Milling with an MS390?

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copperdoc1

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Question for all of the milling experts. I have never done any milling with a chainsaw, and was wondering what you pros thought about using an MS390? I will most likely be cutting pine and other various soft wood, and I dont foresee any with a diameter thicker than 14 inches. The cuts would be very short 4-5ft max, and probably only 1-2 inches thick. These will be used as deck boards for wooden bridges and walkways. Do you think the 390 will hold up or should I look for something more stout? Also this will not be an every weekend thing, just once in a while. Any and all thoughts, taken here. Thanks in advance.
 
Thats is exactly the way it would be used, just here and there, no major production at all. The saw does have a 20in bar and I was thinking about the small alaskan mill. Any more thought?
 
It will work fine for occasional use as long as you listen to the saw. The key to success is a sharp chain and not to put much pressure on the actual saw. People that have damaged that series of saw milling with it usually were way to heavy handed on the rear handle and not patient enough.

In terms of the mini mill, I am not a fan of the Alaskan version because of the single bar mount. I would recommend the next size up mill that allows for a mount on each end of the cut. In terms of power if you do not try and mill larger would than what you have specified it will be fine.
 
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Thats is exactly the way it would be used, just here and there, no major production at all. The saw does have a 20in bar and I was thinking about the small alaskan mill. Any more thought?

I'm also not a fan of the small alaskan - it only looks like half a mill to me because that is what it is. It should be called a "Half Alaskan". If someone is going to lay out money for a mill I always recommend going the full Alaskan, even if it is a small one, that way they can use it in half format if they want, but 90% of the time they end up moving onto a bigger saw which means a bigger bar which means a whole Alaskan mill. That said there are folk here that find that is all they need.:cheers:
 
Read some of my threads on my milling with a JD CS 62 which is about the same power as your 390.

Don't go small with the CSM unless every tree in your geographic area is small. Unless you do NOT make the transition from seeing a forest as standing timber to the stage of seeing a forest as lumber and cants standing vertically with mounds of sawdust for stumps you will want to mill bigger lumber. It's easy to use a larger Alaskan Mark III with a smaller bar. Then get a larger bar'n chain. Then get a larger saw. Then get a peavey, a tractor, a trailer, a bandsaw mill, ... :)

My 4.7 HP saw with a 28" bar and a sharp ripping chain mills 14" diameter hardwood slabs by itself. On 20" diameter slabs it took some work, a gentle push and a backoff if the saw slows down.

Remember - unless you are milling poles you will encounter curves etc. The small Alaskan will take care of that, one that supports the nose end will have to go around everything.

As others had said - be one with the saw grasshoopper.
 
Get a regular Alaskan that's a bit larger than you think you will need. The Alaskans will adjust down for a shorter bar and don't weigh that much even with a bit extra metal off the end.
 
I think a mini-mill is worth having. I like mine, despite it's imperfections. Even if the OP eventually gets milling fever and upgrades to a big mill, a mini-mill would still be handy for making cants and beams.
 
I have been running a 390 for over three years now and easily milled 1500 bf of oak, walnut, cherry and maple without and problems. I have the Alaskan mill with a 24" bar and have no complaints. It doesn't have any issues except for air filtration, so keep the filter element clean. Other than that, it is able to clear the chips easily, but I have a modified clutch cover to allow the chips to fall straight down. Also, and aux. oiler would be a good addition. Plenty of power for occassional use. I use mine to fell, buck, and mill the trees, and I like the power to weight with this size saw. Add the mill to the setup and it is still easily portable. Run a little rich and open the oiler all of the way up. Good saw to learn on. You can always get a bigger saw if you end up milling more than you thought you would. My next saw will be a Husky 395XP or a 660. Don't get the mini mill. The smaller 20"Alaskan is a good size mill and you can always adapt it for a larger saw/bar combo.
I also use standard ripping chain as it cuts fine. I file by hand and let the saw to the milling. Listen to the saw.
 
You all have been a great help. All of the comments were about exactly what I was thinking about the whole deal. Im going to get set up and start milling. I try to put some finished product pics on here when I can, but for now, we are still buried in snow. Maybe I can get some logs into the basement, ha ha. Thanks again for the wealth of knowledge.
 
careful doc

careful doc, this is exactly how it's starts. you think to yourself: hmmm....i've got this 60cc saw, i'll just do a little milling. it might be fun. just a bit here and there.

next thing you know you've got a tandem axle trailer (for logs), 5 chainsaws, 3 homemade jigs, a 1k bandsaw (for resawing), and a thousand board feet of lumber in your backyard! :laugh:

oh, and a wife that thinks your insane. although they do come around when you start making nice things for the nest.

like i said, be careful.;)
 
wives do learn to appreciate having a bandmill in the back yard....

My wife sometimes asks me when I will use it again!!!! I think she likes watching me:blush: It comes in handy(the mill). If we need some wood we fire up the mill. I try to keep a small supply of wood next to it at all times. I use most of the wood green, some I dry. I use the green stuff mostly for garden projects and fence. I use dry stuff for inside.
 

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