Milled my first big slab

[Dustyw]

Milled my first bigger slabs with my chainsaw mill. 25" at the widest part, 3" thick, thinking about making a large live edge coffee table out of it in about 3 years, unless I build a kiln before that. Anybody have any tips to keep the cracking to a minimal? Or any other tips would be appreciated.

 

[Runknpap]

I use roofing tar. to seal up the ends. buy it buy the gallon it will last you a good while. They say and I agree that it is really important to seal the ends as soon as you mill it. if you don't it will start to crack within the week. Just so you understand tho im sure you will have some that will crack, but sealing the ends keeps it very minimal.

 

[Dave Boyt]

What species? Most of the woodworkers I deal with end seal, as Runknpap describes. Once dry, they fill the cracks with something like a turquoise/epoxy mix, and it becomes part of the pattern. Others use "bow ties", but I personally do not like them.

 

[Dustyw]

Oak, going to put it up in the hay mound in the barn and forget about it for a few years. Would getting it kiln dried cause it to crack more?

 

[Runknpap]

They say with white oak you don't want to dry it too fast. And kiln drying well that's pretty darn fast method of drying wood. I air dry all my lumber. call it a labor of love. Oh it may not be smart to just throw it in the barn laying on soft hay either. proper way is to stack and sticker them slabs. It will prevent them from cupping curling twisting.

 

[Brianlol]

I envy u . This is something I've been look to do . Logosol m 8 is something I would love to get

 

[Runknpap]

please don't envy me. I'm not that special lol. everything's done with a chainsaw mill. I would absolutely love to have logosol. But probably will never have that kind of cash laying around.

 

[Dustyw]

Ya I have some cherry stickered and laying flat in the hay mound from last year. No hay in our barn! I don't think its white oak but don't really know my oaks to well.

 

[abbott295]

"hay mound" I think you mean "hay mow." That would have a different meaning for some of us.

 

[Dustyw]

Ya I meant hay "mow".

 

[Tom The Sawyer]

Dustyw,

Although roofing tar would seal the ends of your slab, it has other problems (in my experience). Unless you intend to cut the ends off before you start working the slabs, it will get on everything. Walking by the stack? it'll get on your clothes if you bump it. Stored in a hot area, it may drip. Get it on the surface of your slab, you'll need solvent to get it off and if you sand it the heat from the sandpaper will spread it. I have milled several logs sealed with roofing tar and it was quite a mess.

The product developed for sealing green wood is AnchorSeal although companies like Woodcraft, Bailey's, and others sell their own versions. It is a wax-based emulsion product and cleans up with soap and water. In addition to the ends of the slabs, you should also consider sealing any area with crosscut grain, like knots in the surface of the slab (both sides). The cost of AnchorSeal is minimal compared to the value of your slab, but exterior latex or oil-based paint would be better than roofing tar. YMMV

 

[hopm]

Had not thought about it until mention of Anchor Seal being wax base.....Most of the thin bodied exterior sealers are also wax based. How effective would a heavy coat applied by a garden sprayer be?

 

[Tom The Sawyer]

I have never sprayed end coating but the instructions say "brush. roll or spray" so I am sure it is used that way. One of the benefits of a wax-based coating is that you can still see the grain and, to a sawyer, that is very important. Opaque coatings may hide flaws like an off-center heart or stains indicative of metal in the log.

If the cost is an issue, you might check with any local woodworking stores, clubs, or woodturning groups. It is much cheaper by the 55 gallon drum and some of them purchase it in bulk and then provide it in smaller quantities.