Milled electricity poles

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OK, here is how they built pole frame houses around here just over 100 years ago.........
First, set out your corners and intermediate poles, then dig your holes. Allow for the size of pole you are going to put in the hole. Measure the depth of each hole and work out where your floor level is going to be. Square the pole so that the part where the building is going to be is square but below the floor level is still the natural round shape of the pole. Set the pole in the ground with the flats in the right line for the walls.
Alternatevly.......Stand all your poles where they should be, then rip the sides in a square of the desired size down to the floor line, set your bearers between the poles and resting on the ledge left between the square and round sections.
Around here the old-timers used Tallow Wood poles and a single layer of Red Mahogany T&G boards just under 1&1/2" thick and about 4" wide set vertically between the floor system Bottom plate and a top plate that carried the roof. The boards were held in place with a triangular moulding of about 2". As the boards shrank they were wedged up tight again and another section of board slipped in the gap at the end.
Over the last 25 years I have worked on a few of these old houses and they are still strong and weather-tight. Not too bad for something twice as old as me!
The old bush-workers that built a lot of these houses would have used the tools that they worked with all the time. An axe, a broad axe (used for squaring sleepers), an Adze and a cross-cut saw. Perhaps a hammer, a couple of nails, a string line rubbed with Mutton fat and powdered charcoal and a plumb-bob to get things perlindicular. A folding 3-foot boxwood rule and a roofing square would have been considered luxuries for some of these blokes.
Lazer levels, power tools, chainsaws, nail guns......Just science fiction stuff way back then.
Gentlemen, we don't know how lucky we are!
Dennis.
 
dennis--i know how to build the bldg---just want to square em--and treat em so they dont rot. if the creosote at bottom, and oil at top will do it--thats what i will do--wish i could find some real creo--
 
Oly, perhaps I didn't make myself clear on one point. Only mill the part of the pole that is out of the ground and not exposed to the weather. Below floor level the poles should be round with all their treatment intact. Above floor level, where the walls are and where the untreated timber will be protected from the weather you can have the pole sawn square or whatever shape you want. What you need to do is keep the weather away from the untreated timber.
Do you folks have Termites where you are? We have about 20 varieties on the East Coast of OZ and some of them are real nasty little buggers. On a quiet night you can hear some of them munching on a Pine frame in a house. They usually move out just before the whole lot colapses around your ears though.
Dennis.
 
Oly, perhaps I didn't make myself clear on one point. Only mill the part of the pole that is out of the ground and not exposed to the weather. Below floor level the poles should be round with all their treatment intact. Above floor level, where the walls are and where the untreated timber will be protected from the weather you can have the pole sawn square or whatever shape you want. What you need to do is keep the weather away from the untreated timber.
Do you folks have Termites where you are? We have about 20 varieties on the East Coast of OZ and some of them are real nasty little buggers. On a quiet night you can hear some of them munching on a Pine frame in a house. They usually move out just before the whole lot colapses around your ears though.
Dennis.

thats a bit plainer--
 
Sorry mate, the old brain just wanders off into the wilderness sometimes:(.
Is this going to be a suspended floor or a concrete slab laid on the ground? If it's slab-on-ground, leave a gap around the base of each pole so you can get some more wood treatment down to the ground-line of the pole, just in case something goes a bit wrong.
Dennis.
 
concrete not right a way--cost!!! but if i do--ill drive large lag screws into the sides of the post where the concrete pours against it--so they are tied together--even of the pole rots below ground----itll stay put--
 
Power poles are like boats, they rot between wind and water. In other words, in the area that gets wet, then dries out, then gets wet again. The bit well above ground will last for many years because it is basically dry all the time and the bit of the butt that is well down in the ground will also be fine because it is always wet. The area about 6" above ground and perhaps 12" to 18" below ground is where the problems usually happen. I would guess that 90% of our hardwood posts and poles will snap off at the ground-line or just below it and this is the area that recieves all the attention from the blokes doing the pole inspection and treatment.
Oh, my acheing back!!!!
Good luck with the shed,
Dennis.
 
Many years ago I worked a tie gang on the railroad. We unloaded thousands of ties that were dripping with fresh creosote. At the end of the day, the fumes made you feel like you had a bad sunburn on your face. It is not very healthy, that's for sure, but I think people have gotten so nuts over health issues that they over-react to things also. Unless you are doing it all day every day, I seriously doubt that sawing these poles is going to subtract from your life. I would definitely not burn them, but they would be great fence boards or posts and I don't think an occasional milling job will hurt anybody. If it is an issue, then just wear a mask to keep the dust out of your lungs.

Some of the older green-treated stuff had arsenic in it and that is a different story.
 

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