Ms290 Oiling Problem !!!!

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PAF

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2007
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Location
Quebec,Canada
I need help !!! my ms290 is not oiling ! when I clean the bar it oil...but the rip block the bar and the hole...if I start it with no bar no chain it oil...I dont know if the problem is the bar...the filter in the tank is clean...and I try to shoot air with my compressor in the hole but it do nothing...sorry if my english is not good...its my second language...thx if you can help me !
 
Two things:

Make sure the oiler hole on your bar is clean. I use a toothpick in the hole and then blow it out with my mouth every time I have the chain off for any reason. Then run a screwdriver or bar tool all the way around the bar groove to clean anything else out.

How cold is it up there in Quebec? You probably should be using winter weight oil or mixing some kerosene or diesel in with your summer weight oil.

A 290's oil pump is not that great to start with, and it needs all the help it can get. Adjust the thing as high as possible and make sure it has a clean path to run on and a little thinner oil to push around.
 
I clean my bar and after it oil...but not long...the rip re block the hole...
its cold...-20 celsius but in the summer its not better...I always use light oil (winter oil)
I dont think the hose is disconnected from the tank because it oil when I remove the chain and bar
I think I will start with a new bar...mine is not in good condition
maybe a new pump...after im not sure...
 
its the bar ??
1tank of gaz for 1/8 of oil...not normal..
after 1/8 it block...
ajustement is at the max...
 
PAF,

We were having the same problem on a Husqvarna 41. It would oil fine for a little bit, then act like no oil. After cleaning the bar, making sure the oil pickup line wasn't clogged, oiler was working fine without the bar on it.

Asked our local dealer and they said the vent on the tank was plugged causing a vapor lock after it was running for a few minutes. Once that was cleaned, worked just fine.

I'm not sure if the oil cap has a breather hole, or the tank has its own breather, but it might be worth checking out.

Hope this helps,
Chuck
 
where is the breather ???
I think its the problem...it oil at start and after the bar is full of rip...
how I check diagram..I dont find it on stihl.com
If I dont have breather what is the problem
thanks
 
Rinse out the tank with some gas mix, then put some more back in and start the saw without the bar, the gas might break up any blockages, if that
does not help, remove the sprocket and clutch and inspect the drive worm
gear, and remove the hose and insprct the filter.
 
I try with the gas 1/3 of the tank and start the saw but its not working...I start it without bar
a little bit of oil get out of the whole...and after nothing....when my tank is full of oil...the saw is oiling very slowly but only for a couple minute...and after nothing...
it is possible the pump is not working good ? maybe worn gear ?
I put a new bar and I dont want to break it...
 
Where is the vent on the tank? I have found that I am not using nearly as much oil compared to gas. I know the oil adjuster is on the bottom of the saw, but how do you adjust it. I looked down in the hole and can't tell what to use to adjust it. Is it a flat, phillips head?

Kyle
 
Oil tank vent on most newer Stihls is the tiny hole in the middle of the little brass circle thing just above the bar studs on the saw. I blow them out with a blast of compressed air from the outside, and that usually clears them (though they rarely clog up).
 
I thought only pro saws had oil adjustments anyway its a flat screw and it
has a oil drop and a + sighn it only turns about 1/4 turn
 
I thought only pro saws had oil adjustments anyway its a flat screw and it
has a oil drop and a + sighn it only turns about 1/4 turn

Well, to many people the 290/310/390 are pro saws. :greenchainsaw:

The 290 has an adjustible oiler, and the oil pumps in them are pretty good (as compared to a 250 type). Flip the saw over and there on its belly is a little tiny screw. That screw controls the oil output of the saw. With the little orange Stihl screwdriver, turn the screw to full, all the way to the right. The little E is the ematic setting (some mid-range bar optimum setting I guess). There is no plus mark on mine. Just the E, the chain link and oil drop, and a narrow to wider curved arc that indicated less or more oil flow.
 
I try with the gas 1/3 of the tank and start the saw but its not working...I start it without bar
a little bit of oil get out of the whole...and after nothing....when my tank is full of oil...the saw is oiling very slowly but only for a couple minute...and after nothing...
it is possible the pump is not working good ? maybe worn gear ?
I put a new bar and I dont want to break it...

If the oiler is oiling and then quitting, it is probably not a worn gear or a broken pump. It could be any of several things. Take the bar off to debug it.

Check that the oil holes in the bar are not clogged up. That is the most common problem. Simple fix; use a paper clip to unplug the oil holes in the bar.

Start the saw with the bar orr and check the oil flow. If it flows and then stops, several things may be wrong. One is that the oil tank vent may be clogged. The oil tank vent is a tiny hole in the center of a small brass (mine is anyway) cylinder just to the front of the bar studs on the saw. Use an air conpressor blast of air to clear it. Another probem could be that the oil line is clogged up. Open the oil tank and fish out the oil feed line, and check that the oil filter is not clogged up. Pull it off and clean it if it is.

The 290 has an adjustible oiler. Flip the saw over and there on its belly is a little tiny screw. That screw controls the oil output of the saw. With the little orange Stihl screwdriver, turn the screw to full, all the way to the right.

If none of these takes care of the problem, you need to pull the clutch and get to the oil pump. In that case I would refer to the 290/310/390 service manual. It is not that hard to do. Use a cord or rope as a piston stop, and remember that the clutch has reverse threads on it. Once the clutch is off the oil pump drive and gear are exposed, and the pump assembly itself comes off with 2 torx screws. I have found that fines can build up at the enterence of the oil pump inside the saw and casue them to not oil right. But that is rare, and none of my saws that I bought new or near new ever had that type of problem.

I stilh :heart: my 290!
 
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Tank vent is by the bar studs and should be silver in color with a check valve in the middle.

Adjuster is turned with a small slot screwdriver. 1/4 turn either way. Clockwise will make it wide open.
 
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