MS 660 Chain Running at Idle

[Ayyy Lmaoooooo]

My 660 chain is running at idle when it will run. I've gotten new clutch springs and checked the clutch to make sure everything is working as it should. It is cleab and nothing is worn. The chain moves at normal idle speeds. I've adjusted the carb and it still won't run. When I start it the chain will immediately spin and it will run with the choke on. When I blip the throttle it will die. When I go to start it again I'll have to set the choke again (master lever to the bottom) to get more gas in the cylinder. I'm at a loss as to how I should go about fixing it. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Check your master control lever and all linkages, then take a look at your carb.

If drive system is in order and you have the proper chain tension, it shouldn’t move if idle is set right (2500ish rpm).

 

[Big_Wood]

did you have the clutch off? if so, how did you tighten it back on before installing your clutch drum? sounds to me like your clutch may have loosened off against your clutch drum. the e-clips can be a real bear to get off after that. would explain the running issues except the running on choke thing. another common issue with stihls is the shoes wear where the springs connect. this really only happens to super high hour saws though and new springs don't fix it. your clutch would be sloppy though and it would be very easy to tell. sounds like you got some tuning to do as well but with a clutch issue is not the time to do it.

 

[Ayyy Lmaoooooo]

did you have the clutch off? if so, how did you tighten it back on before installing your clutch drum? sounds to me like your clutch may have loosened off against your clutch drum. the e-clips can be a real bear to get off after that. would explain the running issues except the running on choke thing. another common issue with stihls is the shoes wear where the springs connect. this really only happens to super high hour saws though and new springs don't fix it. your clutch would be sloppy though and it would be very easy to tell. sounds like you got some tuning to do as well but with a clutch issue is not the time to do it.

Check your master control lever and all linkages, then take a look at your carb.

If drive system is in order and you have the proper chain tension, it shouldn’t move if idle is set right (2500ish rpm).

First off, I tightened the clutch as hard as possible with a breaker bar, so I do believe it isn't up against the drum. The shoes are almost new and the holes in them are holes and not slots. The interior of the drum and exterior of the shoes are clean. I've not check the throttle linkages, and did have a problem with the master lever staying at the bottom, so I think that'll be my next step; looking at the linkages. Thanks for the advice so far, guys!

 

[Big_Wood]

yer probably running the wrong oiler worm gear in it then. only way that chain turns is if the drum connects somehow. the master control levers and linkages should be left alone til you figure the chain spinning at idle thing as your running issues could just be cause by that issue.

 

[Ayyy Lmaoooooo]

yer probably running the wrong oiler worm gear in it then. only way that chain turns is if the drum connects somehow. the master control levers and linkages should be left alone til you figure the chain spinning at idle thing as your running issues could just be cause by that issue.

****. It did all go wrong after I replaced a broken oiler.
I'm gonna put some paint on the clutch drum to see if it is rubbing.

Thanks, man!

 

[Ozhoo]

That's your 2nd worm gear on a new saw right? I'm suspecting that the case bearing wasn't set at the correct depth.... or was that a different saw? I have old man syndrome.

 

[Big_Wood]

there are 2 worm gear options, one is the light tan colour and way more common. the other is a darker colour. they've ****ed me around a time or two. one will get pinched behind the clutch.

 

[Ayyy Lmaoooooo]

That's your 2nd worm gear on a new saw right? I'm suspecting that the case bearing wasn't set at the correct depth.... or was that a different saw? I have old man syndrome.

Ye, it was that one. I'm not sure it's the oiler, but I'll update tomorrow when I have a chance to check. I'll compare it to the other. The only thing I'm not sure of is that it took time to start catching, and didn't fix after I tightened it up again.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Seems like you may have a couple of issues to look at.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

yer probably running the wrong oiler worm gear in it then. only way that chain turns is if the drum connects somehow. the master control levers and linkages should be left alone til you figure the chain spinning at idle thing as your running issues could just be cause by that issue.

Agreed that the drum issue needs to be figured out, but shouldn’t a saw at least start and be able to be dropped into idle? Seems like he’s not getting there for some reason.

Wonder if the saw will run at all with the bar off?

 

[Big_Wood]

Agreed that the drum issue needs to be figured out, but shouldn’t a saw at least start and be able to be dropped into idle? Seems like he’s not getting there for some reason.

the engine is being loaded at idle because of something not fitting right.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Yep, something is jacked up. Curious as to why he had to replace the oiler in the first place.
What was your experience with worm gears? I thought all 1122 gears interchange.

 

[Ayyy Lmaoooooo]

Agreed that the drum issue needs to be figured out, but shouldn’t a saw at least start and be able to be dropped into idle? Seems like he’s not getting there for some reason.

Wonder if the saw will run at all with the bar off?

Saw will run without the bar, but dies after I rev it and doesn't die after I turn it over with the master lever bottomed out. I'm guessing it's running hella lean atm. I think I may have had the washer behind the clutch backwards, but I didn't see it when I took it off. The drum now has about 1 mm of wiggle room on the crankshaft. I also broke my piston stop and it's kinda in the exhaust atm, so that'll have to be taken out probably.