Milling, long bars and chain sequence

[Lindsay]

Hey all,
I got a quick question. Just started milling and I'm still very green. I've got a 60" bar I want to run on my mill soon. My question is can I run full comp .404 on the 60" bar? or is chip clearance a problem like with cross cutting. Most of the wood will be very dry Aussie hardwoods like yellow/grey box, iron bark and stringey. My saw is a new unmodded MS880.
Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[BobL]

Hey all,
I got a quick question. Just started milling and I'm still very green. I've got a 60" bar I want to run on my mill soon. My question is can I run full comp .404 on the 60" bar? or is chip clearance a problem like with cross cutting. Most of the wood will be very dry Aussie hardwoods like yellow/grey box, iron bark and stringey. My saw is a new unmodded MS880.
Any advice would be much appreciated.

Chip clearance won't be a problem because in those timbers using a 60" bar you won't be making a lot of chips anyway. I use full comp 3/8 on my 60" milling bars and find is stays sharper longer than skip when milling hard wood.

If this is your first entry into milling you are starting on some of the hardest timbers around. Is there a chance you can practice with on something softer and with a smaller bar? If I had started with a 60" bar on stuff that hard I would have chucked it in after the first log.

Also do you know how to progressively set the rakers on a chain. This is essential in very hard wood.

 

[Lindsay]

Thanks for the reply BobL
Ok is progressive raker adjust like what you do with a File-O-plate?
I'm starting out on a 36" bar. Definitly will be on some green stringey or peppermint just to get the hang of things.
The reason I ask is that I'm planing on having a chain buy up and I don't want to buy stuff I don't need.
Got any tips for the hard stuff when I decide to tackle it?

 

[BobL]

Thanks for the reply BobL
Ok is progressive raker adjust like what you do with a File-O-plate?

Yes it is but the File-O-plate generates cutting angles that are quite modest and an 880 can handle much higher angles. In the chain saw forum there is a sticky thread started by me about this that you might want to read.

I'm starting out on a 36" bar. Definitly will be on some green stringey or peppermint just to get the hang of things.
The reason I ask is that I'm planing on having a chain buy up and I don't want to buy stuff I don't need.

36" bar and small peppermints or green stringy are good to start with but I wouldn't "buy up chain". Chain type is a personal thing and it takes a number of cycles of use of different types to decide what you like. I started with 404 skip semichisel but then tried 3/8 square ground before settling on full comp 3/8 semichisel.

Also, what seems to work well on a 36" bar might not be so good on a 60" bar.

I'd suggest just buying a couple of loops of different types of chain and see how you like them.

Got any tips for the hard stuff when I decide to tackle it?

Don't push the saw too much, hard stuff is hard stuff and it is just slow and one has to accept this. Pushing the saw doesn't cut much faster, it overheats the engine and blunts the chain even quicker so you cut slower.

Keep the chain razor sharp - I touch up after every tank full of mix. Even if it feels ok if you are filling your tank, touch up the cutters, just 2 - 3 strokes.

Good luck,

 

[Lindsay]

Unfortunately up here if you want chain that is slightly different you have to ordered a 25ft roll. you cant even get .404 skip tooth chain via the loop which is a pain in the but. So BobL I'm currently running all my saws at 33:1 but because my 880 is still at factory set RPM wise what do you recomend to tach it to? I notice you have one to. Also if you have any thoughts on file angles? 10 degrees seems to be fairly common?

 

[BobL]

Unfortunately up here if you want chain that is slightly different you have to ordered a 25ft roll. you cant even get .404 skip tooth chain via the loop which is a pain in the but.

I suggest you mail order from Rooshooter or MCW - then you can get loops of anything you want as he will make them up to suit you. I get most of my chains from Rooshooter - he provides very good prompt service.

So BobL I'm currently running all my saws at 33:1 but because my 880 is still at factory set RPM wise what do you recomend to tach it to? I notice you have one to.

33:1 seems a bit low for such a new saw or almost any saw for that matter. If you use a modern lube you shouldn't need to run less than 40:1. Unfortunately many of the chemicals added to lube are not designed to burn but to suppress smoke generation by make the particles smaller. I reckon the less lube used the better it is for the operator.

In terms of setting RPM, I usually ignore the RPM at first and just tune the saw by ear ie get it 4- stroking and then richening it up until it just starts to runs smoothly (but not racing), then I use the tacho and bring it back 500 rpm from that point - it will sound a little rougher than usuall but when it is in the cut it will sound smooth again. This can't be done without removing the H screw cap on the carby.

Also if you have any thoughts on file angles? 10 degrees seems to be fairly common?

I use 10º