Hi all, I'm new to the forums but am in desparate need of some advice. I have a Stihl MS250 that I've owned for about 6 months now and I had mishap with it over the weekend. A branch came down on it and snapped of the hard plastic nipple that the fuel return line attaches to at the top of the gas tank. I took it in to my dealer and they said that the cost of the part and their labor didn't justify repair - they recommended that I just buy a new saw. I certainly don't WANT to do that, but will if I have to. I was thinking that I could drill out the area where the nipple broke off, get a longer piece of fuel line, and feed the return down into the gas tank. I'd obviously need to make sure that it is a snug fit or find some way to seal it off, but I'm looking for other recommendations on how to proceed. I'm hoping this is the only issue with the saw at this point and that I don't need to buy another saw. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
MS250 Fuel Return line - plastic nipple broken
- Thread starter escpen
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
i'm not familier with that saw, but sounds like it would work,,, i would drill the tank for a tight fitting grommet, and then put the new fuel line thru that to keep it from leaking...
good luck,, and welcome....
This is correct. Many saws are made this way from the factory.
He quoted the part at $120 - their price. Not sure what my cost would be. Tack on 2 - 3 hours worth of labor and I'm getting close to a new saw. You are right, though. I could pursue repairing it with the new part myself. I'd hate to have to buy a part that's half the value of the saw, though.
I wasn't thinking about a grommet, but that's a great suggestion. Thank you!
nmurph
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2007
- Messages
- 16,162
- Reaction score
- 7,174
Here is a used engine housing from a member here. We can supply you with the service manuals that detail the job. Take pics with every part your remove and it is a pretty easy job. The only tool you will need is a T27 Torx driver, and maybe a pair of needle-nosed pliers and a screwdriver.
FOR SALE STIHL 021, 023 AND 025 ENGINE AND RELATED PARTS HOUSING | eBay
FOR SALE STIHL 021, 023 AND 025 ENGINE AND RELATED PARTS HOUSING | eBay
Would you recommend going this route over drilling out the tank and fitting the return line into the hole?
nmurph
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2007
- Messages
- 16,162
- Reaction score
- 7,174
You can drill the tank; you've got nothing to lose. But replacing the tank isn't a 3 hour job for a trained tech. They should be able to do it in about 1.5hrs even if they have 10 thumbs. It might take you three hours, but it is a very valuable experience as you will learn alot about your saw. You will then know how to replace fuel and impulse lines when they need attention.
Your PM box is full. Thank you for your willingness to help!
Sounds like to me you do not want spend alot of money. I would do exactly what you suggested by drilling the tank and fitting an oversize fuel line through it so that it is tight and will not leak. There are less expensive makers of 2 cycle engines that do exactly that. Then if the repair is not to your satisfaction get the part and replace it. You have nothing to lose either way.
sefh3
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have made this fix a few times on this and the 1127 series saw. All you need to do is find this vent valve. You can drill a hole with regular fuel line and make sure it's snug and install the valve on it.
Just want to make sure I have this right - I drill the hole, feed the return line down into the gas tank, and install this valve in-line somewhere? What does this valve do?
Welcome to A.S. Escpen!
As an authorized dealer, he is probably quoting you the list price for a complete tank assembly. This is a big, expensive piece, and could take a couple of hours to swap out, depending on how familiar you are with it.
It is always helpful to post photos so that we are sure of what you are describing - one man's 'thingy' is another man's 'whatzit'. Is it is the plastic tube rising out of the tank (below '6' on attached illustration)?
What I did was buy a brass hose barb fitting at the local hardware store, drilled out the hole, and epoxied it in place, building up a good fillet joint. Still there after 5+ years.
Philbert
As an authorized dealer, he is probably quoting you the list price for a complete tank assembly. This is a big, expensive piece, and could take a couple of hours to swap out, depending on how familiar you are with it.
It is always helpful to post photos so that we are sure of what you are describing - one man's 'thingy' is another man's 'whatzit'. Is it is the plastic tube rising out of the tank (below '6' on attached illustration)?
What I did was buy a brass hose barb fitting at the local hardware store, drilled out the hole, and epoxied it in place, building up a good fillet joint. Still there after 5+ years.
Philbert
Not in my case. It was an MS025. I cut off the remaining stub with a Dremel tool and drilled the plastic tank with a brad point bit to get a smooth hole. The threaded portion of the barb does not need to go deep into the fuel tank - cut it off if it is too long. Look for a small diameter thread if clearance is an issue. I did not use any kind of nut or washer to hold it in place, just a closely sized hole and epoxy.
Philbert
That valve is allready present in the 250...
So I guess I should just tell you guys how to fix this the easy way...
Go to your Stihl Dealer and order part numbers:
0000 988 5206 connector ($2.45)
0000 989 0608 grommet ($3.25)
Both of these are from a TS700
You will then measure the grommet because I forgot the drill bit size
Drill to the inside of the exsisting hole (use the exsisting hole but try and drill slightly to the carb side of it) if you drill centered in the hole the connector will interfere slightly with the gas cap.
Insert the connector and grommet and install the line. Done.
Any other life issues I can help you ladies with today? :hmm3grin2orange:
