Milling saw recommendations 390 vs 3120

[SS396driver]

395xp

 

[SS396driver]

Cut with the 395 today . Heavy saw but the power . 2 more tanks and it's on the mill

 

[CR888]

The weight is not so bad on the mill, and that weight is nice thick steel where is counts and will be appreciated. I think for 'your' situation you certainly bought the 'right' saw. No finicky carb electronics, just proven tech that works. I want to stash a 395xp in a box before the EPA removes them from the shelves.

 

[northwest saws]

My vote was going to be for the 3120 but the 395 should also do the job. I also like the external clutch for the milling, they don't seem to get as bad of noodle bind and heat like the internal ones do. Looks like a nice saw, have fun!

 

[SS396driver]

I played with a small piece . Just to get the feel for the Alaskan mill. Used my 460.

 

[Brent Nowell]

Start using a ladder and find a way to mount the ladder so that it is solidly anchored to the log. Give yourself about a foot and a half of lead on the ladder in and out to get a board with no planning snipe.
Putting the mill directly on top of a log doesn’t work very well, you end up making pieces that are that much more work to be finished properly on the bench

 

[andy]

Start using a ladder and find a way to mount the ladder so that it is solidly anchored to the log. Give yourself about a foot and a half of lead on the ladder in and out to get a board with no planning snipe.
Putting the mill directly on top of a log doesn’t work very well, you end up making pieces that are that much more work to be finished properly on the bench

Yes good call... Would add, the lead overhang of the ladder may vary by mill design.
On my Granberg for example, I need minimum 8"overhang on the starting side of log and can get by with 5" overhang on the finish end of log.
It's good to collect some old ladders at Garage sales.
Having already found a cheap 20' ladder, late this past summer, I found a 32' extension ladder for $20...
Now I have 10' and 16' "rail sets" for a total of under $50.

I both envy don't envy you guys with lots of hardwoods to mill.
Would love to have the materials but not the task of milling them.
Running Cedar is so easy.. bigleaf maple not so much... even though it's relatively soft as hardwoods go.

Cedars can go really wide.
This one is almost 3' at butt end.
Next month I'm set to pull down a 46"DBH cedar... Hopefully it's as solid as this one.
Pardon me....Enough about my stuff.

 

[SS396driver]

Start using a ladder and find a way to mount the ladder so that it is solidly anchored to the log. Give yourself about a foot and a half of lead on the ladder in and out to get a board with no planning snipe.
Putting the mill directly on top of a log doesn’t work very well, you end up making pieces that are that much more work to be finished properly on the bench

I did use a ladder . I notched it for the runners so it wouldn't move and used some pailing wire to secure the ladder to the cleats

 

[SS396driver]

Haven't found to many cedar trees that are big enough to mill.

 

[Husky Man]

Just be sure to let us know, and don't forget the pics, when your CAD strikes again and you get that 3120XP after all

BTW, If you Think/Thought CAD was Bad, wait until you get a full blown case of CSMAD, it's everything CAD is and More, on Steroids


Doug

 

[northwest saws]

Haven't found to many cedar trees that are big enough to mill.

What kinds of cedar you have over there, white cedar?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[SS396driver]

What kinds of cedar you have over there, white cedar?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Red and white . Most I find are great for cutting real small and using in a drawer or closet to keep the bugs out.