Mobil 1 MX2T
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Racing 2T is MX2T repackaged and dyed red.
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Mobil 1 MX2T............or the new Racing 2T.............has gotten nothing but thumbs up on this site..............good choice!!!
BostonBull
Addicted to ArboristSite
What is the concensus ont he new Stihl HP SUPER? They say that their tests show it is better than regular oil, Amsoil, and even Mobil synthetic?
NoDipNoMore
ArboristSite Member
Last year when Auto Zone was switching over to 2T, I was able to pick up about a case of MX2t. Great stuff...use it in everything at 40:1.
I even use it in my "AHRMA" vintage motocrosser a 1971 CZ 250.
The only downside was the lack of 'DYE" indicating the gas and oil was mixed.
Just last week I had to dump 3 gallons in my truck because I couldn't remember if I added oil or not. No problems with the new stuff.
I even use it in my "AHRMA" vintage motocrosser a 1971 CZ 250.
The only downside was the lack of 'DYE" indicating the gas and oil was mixed.
Just last week I had to dump 3 gallons in my truck because I couldn't remember if I added oil or not. No problems with the new stuff.
litefoot
Addicted to ArboristSite
OK, other than your saw not burning up, which I assume most won't if you use proper mix ratios, why would Mobil MX2T be called "great stuff" as compared to regularl Stihl or Husky dino oil?? Has anyone here actually mic'ed there cylinder bore or piston rings to compare the difference after long-term use of different pre-mixes? Does your saw run smoother? What is it? Just askin...
sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
In my experience the piston and exhaust port stay cleaner and the oil is actually cheaper than the Stihl or Husky oil.
oldsaw
"Been There, Milled That"
sedanman said:
No kidding. I hesitated at dumping $8 on a quart of oil until I did the math...then I bought two. It's a bargain.
Mark
litefoot
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oh, I guess I didn't realize the Mobil is less expensive. That certainly would be one good thing to consider.
So, at what point does a person switch from dino to synth, or is it ok from the get-go with a new saw since there aren't 4-stoke issues (i.e. as valve seating) to worry about? And are there warranty issues?
So, at what point does a person switch from dino to synth, or is it ok from the get-go with a new saw since there aren't 4-stoke issues (i.e. as valve seating) to worry about? And are there warranty issues?
sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
As far as warranty issues goes the Magnuson-Moss act states that for a company to require the use of their brand spare parts or lubricants to maintain a warranty then they must either prove that there is no after market equivalent or provide the parts and lubricants for free for the duration of the warranty. This applies specifically to cars but the general understanding is that a single lawsuit could attach it to all sorts products. You would not be denied warranty fro using a non-oem oil.
Stihl oils are of very mediocre quality, but also are expensive. This may change with the introduction of their new Ultra line.
JUDGE1162
ArboristSite Operative
I got a bottle of the mobil ! I like it no hard data on if it is better but the saw runs good on it and the saw seems cooler no hard fact on that but I like it
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
BostonBull said:
I like the HP Super, but run all my stuff on the HP Ultra - the full synthetic. On the other hand, I service saws that have been run by pros for 10 years on the older "orange bottle" dino oil with no oil related issues... so...
As to Stihl oil being "expensive"... if you are buying the oil in 1 gallon mix bottles, then you are certainly paying for the convenience... Stihl also sells oil in gallons, 5 gallons, and 50 gallon drums, and there is a big drop in the cost/gal of mix as you move up into the bulk.
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B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've pretty much have used Stihl orange at 50:1 for years with no problems, but am considering using something like UP Ultra or maybe Mobil 1 2T at the same ratio.
I thought I saw an answer to this question before but couldn't find it:
Does 2 stroke oil, esp synthetic, have a finite shelf life once opened if still sealed tightly?
I thought I saw an answer to this question before but couldn't find it:
Does 2 stroke oil, esp synthetic, have a finite shelf life once opened if still sealed tightly?
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wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Was talking to a local Stihl dealer this week about the two synthetics, the full synthetic has a 21day biodegradable lifespan, out of the bottle(spilled). In an unopened, factory sealed container they figured it would be indefinite.
If I ordered a case (48 1gal mix) bottles I could try it. Only way they order I suppose, I passed.
Lots of good reading here, going with a larger quantity purchase(gal, or pail) and running the whole herd at 40:1 sounds efficient.
If I ordered a case (48 1gal mix) bottles I could try it. Only way they order I suppose, I passed.
Lots of good reading here, going with a larger quantity purchase(gal, or pail) and running the whole herd at 40:1 sounds efficient.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
I quizzed Stihl (corporate) about the same question last week and the answer was murky at best... yes, it has a 21 day biodegrade to 80% when exposed to infinite oxygen, but the difference between an opened and resealed container isn't as clear, and they haven't given me a good answer yet! I have mine in a gallon container, air squeezed out as I use it. I figure it's o.k.... but I want them to tell me so.
wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lakeside53 said:
If I had a lull in use, would the bulk container become a liability?, at which point, pouring the remaining oil into quart bottles filled to the brim would eliminate the free air. Brainstorming.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
I don't know. It would seem to me that the small amount of air in the bottle top would have little effect on the oil if resealed. Maybe we have to treat it like olive oil and keep it in the fridge??:monkey:
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
How about those accordian collapsing plastic jars that are used for storing wood finishes?
(Cept everytime I have tried those for danish oil types finishes they leaked.)
With wood finishes that are expensive and tend to crosslink quickly with oxygen I usually decant into smaller containers to deal with the air issue. I also use bloxygen, but of course that is too expensive to use for this application. A friend works in a lab and says if you have the right cylinder, inert gases are very cheap to buy (argone, I think). Could simply displace the air after using the big oil container. Overkill here of course.
(Cept everytime I have tried those for danish oil types finishes they leaked.)
With wood finishes that are expensive and tend to crosslink quickly with oxygen I usually decant into smaller containers to deal with the air issue. I also use bloxygen, but of course that is too expensive to use for this application. A friend works in a lab and says if you have the right cylinder, inert gases are very cheap to buy (argone, I think). Could simply displace the air after using the big oil container. Overkill here of course.
