Ms193t question

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stihlman27

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York Pennsylvania
First question is I'm looking to put a small dog spike in the saw. It's used as a limbing saw but I just don't care for the plastic spikes that it does have. I have spikes ranging from big to small laying around but I don't have the screws for it. Can someone point me in a good direction as to what kind they are or if it has a part number of some sort.
Also second question is I'm running a 14" bar but the chain that came on it is 3/8 LP by .043, I hate the safer chains that come on any saw so I'd like to put a more aggressive chain on prolly a semi chisel chain. What all would I have to do in order to run a semi chisel? New bar and sprocket or just new bar?
 
Ok so it has a semi chisel chain on it when new. So I take and file down depth gauges past spec. This makes this chain just as agressive as any semi chisel chain. If you go to a .50 gauge full chisel chain it will cut a wider kerf taking more power to pull the chain. My advice is to keep it on the chain size it came with.
 
I put that spike on mine. IIRC, I pointed at the 150 and told the dealer to order me that spike and the screws. It lines up perfectly with the plastic spikes. It only sticks out maybe an eight to a quarter of an inch but seems to work well.

I'm happy with the chain I got from the dealer. The link paint looks more yellow than green. I don't know what chain It is but It is a 3/8 pico semi chisel and the depth guides do not look like safety chain. It can take more of a bite than my dog of a 193 can. If you want a better cutting chain, I would think you would want to go to a chisel chain.

My saw came with a 14" 050 bar, 3005 000 4809. The sprocket doesn't know how thick the drive links are, so you would only need to change the bar.
 
I put that spike on mine. IIRC, I pointed at the 150 and told the dealer to order me that spike and the screws. It lines up perfectly with the plastic spikes. It only sticks out maybe an eight to a quarter of an inch but seems to work well.

I'm happy with the chain I got from the dealer. The link paint looks more yellow than green. I don't know what chain It is but It is a 3/8 pico semi chisel and the depth guides do not look like safety chain. It can take more of a bite than my dog of a 193 can. If you want a better cutting chain, I would think you would want to go to a chisel chain.

My saw came with a 14" 050 bar, 3005 000 4809. The sprocket doesn't know how thick the drive links are, so you would only need to change the bar.
Thanks for the info I'll look into that dog spike
 
I put that spike on mine. IIRC, I pointed at the 150 and told the dealer to order me that spike and the screws. It lines up perfectly with the plastic spikes. It only sticks out maybe an eight to a quarter of an inch but seems to work well.

I'm happy with the chain I got from the dealer. The link paint looks more yellow than green. I don't know what chain It is but It is a 3/8 pico semi chisel and the depth guides do not look like safety chain. It can take more of a bite than my dog of a 193 can. If you want a better cutting chain, I would think you would want to go to a chisel chain.

My saw came with a 14" 050 bar, 3005 000 4809. The sprocket doesn't know how thick the drive links are, so you would only need to change the bar.
She do you by chance have a picture of that spike on your saw that you could post for me? I'd like to see what it looks like. I thought I had some smaller ones laying around but all I have is bigger ones for my 391
 
Stihlman27, if you want to trade the 043 bar and 043 chain that came on your saw, I have an extra 14" 3/8Picco 050 bar and 63 PS3 50 chain(99% sure, just checked it to a NiB PS3 I bought, it came with the saw) up for grabs in FLorida. I've been wanting to swap out my ms193t B&C to the 043. PM message me some pics, and I'll send you some too. Supposedly, PS3 green safety chain has faster cut times than comparable picco yellow chains.

Also, take a look at the 1123 664 0501 if you like 'dem big dawgs with big ol' teef'

The screws: 9032 341 0980
Arn't those are the aluminum crankcase screws? While I agree they are better, he will have to very carefully use a tap(forgot the thread-type) beforehand to get the plastic out and thread them in without going too far and puncturing the tank, so there is no possibility of stripping threads out when halfway in. They do hold much better than the self-tapping 'wood'-thread 9074 477 4130 screws, though.
 
Stihlman27, if you want to trade the 043 bar and 043 chain that came on your saw, I have an extra 14" 3/8Picco 050 bar and 63 PS3 50 chain(99% sure, just checked it to a NiB PS3 I bought, it came with the saw) up for grabs in FLorida. I've been wanting to swap out my ms193t B&C to the 043. PM message me some pics, and I'll send you some too. Supposedly, PS3 green safety chain has faster cut times than comparable picco yellow chains.

Also, take a look at the 1123 664 0501 if you like 'dem big dawgs with big ol' teef'


Arn't those are the aluminum crankcase screws? While I agree they are better, he will have to very carefully use a tap(forgot the thread-type) beforehand to get the plastic out and thread them in without going too far and puncturing the tank, so there is no possibility of stripping threads out when halfway in. They do hold much better than the self-tapping 'wood'-thread 9074 477 4130 screws, though.
So which screw set should I get?
 
Personally I'd go with
IMG_2570.jpg

1x 1123 664 0501 - "D" shaped dawg with longer middle teeth
2x 1129 664 2400 - machine thread screws for MS200T
and the correct theadpitch tap from Home Depot/Lowes. Be sure you tap perpendicular and do not go too far in - mark the thread depth with a sharpie and remember after you get it started, its half-turn, then back a quarter. rinse & repeat. Tree guy I used to work with said the machine threads hold much better and don't strip out as easy when you change the chaincatch out for the 10+ time. Only negative was running a 16" bar will only give you 14" of cutting space, however the plus side is chips tend to clear the chaincover instead of rolling around the drivesprocket.

Or if you want to go official stihl, per mediacat for the ms192t
1x 1129 664 0500 - bumper spike (dawg)
2x 9074 477 4130 - self tapping screw (wood-thread)

Send me a msg if you want to swap 043 B&C for my 050 B&C.
 
Personally I'd go with
IMG_2570.jpg

1x 1123 664 0501 - "D" shaped dawg with longer middle teeth
2x 1129 664 2400 - machine thread screws for MS200T
and the correct theadpitch tap from Home Depot/Lowes. Be sure you tap perpendicular and do not go too far in - mark the thread depth with a sharpie and remember after you get it started, its half-turn, then back a quarter. rinse & repeat. Tree guy I used to work with said the machine threads hold much better and don't strip out as easy when you change the chaincatch out for the 10+ time. Only negative was running a 16" bar will only give you 14" of cutting space, however the plus side is chips tend to clear the chaincover instead of rolling around the drivesprocket.

Or if you want to go official stihl, per mediacat for the ms192t
1x 1129 664 0500 - bumper spike (dawg)
2x 9074 477 4130 - self tapping screw (wood-thread)

Send me a msg if you want to swap 043 B&C for my 050 B&C.
Ok thanks for the info I think I'm going to keep my bar and chain for right now since I found some decent chains for it. How do you like the spike with the longer teeth in the middle?
 
I got the smaller spikes from my dealer for a 192, $5

I would use the coarse thread, self tapping screws in plastic and not machine.
 
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