Country1
ArboristSite Guru
I've searched every key word I could think of to find some info on making a guide wheel mod to the Alaskan MK3 mill, but cannot find anything. Can someone help me please?
Thanks,
Rick
Thanks,
Rick
MK3 wheel mod
- Thread starter Country1
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dallasm1
ArboristSite Operative
I gotta believe that there are several posts out there on this , from very sophisticated systems to the very simple (like mine here). I am still looking for a better top wheel system than the adjustable bearings that I am using here (scrounged from roller blades, as are they big wheels), but I haven't stumbled upon the right junk pile yet... (I hate to buy stuff). Bobl has some very complete descriptions of wheels systems that he is using.... and I recall others as well.
One of the simplest wheel mods is a single wheel below the bar like this.
This single wheel is on my small mill which has the same bar clamp as a MK3. To do this I remade the bottom half of the clamp. On the MK3 there is probably enough meat in the clamp to drill and tap a thread directly to the bar clamp.
An improvement on one wheel is two bottom wheels like dallasm has
Below bar wheels fixed direct onto the bar clamp like these still have some limitations especially when making the first cuts on a big log because these wheels tend to ride up the log. A better mod is one where the wheels can be extended downwards to make contact with the side of the log that is more vertical.
Above bar wheels are useful to stop the inboard mill vertical(s) from jamming up against the side of the log when milling the lower half of a log. Unless you go with rollers, effectively like Dallasm has done, then these wheels need to moveable in the vertical direction to match up with the thickness of the cuts you are making.
Another alternative is to place above bar wheels on the mill rails. I do not like this because there is then the possibility that the wheels will contact with my mill rails the counter force generated by the saw can move the log rails as well as "racking" the whole mil. I think it is better to have the wheels connected (even if it is by some sort of linkage) as closely as possible to the bar so the bar clamp takes the full force of the saw.
I am in the process of changing the wheels on my small mill that cover all bases described above and will post pics once it is done.
While not a wheel the vertically adjustable rub plate offers less resistance than the sharper edged vertical.
Wheels that work well are much better than skids and reduce operator effort significantly.
This single wheel is on my small mill which has the same bar clamp as a MK3. To do this I remade the bottom half of the clamp. On the MK3 there is probably enough meat in the clamp to drill and tap a thread directly to the bar clamp.
An improvement on one wheel is two bottom wheels like dallasm has
Below bar wheels fixed direct onto the bar clamp like these still have some limitations especially when making the first cuts on a big log because these wheels tend to ride up the log. A better mod is one where the wheels can be extended downwards to make contact with the side of the log that is more vertical.
Above bar wheels are useful to stop the inboard mill vertical(s) from jamming up against the side of the log when milling the lower half of a log. Unless you go with rollers, effectively like Dallasm has done, then these wheels need to moveable in the vertical direction to match up with the thickness of the cuts you are making.
Another alternative is to place above bar wheels on the mill rails. I do not like this because there is then the possibility that the wheels will contact with my mill rails the counter force generated by the saw can move the log rails as well as "racking" the whole mil. I think it is better to have the wheels connected (even if it is by some sort of linkage) as closely as possible to the bar so the bar clamp takes the full force of the saw.
I am in the process of changing the wheels on my small mill that cover all bases described above and will post pics once it is done.
While not a wheel the vertically adjustable rub plate offers less resistance than the sharper edged vertical.
Wheels that work well are much better than skids and reduce operator effort significantly.
Last edited:
dallasm1
ArboristSite Operative
I like that single wheel. I would like something like that for my top wheel, but I want a setup that does not detract too much from the cutting capacity of the mill. The bottom wheels of mine are only intruding 1/4" into the available area, and the top bearings only 1/8". The bearings are not the best solution, but I had them on hand. Ultimately I want a vertically adjustable top wheel that only intrudes about 1/4". If I used another rollerblade wheel, it would have to be on a vertically adjustable swing arm of some type...
I agree 100%.
You might then be interested in my small mill wheel mods because that is what I am doing.
dallasm1
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, I sure would be...although if your BIL is involved, I would not be able to duplicate the fabrication!
Let me assure you there is no BIL involved - its an all steel construction - Worked on it this morning, but the new camping oven has had to take precedent!
Country1
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks for the responses. That's exactly what I was looking for.
I haven't got the mill yet, but it's on it's way. After a little practical experience with it. I'll take your suggestions and come up with a wheel mod.
Thanks again.
I haven't got the mill yet, but it's on it's way. After a little practical experience with it. I'll take your suggestions and come up with a wheel mod.
Thanks again.
