Milling and drying times

[bigmoose]

I recently purchased a timber king 1220 and a panther pro csm. The timber king is awsome and I ahve not used the csm as of yet. My question for you guys is in redaurd to drying time of the lumber I have cut. Do most of you use a moisture meter and ik so which ones work the best?





Thanks Moose

 

[2treeornot2tree]

If you are going to air dry, you are looking at least a year of dry time on stickers. I have my wood kiln dryed, and then it is ready to use right out of the kiln.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

If you are going to air dry, you are looking at least a year of dry time on stickers. I have my wood kiln dryed, and then it is ready to use right out of the kiln.

That isn't true for where i live, and i'm in what would be about average as far as the US goes. For instance, 5/4 pine will be below 20% in just 2 or 3 months, and then moving it indoors for a few more months get's it down to where a kiln would.

Really, it all depends on thickness, what specie, where you live, and several other factors. On top of that, once dried, no matter how you dry it, it won't stay dried if you don't keep the lumber in a controlled enviroment, like a heated/cooled room.

SR

 

[2treeornot2tree]

most people around here dont mill pine but for barns. And they dont dry it much before they use it.

 

[mikeb1079]

i purchased a pin style moisture meter from woodcraft. i believe it was around 50 bucks. it's worked just fine for me. in my experience and location i have noticed that the old rule of thumb: "1 year of air drying for each inch of thickness" to be a bit conservative. as rob mentioned it depends on what your milling. i have milled walnut and cherry that has been down to 10-12% in maybe 6 months or so. otoh, i have milled oak that is still in the upper teens after seemingly forever. so species has alot to do with it. i would definitely recommend getting a moisture meter, it takes alot of the guesswork out of it. :msp_thumbsup:

 

[Dave Boyt]

I use a pin type moisture meter. Inexpensive and accurate. It has been so hot and dry here (southwest Missouri), that I have been able to get sycamore down to 10% (close to kiln dry) in the open air. White oak, in particular takes time to dry.

Another way to determine moisture content is to take two samples, say around two pounds, and weigh them. Calculations are easier if you trim them so that they weigh the same. Put one sample back in the stack. Dry the other in an oven at around 300 degrees until it is bone dry, then weigh it again. Moisture content equals the change in weight divided by the oven dry weight. For example, a 1-kilogram piece that dries to 0.5 kg (metric is easier than pounds) has a 100% moisture content. From time to time, weigh the sample piece in the stack. If it started out the same weight, you can use a ratio of the weight divided by the .5 kg it will weigh (as determined by the first test piece). For example, when it weighs 0.6 kg, its moisture content is (0.6-0.5)/0.5= 0.2= 20% moisture content. When it weighs 0.54 kg, it's moisture content is (0.54-0.50)/0.50=0.08= 8% moisture content, which is the typical target for kiln dry. On second though, get yourself a pin type moisture meter. In addition to being simpler, your wife won't get upset when she finds a charred piece of wood in the oven.