until I am sure that I need something different, as I really like the Klem.

 

[Bermie]

Fisherman's knot is an excellent choice to attach a rope to a carabiner. If it does get too tight to easily untie, which shouldn't happen on the typical climbing system, just slide it off the carabiner and roll it apart.

The blake's wouldn't be my first choice, it locks of too hard and is hard to advance.

Another solution I've seen, but never tried, on your original question involves attaching a prussic to the standing end of your rope, made out of throwline, to hold the fairlead up to the climbing hitch.

I have used the system of tying a short piece of thin line to the standing end and snugging the pulley right up under my hitch. It works fine going up or limbwalking, but as I said before, unless you've got a friction saver at the TIP then I can't advance it one handed - could be the blakes binding a little bit, but mostly friction of the rope over the branch at the TIP.

As for Bowlines, I tie mine with a tiny loop and a stopper knot, not that big floppy one in the picture, no problem at all with the crab crossloading.