MS 400 muffler

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Woodchuckels

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I'm in the process of breaking in my MS 400. Was thinking of getting a a Bark Box or Straight Shot. But after pulling off the front cover of the muffler I noticed there was no restrictions other than the screen in it.
Will I see much gain if I replace the cover or even just muffler mod it?
 
The other thing is.. there is nothing special about these front exit muffler plates. Muffler mods work by increasing outlet area. If you increased the factory outlet location the same as a bark box the results will be similar. They are really just bling IMO. The straight shot also aims the exhaust directly at the case, which isn't a good design IMO.
With that said some guys in the know suggest the front outlet covers make the saw have less ability to lean on the dogs.
 
I'm in the process of breaking in my MS 400. Was thinking of getting a a Bark Box or Straight Shot. But after pulling off the front cover of the muffler I noticed there was no restrictions other than the screen in it.
Will I see much gain if I replace the cover or even just muffler mod it?
So you want the muffler inside area as large as possible to recieve and relieve the compressed gass from the cylinder.
The outlet should ideally be about one inch in diameter at 70cc, you do the math, thats about 33% of the cc.
 
I put a straight shot on my 400 and noticed much quicker throttle response and slightly more top end power. For $68 I feel it was well worth it, well built. The sound doesn’t bother me with muffs on.
 
So you want the muffler inside area as large as possible to recieve and relieve the compressed gass from the cylinder.
The outlet should ideally be about one inch in diameter at 70cc, you do the math, thats about 33% of the cc.
Thanks for the reply. Not sure which way I will go.
 
I put a straight shot on my 400 and noticed much quicker throttle response and slightly more top end power. For $68 I feel it was well worth it, well built. The sound doesn’t bother me with muffs on.
Thanks for the reply, the throttle response is already insanely quick. If it gets any quicker it will rev when you start to think about it.
 
If the 400 doesn't perform how you would like, there are bigger saws that will. 400s sell for $950. Add a bark box and you are at $1100. A 462 is $1200, and still around is the 461 at $1090. But if noise is really what you want, then get the bark box.
Got mine for $800.00 out the door. Work part time for a John Deere dealership. Not saying that I don't like the performance because I do. But if I can get more performance out of it why not. Could care less about making it louder. I like it's handling and overall size. For a firewood saw it's going to be hard to beat.
 
If the 400 doesn't perform how you would like, there are bigger saws that will. 400s sell for $950. Add a bark box and you are at $1100. A 462 is $1200, and still around is the 461 at $1090. But if noise is really what you want, then get the bark box.
If 461s are still available in Nth America grab them. They are becoming collectors items just like 660s over here (Oz).
 
If 461s are still available in Nth America grab them. They are becoming collectors items just like 660s over here (Oz).
They were no where to be found in my state a year ago when I bought my ms500.

One thing that is potentially being overlooked on this specific saw is the magnesium piston and impact of modding the muffler on skirt Temps. Mag expands more than aluminum...and exhaust tuning will impact cylinder Temps when impact skirt Temps.
 
They were no where to be found in my state a year ago when I bought my ms500.

One thing that is potentially being overlooked on this specific saw is the magnesium piston and impact of modding the muffler on skirt Temps. Mag expands more than aluminum...and exhaust tuning will impact cylinder Temps when impact skirt Temps.
This brings up a good question. Maybe someone can answer that.
Thanks
 
This brings up a good question. Maybe someone can answer that.
Thanks
Could have the opposite effect as well which is cooling the skirt, which in turn ads skirt to bore clearance.

IMO the gains to be had aren't worth the risk on this saw at this time. Are pistons and jugs available if something goes south?

I get the want to mod things. Motorcycles are more my jam when it comes to that.
 
Could have the opposite effect as well which is cooling the skirt, which in turn ads skirt to bore clearance.

IMO the gains to be had aren't worth the risk on this saw at this time. Are pistons and jugs available if something goes south?

I get the want to mod things. Motorcycles are more my jam when it comes to that.
Thanks for the reply. I grew up on the farm in the 50's and 60's. We were always looking for ways to make a piece of equipment more usable. I realize that gains in performance would probably be hard to see when cutting firewood. I probably would not even be thinking of doing something like this if it wouldn't be for the dang internet and all the sites that get you to thinking about stuff like this.🤔
 
Empirical evidence tells me the straight shot on my 400 is a good thing. More power immediately.

I run longer bars to lessen fatigue during long days cutting up on the mountain.

To each his own. I can’t stand short bars anymore.
 
Thanks for the reply. I grew up on the farm in the 50's and 60's. We were always looking for ways to make a piece of equipment more usable. I realize that gains in performance would probably be hard to see when cutting firewood. I probably would not even be thinking of doing something like this if it wouldn't be for the dang internet and all the sites that get you to thinking about stuff like this.🤔
You would definitely see the gains cutting firewood, especially bucking up big stuff.
 
Empirical evidence tells me the straight shot on my 400 is a good thing. More power immediately.

I run longer bars to lessen fatigue during long days cutting up on the mountain.

To each his own. I can’t stand short bars anymore.
How long of bar and are you running a skip tooth?
 
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