Mill Motivation

[little possum]

Tried my hand at some free handing today. More noodling than milling..but anyways. Here are a few pictures.

Making the starting cuts with the shorter bar, was not a good idea. Bound up the 6' bar, cause it has a lot of wobble. Then kept clogging up with noodles. Will finish this project with double cutting each side. Caught the 3120 on fire around the muffler at one point. Noodles wouldnt clear, and it was toasty!

This is the motivation to start on a carriage mill build. Just gotta figure out what saw/bar combo to run. And how big of wood I wanna be able to cut.
Opionions on a mill would be greatly appreciated

 

[little possum]

Thought about a 4 stroke powered band saw. But wasnt sure on how many cuts I could get out of a blade? But kinda figure the chainsaw route will be cheaper, since I have a few.
Here are a few pictures of a bandsaw mill that a guy in VA made. Pretty awesome to watch. Thought I had a picture of the whole thing, but apparently not. I think I know where one is though

He had pins in the axle, and removed it so it wouldnt be in the way, and sets the mill closer to the ground

Found the video: http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/171979.htm

The circle mill project hit a road block when the Detroit wouldnt pump fuel...

 

[ptjeep]

I've been doing some milling lately on a alaskan MKIII and really enjoy it. I dedicated my 394 to it and plan to modify it to make it easier to use. With that said, its slow time consuming work with a chainsaw. You definitely have a few saws to choose from but if you plan to make lots of board feet, then i would probably go with a bandsaw of some sort. Just my 2 cents.

 

[little possum]

Really just want a mill for pieces like that big red oak crotch. And to make cants for GTGs. And until I get the circle mill going and set up, this would be a cheaper alternative.


How many cuts can you get out of the blade?

 

[StevenBiars]

It's my understanding (from working toward completing a bandmill myself) that having larger diameter bandwheels and "almost as tight as you can get it" tension on the blade serve to increase the useful life of the blade. On a side note, the teeth of the blade should ride over the edge of the bandwheels, otherwise they'll dull themselves on the bandwheels. If I'm not mistaken, you'll also be milling at a lower RPM than if you used a chainsaw, but since the kerf is smaller, it sometimes *appears* that you're cutting faster. I know I've seen a few guys zipping through wood with homemade mills, and then I've seen a few guys take forever to cut. I suppose in the end it depends on the blade, the engine, and the design.

As for me, I'm building a mill out of things I can scrounge up. I don't plan on sinking a lot of money into it since it's more or less going to be a prototype / learning mill for me.

 

[little possum]

As for me, I'm building a mill out of things I can scrounge up. I don't plan on sinking a lot of money into it since it's more or less going to be a prototype / learning mill for me.

Exactly what I have planned

Thanks for the info

 

[qbilder]

I use a BSM. It cuts a full 30". The blade life depends on the wood being cut. I cut sugar maple mostly & get a lot of blade life, around 500-1000bf/blade at 4/4, twice that with 8/4. An 18" log whittled down to a cant then slabbed through plain sawn 4/4 takes only a few minutes. Each cut is only 20-30 seconds or so. Blades get dull but like chains, are easily sharpened. Lots of folks send blades off to get sharpened & reset, others do it themselves. CSMilling has it's place for sure like irregular & large slabs, but for making typical lumber, a BSM is in a different league. My mill cost around $5G's. I could have built one but really don't have time nor inclination. I'd think less than a grand in salvaged metal & parts could build a very nice mill. A little creativity & an open mind would find many, many possibilities for parts. But a CSM would be nice to have, too, especially a wide slabber.

 

[gemniii]

What qbilder said plus -
There's a big difference between a Carry Saw Mill (CSM) and a Bigger Saw Mill (BSM) for small operations near the same price point. The CSM may be slow but you don't need a road to the tree, or have to drag the tree out in 1 piece. Whereas the BSM shines in making repetitive cuts in one place.

A typical new CSM will cost about $1.5K to $2K (Alaskan, 660, bars and chains), the minimal price point for a new BSM is about $3.5K.

I look forward to using an LT10, but I'm pretty sure my CSM will still get a workout in the woods.

 

[little possum]

Thanks Gemnii and qbilder. May build the CSM for the carriage setup. Then build the bandsaw down the road. Dont really need either. But I know of some sidework I could pick up with either. And it would be something to do with the occasional good logs we run across. Like the big red oak crotchs with lots of limbs, or black walnut, or wormy maple.

A BSM like I linked to earlier, could be pretty easy to scrounge all the parts for. Motor and blades would be the biggest expense.

 

[StevenBiars]

qbilder, how many horsepower is your engine and how wide is your blade?

 

[qbilder]

qbilder, how many horsepower is your engine and how wide is your blade?

16hp, normal 1.25" blade x 158". Same blade as WM LT15.

 

[Can8ianTimber]

What qbilder said plus -
There's a big difference between a Carry Saw Mill (CSM) and a Bigger Saw Mill (BSM) for small operations near the same price point. The CSM may be slow but you don't need a road to the tree, or have to drag the tree out in 1 piece. Whereas the BSM shines in making repetitive cuts in one place.

A typical new CSM will cost about $1.5K to $2K (Alaskan, 660, bars and chains), the minimal price point for a new BSM is about $3.5K.

I look forward to using an LT10, but I'm pretty sure my CSM will still get a workout in the woods.

I always thought CSM meant Chain saw mill and BSM meant Band saw mill. Am I wrong here.

 

[gemniii]

I always thought CSM meant Chain saw mill and BSM meant Band saw mill. Am I wrong here.

No, your right, I should have stuck in a smiley that was a play on words with the acronym.
Cheap Saw Mill?
Canadian Saw Mill?

Better Saw Mill
British Saw Mill?
BobL's Saw Mil?
BIL Saw Mill? (nested acronym)

 

[smokinj]

The first Pic the maple what kind is it?

 

[stipes]

Thought about a 4 stroke powered band saw. But wasnt sure on how many cuts I could get out of a blade? But kinda figure the chainsaw route will be cheaper, since I have a few.
Here are a few pictures of a bandsaw mill that a guy in VA made. Pretty awesome to watch. Thought I had a picture of the whole thing, but apparently not. I think I know where one is though

He had pins in the axle, and removed it so it wouldnt be in the way, and sets the mill closer to the ground

Found the video: http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/171979.htm

The circle mill project hit a road block when the Detroit wouldnt pump fuel...

Would like to make a homemade band saw myself...Power head wouldnt be a prob. Shoot,, would be the cheapest of the project, but with all but the material for the rest would cost a arm and leg for all the steel you gonna have to buy....

 

[little possum]

Motor would be the most expensive part for me
Gotta get on the good side of the welder/scrap yard man... I cut his wood for him.