MS200T Boggy/stalling HEEELP!!!

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DaveCA

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2002
Messages
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Location
Northern California
Sorry for the dumb question and long post and all the whining, but from what I have heard about these saws since I've bought it is that they are cold blooded/boggy and that it's probably Stihl's best saw, HUH? It sure is a nice saw when it runs for a few seconds or 3 minutes sometimes. I have other Stihls that are great saws, but i have grown to hate this one.
It would be great if some expert Stihl person here can tell me how to fix it.
I have a problem with this saw always dying and being doggy/slow response, warm or cold, runs strong under load, but quite often it aacts like it bog out of cut, doesnt help to do anything different with the throttle but occassionally it helps to hold it wide open for a few seconds at full speed out of cut (I don't like doing that) to keep it going, sometimesthat works for another minute or two . It has always ran like this since new. My dealer, when it was new, told me to it run some more, it's a little lean and it will get better. That was two years ago, It took all the patience I could muster to run about 6~7 half tanks of fuel through it.
I've been using my larger saws that run correctly. Last fall I forgot how mad I was at this saw so I could look at it again, took it back to dealer. I didn't realize the warranty expired 2 months prior. They worked on it for free anyway, said the fuel inlet valve lever was a little off. I made a couple cuts and parked for winter. It acted a little cold blooded as always.
This spring i put fresh fuel in it again, same problem. I dump and run the old out before parking it each time. Always use recommended oil and big name premuim fuel less than 1 month old from busy gas stations. I tried adjusting it (has limiter on H screw), the air filter is clean, the exhaust screen is clean, the vent filter is clean, the chain is sharp and looks new because it is new and I always run a sharp chain.
Except when new I never take any of my equipment to dealer for anything, I am an all around mechanic myself.
I am getting a fuel line and filter, but I want to check the carb out too. They say all the books for the 020 are the same as for the 200, I don't think so.
I have the three cad plated screws removed from the handle assembly, two carb retaining nuts off, choke lever off, fuel line off, carb vent elbow off, hard rubber cover over the adj screws off, air filter and shroud under it off, starter cover off and clutch/bar cover and bar and chain off.
My problem is that I can't see how to disconnect the throttle link from the throttle lever on the carb.
Can some one who has done it before tell me how to remove the throttle link so I can remove the carb so I can check it?
Thanks very much for expereienced help fixing this saw and restoring my faith in Stihl.
 
thanks Climber2,
i spent two hours searching before asking the question and saw that thread.
attempting to follow stihltech advice from the thread you referenced. I cannot get the carb off.

it's been a little while since i rebuiolt a carb.

1. How do I get the throttle link off of the throttle lever on the carb?

2. What is the setting/spec for the fuel inlet needle height.

3 What is the procedure for resetting the h screw limiter?

thank you for the reply.
 
If you post a pic of the carb I can probably tell you how to get the thing apart. My guess as to the reason for your saw running so poorly is that the carb gaskets are dried out, the solution is to go to the dealer with the carb model, give them the MAKE AND MODEL numbers ONLY from the carb, not the saw that it is on, and ask for a rebuild kit for it. The kit should cost no more than $15USD and consists of a set of gaskets, a fuel metering needle, and a metering lever for the needle, plus a new spring for the metering lever, and a screen that goes inside the carb. I have used these rebuild kits many times before, I would suspect that this is where your saws problem is. IF this helps any I'm glad I could help.
 
Link in question connects on one end to the orange part inside there, the other end to lever on the end of throttle plate shaft.
Thanks
 
Dave i think the problem isn't the throttle link, they usually fall off as you slide the carb out. The adjusting jet screw catch's on the edge of the window, remove it first.
 
You can "rebuild that carb" till you pull your hair out wont change a ???? thing. I've purchased 4 200T in the last two years and they all did that kind of crappy, 2000.00 in chainsaws and they dont run right. set lean and cant get more fuel on the low end. Need to get a completely different carb. I thought when thye went to thew 2 screw carb again it would be cool but no deal.
 
To get that throttle linkage off just start pulling the carb out of the box the throttle will just about fall off the carb. You may have to use a screw driver to get it out of there but it comes off pretty easy.......DONT take it off of the plastic connector up in the handle. It will be a pain to put back on. As far as setting the lever height we dealers have a tool to do it with. usually it is supposed to be level with the top of the carb with the cover. then it is just adjustment from there......I find that the low speed has to be very rich.....there is a quite a fine line between it running right and it laoding up. PM me if you need any other help. Don't forget your carb has a 2 year warranty on it.....your dealer will fix it for free if you haven't had it for more than that.
 
adjusting screw hits the housig, thats why it wont come off. pry it a little and it pops right out
 
Along with checking the carb you should pressure and vacuum check the engine and check all your grounding wires through out the ignition system. I would also check the flywheel key. If all that is good then I would spend towards the carb. Also pressure check the fuel line and vacuum check the tank.
 
Thanks to Nevadawalrus and JimL hit it on the head to remove carb. I had 2 minutes this AM, so just moved the plastic about 1/16 inch to clear the screw and it all fell apart.. Too simple for me, just say no to too much caffeine kids.
Well, I could use a torch and hope the plastic melts or pull the roll pin to remove that H screw. Is there a better way?
I have a lot on my plate this week but will let you know if progress is made.
Thank you also Wiley, Joey and G-Man, I appreciate the intelligent advice, the crank key is something i hadn't considered.
 
Re: 200T

Originally posted by stihltech
If I can help, give me a yell. Got one off the bench Saturday. It is not cold blooded, nor does it bog or die after repair.

those things are a pain to work on, the 019 is the worst though.

I put 2 piston& cylinder kits in the same saw.

fixed it and customer put straight gas right back in it.
fool is he
 
After having done it, getting this carb out is not a difficult task.
Well the limiter cap slips right off, no trouble there. The fuel tank checks OK tried to pull a slow vacuum, breather works fine and can hear the little red valve doin.' it's thing. The fuel port on carb holds a vacuun good.
I took carb apart and cleaned it up, it seemed already clean though. All the passages in carb are clear. The needle lever is slightly below the surface <0.020 inch, i'll adjust it up flush. Carb looks good, but I can now try adjusting with free screws. .
Stihltech, thanks for the input, I appreciate the offer. I cannot accept that this saw will not run correctly when tuned properly.
Question, how do these look? Should I wait for kit before re-assembling it? They aren't wrinkled but they don't lay quite flat.
 
Wait for the kit. The saw runs around 12,000 rpm, double that for number of direction changes the metering diaphragm has to make to work right. Doesn't take a lot for it to stiffen just a little and not work well. 400 direction fluctuations per second, boggles the mind that it works at all.

Your low teeter totter sure didn't help.

Also, I've found, mostly on the older 020t's, that the impulse line has a tendency to pop off the filter box nipple. May want to just check for verification.
 
OK Nevadawalrus, I'll wait
I looked at the pulse hose and gave it a tug, looked good. I'll see if I can test it a bit further. Thanks.

ZAMA carbs don't impress me much. Look at the finish here. too smooth I guess could allow the gasket to move, looks like a bad case of road rash. It didn't leak fuel, amazing!!
 
Under magnification they look worse then they are. As a matter of reference. The earths surface, not very smooth? Reduce it in size to the same as a ping pong ball and the earth is far smoother.
 
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