Milling saw build?

[jmurray]

Long time lurker, thought I would post and get some help and advice. I have a newly acquired husky 298xp, saw is in ok shape, and had some use nothing broke just rough paint. I bought the saw knowing it needed some work but a slow project is much more in my budget than buying a big saw all at once. Did my homework and knew I wanted a 298, 2100, 2100 Husqvarna. Found this one being sold as a 2100 because of starter plate label but no auto oiler. A quick look at the cylinder walls they look good no problems. Saw has had a three pawl flywheel swap sometime in the past and cover from a 2100.

Goal for this saw is millwork, wife is wanting lots of slab furniture and I make gunstocks on the side, getting hard to find someone to slab wood the way I want it. Saw probably won’t be unhooked from mill much have other saws to do the woodcutting.

My question is what I should replace on the saw while I have it torn apart, I know there is always a chance of failure and breakage with old equipment, but I would like to prevent as much as possible. I am thinking a 40”ish bar some trees are 30-35” don’t want to come up short on bar length when I have the saw to run it.

What I’m thinking for parts let me know what I missed or shouldn’t do, carb rebuild, piston ring, wristpin, clips, bore hone, clutch assembly, fuel lines, trigger lock “missing”, on off switch, gaskets, plug, ignition coil, bar, aftermarket filter. I’m sure I am missing some things and I know there are some really hard to find parts on here but I have the time.

I appreciate any help and advice.

 

[upstateny]

Crank Seals, maybe worthwhile to go through the oiler. Also remember to set it up a tid bit richer than your usual crosscutting saws would be

 

[marti384]

If the bore is good, I don't see the point of a hone. Same on the coil and clutch. If compression is still good, no need to change the rings either, in my opinion. Might not hurt to clean the carbon out of the exhaust port, top of piston, ring grooves while it is all apart. I agree on the seals as they are most likely very old.

 

[jmurray]

Thank you both, clutch looks good. Got the saw yanked apart, the cylinder piston are in excellent condition so no honing needed. I going to put all new seals and bearing in saw, don't want to pull apart again if I don't have to. I have a 2100 tank that i want to use for the manual oiler system. It has all the lines and hoses, is there going to be any issue putting the 2100 tank on the 298 case? I need to get a carb kit for it, how do I tell which carb I have?

I'm going to do some bar shopping, what do I need to be looking for, I plan on running a remote oiler on the tip.

How can I test the coil, I knnow this is a really expensive part wasn't sure if it could be rebuilt?

 

[upstateny]

Unsure on the tank. I had the same idea but on my 285/2100. I was looking around on here about bars for milling and some guys are putting a small notch in the tip/bar where they meet and running their aux oiler there. The coil, throw a plug in the boot and pull it over out of the engine should tell you if its at least working.

 

[mdavlee]

Tank should be fine. All of those have auto oilers. The manual button is just a booster. If you're going to change bearings you had to split the case. Seals you can do without splitting it.

 

[jmurray]

Im going to try and do the 2100 tank just for the manual oiler I like that extra feature. I havent' split the case yet, and really don't want to, the crank spins very well, so the bearings feel good. The connecting rod has side to side play on the crank, is this normal or is there a needle bearing there like at the piston? If there isn't supposed to be any side to side play then I need to split the case anyways to replace that bearing. I just don't want to cut any corners on this rebuild, I have several large hardwood trees to be milled so the saw will get a lot of use in a really short time.

I read about cutting the notch in the tip for oiler, didn't know if there was a milling bar that had this feature. Would you run a hard nose bar or a sproket nose since there will be plenty of oil at the tip?

 

[mdavlee]

Up and down play is bad. Side to side isn't as long as it doesn't rock excessively.

 

[jmurray]

Thanks for reply, No up and down, but there is side to side, I will mic it to see how much.

 

[mdavlee]

Well the rod will have some play side to side to self center.

 

[jmurray]

No up down play, side to side play is less than 1/8 inch, no wear is apparent on side of rod or crank so it must be good. So I'm not going to crack the case just do seals. I'm going to go ahead and do new piston rings the top and bottom ring don't seem to have the same gap not sure if that is normal but new rings can't hurt for their price. I'm going to do a carb build if I can figure out which carb I have Chainsawr shows two carb kits. I do need all four anti vib mounts for tank I thought I read somewhere there were several models that used the same mounts but cant recall which ones.

 

[mdavlee]

288 mounts fit. The carb should have the model on it.

 

[upstateny]

Most are running roller tip bars with replaceable tips. The division between the tip and bar is where they are cutting the slot. You can keep the chain tighter on a roller nose than you can on a hard nose (IMO)

 

[Sawdusty]

I wouldn't bother with switching the oil tank out, I found out the hard way that no matter how much oil the saw puts on the bar it all flings off the tip and the aux (bar tip) oiler ends up doing 90% of the oiling, especially on a long bar. I use Oregon Powermatch bars with a sprocket tip, they are pretty inexpensive and hold up well as long as you have enough oil and keep the chain sharp.