MS192t service manual and repair

[marinegrunt]

Can someonever please point me in the right direction for the service manual for a 192t?

I've had the saw for about 4 years and has seen heavy use. About a year ago it wouldn't idle. I rebuilt carb but didn't help. The only way to keep it running was by playing with the trigger the whole time so it has been sitting for awhile. I have a couple hickory trees close to the house that need cut down so really need my top handle saw back. I've been thinking about just going completely through the saw. I already have a new piston and rings that I purchased a year ago. I also have another carb kit. I'm going to order the seals, fuel lines, filter, etc. Is there anything else I should get? I'm sure I can get bearings locally if needed.

I am going to test compression here in a bit before tearing piston out. What would be a good enough reading?

Also, while I have it torn apart any mods I should consider?

Thanks for the help. I haven't posted much but threads from this site have saved my butt over the years. I appreciate all of the info.

 

[SeMoTony]

Can someonever please point me in the right direction for the service manual for a 192t?

I've had the saw for about 4 years and has seen heavy use. About a year ago it wouldn't idle. I rebuilt carb but didn't help. The only way to keep it running was by playing with the trigger the whole time so it has been sitting for awhile. I have a couple hickory trees close to the house that need cut down so really need my top handle saw back. I've been thinking about just going completely through the saw. I already have a new piston and rings that I purchased a year ago. I also have another carb kit. I'm going to order the seals, fuel lines, filter, etc. Is there anything else I should get? I'm sure I can get bearings locally if needed.

I am going to test compression here in a bit before tearing piston out. What would be a good enough reading?

Also, while I have it torn apart any mods I should consider?

Thanks for the help. I haven't posted much but threads from this site have saved my butt over the years. I appreciate all of the info.

Brad Snelling says muffler mod, advance timing by filing 1/3 or 1/2 of key to rotate magnets on flywheel an adjustable carb will be needed and if the price time for all that seems much, I hear the 200 is a better saw.

 

[marinegrunt]

Thanks for the tips. I'm just a hobbyist who heats with wood so a 200 isn't justifiable. Don't those cost like a grand or more? I've heard they are awesome tho. Most of my cutting is on the ground. If I buy another saw my wife will probably kill me anyways. My latest purchase was a 362 so no new saw for me for awhile.

My carb is adjustable so should be good there. I've searched for a new carb in the past but couldn't locate one. I'll probably just rebuild current carb again for now.

Compression is right at 100 psi. I'm guessing that's low. Time to tear it apart.

 

[jr27236]

Low indeed, maybe pressure/vac test it before you tear it down to make sure you have no leaks anywhere. You can look up videos on YouTube on how to do this. Then I would check lower end bearings, but if all is good I'd do the new piston and wrist pin bearing. MM and tune carb properly. Lots of guys will chime in though who have personal experience on working on these, unfortunately I owned mine for a week and sold it (flip).good luck

 

[ray benson]

Check your inbox for ipl and service manual.

 

[marinegrunt]

Thanks for the help Jr. I might just go ahead and replace seals and bearings while I have it apart. I'm hoping this saw will last me a long time so would rather spend a little more so I don't have to mess with it for awhile. I love this saw for in tree work.

Do I have to have that special tool to remove flywheel or is there a way to make your own? I saw where you don't use an impact or you strip the key or something like that.

Ray....thank you much!

Another question but I might be better off starting another thread. Is there a way to get rid of the easy start without replacing the whole assembly? The one where you pull cord halfway slowly and then pull. I can't stand it. I have a 251c that has it and I'd love to do away with it.

 

[SeMoTony]

The key is only a locating device. The cone angle & pressure from nut are the keeping in place aspect. Turn in the direction of rotation of sprocket to loosen. Rod is very light weight/duty. Rope in cylinder used on larger saws not good to resist crank rotation. A light (low pressure in 3/8" impact) has worked for me. YOUR milage May vary.bsnelling has a thread about these top handled saws, search may help in answering questions you've asked & ones you don't know of yet.

 

[marinegrunt]

Got it torn apart after work yesterday and have been cleaning everything up. Cylinder wall looks and feels to be in good shape. No score marks or anything.

I have a question about the crank seals. There seems to be 2 different sets. One for when you're not splitting the case and one set for when you split it. I ordered the set without splitting case before I realized there were 2 sets. Does it really matter? Will those work or should I order the others?

 

[HarleyT]

 

[cambl]

Either seal will work, but I use the 1205 version. Find a good used 192T (not TC) recoil, and it will be the older style without the easy start feature.

Use the red Dirko sealant when you put the pan back on the cylinder and make sure to replace the impulse hose.

 

[marinegrunt]

Thanks guys.

I just can't seem to picture why there would be 2 different seal styles. Is one a tad bit smaller so it's easier to slide on when you don't fully disassemble? I'm tempted to order the other set too just to compare. I'm just curious what the difference is.

I probably should've started another thread for the easy start question. My 251c has the easy start. I assume I order the recoil from a 250 or 251 without the c?

Next up is my 290 but that's for another day.

Thanks!

 

[NBsawman]

Be sure to inspect the rubber intake boot carefully before reinstalling it. These boots are a real weak point in the design and are prone to hairline cracks that suck air.

Steve

 

[marinegrunt]

Thanks for the tip NB.

I've also read that the pump piston o ring on the carb is prone to failing. I'm not sure how common it is tho. The manual just says to take the throttle lever out and take the pump piston out. There'seems a little brass cap that needs to be removed. Does anyone know how to get that out? It's tapped into the carb. Might be hard to get that cap out without damaging it tho. I've looked for a whole new carb but $50 was the cheapest I can find. There's only a few places that carry it. Doesn't seem like it's an easy one to find. I figure I'll try the old one first.

I hate waiting for parts in the mail. I'm always anxious to get things back together to see how they run. Too bad Stihl dealers don't have a "prime membership" for shipping.

 

[cambl]

You can pry out that brass cap with a pick or small punch. Stihl sells the accelerator kit with piston and o-ring, but it's not cheap and I'm pretty sure your dealer won't stock it. There are several versions of the 192 carb- S135, S258, etc and I've found them used on ebay pretty cheap.

 

[marinegrunt]

Thanks for the tip on the brass cap Cambl. I got it out along with the pump piston. I decided I'm going to try the jb weld fix like many did on the 200t. The carb is a little different but I would guess similar. I'm not too worried about losing a little throttle response on it because I'm not up in a tree a whole lot so it won't be used that much. After cleaning up the cylinder I did notice a couple tiny pits in the wall. The bigger one is only the size of the tip of a toothpick. That's another reason I did the jb carb fix. I didn't want to drop $65 on a carb and then find out the cylinder won't work. If I have to buy a new cylinder, and drop money on the carb, I'd probably be better off buying a new top handle saw. I don't think the pits will be an issue tho. If compression does end up being okay I might end up ordering a carb.

Got my crank seals in so going to start getting it back together. Everything else seems to be in good shape. I think I'll advance the timing and muffler mod it too. Has anyone ever ported a 192 or is it too small of a saw or too cheap of one to even mess with?

 

[marinegrunt]

Compression now at 135. Better than the 100 I previously had. The 135 is on a cold engine. Hopefully the pump piston fix on the carb works. Forgot to vacuum test it and pretty much have it back together. Still plan on it just to see. If all is good with head I might go ahead and order a new carb.

I advanced the timing and plan on the muffler mod as well. I've always ran a 14' bar on it but think I'll pick up a 12".

 

[JD Ryon]

Check your inbox for ipl and service manual.

may i have the ms 192t ipl and service manual as well? thanks

 

[young bucker]

I had a 192 for climbing..immediately went and sold it and found 2 ms200s and never looked back..the ms200 are tough little powerhouses..if a guy can find them. Usually 5-6 hours in the Spurs if I’m not coastal falling.

 

[ray benson]

may i have the ms 192t ipl and service manual as well? thanks

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[SpockM]

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Could I please get one too? I just picked up two of these guys, but they are in pieces...