Brmorgan
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Last night I did some figuring on the weight of the log I skidded home that I cut this beam out of. It was between 18-20" diameter at the butt and about 16" at the top, so I figured the log volume based on 18" diameter and 26' length as a rough estimate. This gave me just a hair over 3.6 cubic meters of wood. Air-dried Douglas Fir density seems to be in the 520 KG per cubic meter neighborhood, which gives me 1872 KG. Multiply by 2.2 and I get 4113 LBS, or a little over TWO TONS! This log wasn't particularly dry, either!
I'd like to be able to scan the applicable section of the NLGA rule book but it's got copyright all over it. Or do you already have a copy?
At any rate my rule book has the following for No. 2 structural joists:
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Knots - Too complicated to list everything but the sizes are between 50-55% of the width of the widest face of the piece, the size changes proportionately the closer they are to the centerline of the wide face, or the ends of the piece, because such knots are less structurally damaging than ones near/at the edges or in the middle of the span where the most stress will be on the piece.
Unsound knots - limited to half of allowable knot size
Checks - not limited
Honeycomb/peck - firm; spots or streaks to 1/6th width of the piece
Pitch streaks - not limited
Pockets (pitch or bark) - not limited
Slope of grain - 1 in 6 (actually quite steep, I thought)
Skips - Heavy; 1/8" deep up to 2' length or up to 1/16" deep full-length
Stain - not limited
Torn grain - not limited
Unsound wood - small scattered spots, limited to 1/6th width of the piece
Wane - 1/3rd of any face or average equivalent; or 1/2 of any face for 1/4 length of the piece.
Whitespeck - Firm; limited to 1/3rd volume of the piece.
Shake - 1/2 length of the piece by 1/2 width of the piece (meaning from the edge to the pith on a box-heart-center piece); if through at the end of the piece, considered as a Split (below)
Splits - Medium or equivalent end checks.
Medium is defined as "Equal in length to twice the width of the piece and in no case exceeds 1/6th the length". This means that on an 8" X 8" beam, the maximum split length would be 16". However if the piece was less than 96" long (6 X 16 = 96) the split must be proportionately shorter. A 72" piece would be 3/4 the length, so the maximum split length would be 12" in that case.
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So, clear as mud? LOL. Going by these numbers, No. 2 is essentially the "Stud" grade of timbers and beams. Stud grade itself where lumber is concerned is really a combination of No. 3 / Utility structural defect rules and No. 2 / Standard edgewane/skip rules (to guarantee a good nailing edge).
I just got back to work grading lumber at the mill yesterday after being laid off a year ago at the end of February. It's good to be back at it, and the pace is a little more laid back with a better log quality than before, so it's easier for the most part. I'm pretty sure the lumber inspector will be in sometime next week to make sure I didn't forget everything in the last year, so if I manage to talk to him I'll try to remember to ask about the twist thing. He's conveniently the same fellow that was my instructor all three times I've gone to get/renew my grading ticket. Super nice guy. One time he wanted me to come help him go through a couple of my slings of lumber because "it'll go faster with two people, and if we go faster I might not be as picky!". LOL. I've never failed a check yet though in 7 years.
I have also heard that box heart is hard to dry, I guess I'll get some experience with that soon. Per the grading rules, I thought only splits were allowed inside the cant, and not to the ends? Do you know if that is so? I'm no grader, but trying to learn. I need to cut some #2 or better for the rafters.
I'd like to be able to scan the applicable section of the NLGA rule book but it's got copyright all over it. Or do you already have a copy?
At any rate my rule book has the following for No. 2 structural joists:
-------------------------------------------------------------
Knots - Too complicated to list everything but the sizes are between 50-55% of the width of the widest face of the piece, the size changes proportionately the closer they are to the centerline of the wide face, or the ends of the piece, because such knots are less structurally damaging than ones near/at the edges or in the middle of the span where the most stress will be on the piece.
Unsound knots - limited to half of allowable knot size
Checks - not limited
Honeycomb/peck - firm; spots or streaks to 1/6th width of the piece
Pitch streaks - not limited
Pockets (pitch or bark) - not limited
Slope of grain - 1 in 6 (actually quite steep, I thought)
Skips - Heavy; 1/8" deep up to 2' length or up to 1/16" deep full-length
Stain - not limited
Torn grain - not limited
Unsound wood - small scattered spots, limited to 1/6th width of the piece
Wane - 1/3rd of any face or average equivalent; or 1/2 of any face for 1/4 length of the piece.
Whitespeck - Firm; limited to 1/3rd volume of the piece.
Shake - 1/2 length of the piece by 1/2 width of the piece (meaning from the edge to the pith on a box-heart-center piece); if through at the end of the piece, considered as a Split (below)
Splits - Medium or equivalent end checks.
Medium is defined as "Equal in length to twice the width of the piece and in no case exceeds 1/6th the length". This means that on an 8" X 8" beam, the maximum split length would be 16". However if the piece was less than 96" long (6 X 16 = 96) the split must be proportionately shorter. A 72" piece would be 3/4 the length, so the maximum split length would be 12" in that case.
--------------------------------------------------------------
So, clear as mud? LOL. Going by these numbers, No. 2 is essentially the "Stud" grade of timbers and beams. Stud grade itself where lumber is concerned is really a combination of No. 3 / Utility structural defect rules and No. 2 / Standard edgewane/skip rules (to guarantee a good nailing edge).
I just got back to work grading lumber at the mill yesterday after being laid off a year ago at the end of February. It's good to be back at it, and the pace is a little more laid back with a better log quality than before, so it's easier for the most part. I'm pretty sure the lumber inspector will be in sometime next week to make sure I didn't forget everything in the last year, so if I manage to talk to him I'll try to remember to ask about the twist thing. He's conveniently the same fellow that was my instructor all three times I've gone to get/renew my grading ticket. Super nice guy. One time he wanted me to come help him go through a couple of my slings of lumber because "it'll go faster with two people, and if we go faster I might not be as picky!". LOL. I've never failed a check yet though in 7 years.
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