MS200 leaking oil

[361 STIHL]

I have a MS 200 which I purchased after reading all of the rave reviews on this site, you guys are right it is a great saw however between uses I find it sitting in a small puddle of bar oil. This has been baffling to me as any other Stihl saw I own seldom ever leaks and if so there are only a few drops at most. After the last use I disassembled the clutch side of the saw and found oil oozing out of the hole in the center of a round disk located just above the bumper strip. I assume this is the oil tank vent and should only work one way (air in only). Am I correct in this assumption? Has anyone else had this issue with the 200’s?

 

[Ekka]

I've never had an oil leak problem with the ms200

My 44 is pissing out at the moment but that's because the oil pump has been eaten away with palm acid juice and needs replacing ... but I'll get a few more kills under me belt before I change it.

Is it under warranty still?

 

[Greg Harrison]

MIne leaks a little also. But it is such an awesome little saw I think I will ignore it. Mine only leaks a small amount , never enough to empty the tank even after several weeks.

 

[belgian]

My MS 200 does not leak any oil at all. Please have it checked by your dealer, as I don't think it is normal. Lake may have a good opinion on it.
Roland

 

[Lakeside53]

Sounds like your check valve (the round disk you talk about) is not closing.

I've seen saws leak in the hot weather- the oil gets heated and expands, but it is supposed to push out through the pump (and not the check valve).

 

[361 STIHL]

the warranty will be real close either way I need to check my receit. Lakeside do you think I will have any luck getting it to seal or should I just replace it? Would you have the part # handy. I could use an IPL and/or service manual for the thing if some one has one in PDF they dont mind sharing. Thanks for all of the help guys.

 

[clearance]

I found over the years that most Husky and Stihl saws I have owned bleed a little. As long as the saw runs out of gas before oil when you are running it, its all good. Don't waste your time and effort on this "problem", this topic comes up here now and then, try putting the saw with the oil/gas caps facing up.

 

[Lakeside53]

the warranty will be real close either way I need to check my receit. Lakeside do you think I will have any luck getting it to seal or should I just replace it? Would you have the part # handy. I could use an IPL and/or service manual for the thing if some one has one in PDF they dont mind sharing. Thanks for all of the help guys.

1128 640 9100 lists for about $6.

 

[361 STIHL]

I have a new vent valve on order, should be in any day. Lakeside I am assuming the valve will tap out from the inside with a wooded dowel or something equivalent? When the new one is installed should any form of sealer be used or is the press fit enough to make a proper seal?

 

[Urbicide]

It's not leaking......it's just marking it's territory.

 

[Lakeside53]

It taps in from the inside, but I've "seen" it be done both ways as one way is pain..

No sealer required.

 

[carvinmark]

I love my 200, No oil leaks yet,
Mark

 

[NapalmDeath]

I noticed my MS270 yesterday was sitting in a puddle of oil as well. Kinda freaked me out a bit.

 

[361 STIHL]

I got my new valve and decided to check it and see if it leaked through like the original one so I put a drop of dish detergent on the little hole and blew in the other side. Wouldn’t you know it a bubble formed. Next I decide to remove the existing valve and try to compare the leak rate to see if they are consistent but can’t get it to budge. I splintered a wooden dowl rod trying to punch it back into the tank from the outside ( I think this is correct). Should I be pushing this thing out on a press or driving it out with a hammer.
The new valve leaking has me wondering if Stihl has a bad batch or they are designed to leak slightly as some sort of pressure relief? I don’t want to make a mountain out of a mole hill just think these little things cost to much to be marking there territory.

 

[Lakeside53]

I've only checked a few but they work as designed - a one way check valve. Probably needs oil inside it to seal properly.

I punch out the old valves with a 5/16 steel punch.

I've almost never seen a bad one - I punch mine out before heating the entire casings to insert bearings, then put them back in.