MS361 idle problem

[boilerhouse47]

Hi folks, I have a new MS361 that is just broken in , 7 to 8 tanks of gas through it. My problem is that after it is warmed up and you have made 5 or 6 cuts in a log and you set the saw down and let it idle for a few seconds, it acts like it wants to stall when you first hit the gas on it. You can warm the saw up for ten minutes with out making any cuts and you can not get it to do this. I had it back to the local dealer that I purchased it from and he adjusted the low speed jet when the saw wasn’t running. He then started the saw and made several cuts in a chunk of wood he had at his shop an gave me back the saw and said it was ok. I told him you can still hear it stumble when he hits the gas after it idled for a little bit and he says yes but now it is doing it because it is running rich not lean and walked back into his shop. To say I was pi$$ed didn’t begin to cover it. I asked the num-nuts if he was going to fix it and he said run it some more and it would be good. Well I came home and made several more cuts in some hard wood and it is not as good as it was when I had it back to him, it will stall if you let it idle for more than 3 or 4 seconds after you finish several cuts in12 to 16 inch maple. I’m running 93 octane gas(fresh) and Stihl’s low smoke oil at the recommended 50:1 ratio.
I’m going to take it to a different dealer and have them look at it because I don’t want to try and adjust the carb on a new saw still under warranty.
Two questions ; what could be the cause of this problem, and what does the Stihl Elite insignia mean on a dealers web site?
Carl

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

It sound like a simple carb adjustment issue.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Yeah, provided your fuel and air filters are clean, and all the usual stuff, it's just a carb issue. Simple adjustment.

And tell you what, you need to learn to adjust your carb. A little bit goes a long way. Keep track of where you're starting from, follow the directions and go at it. There's millions of threads on here about carb adjustment. Each one will direct you to Madsen's web page, and it's tutorial on carb adjustment. Carb adjustment is just part of running a saw. Case in point-your saw right now is more than likely (I'd put money on it) fine. You carb just needs a 1/16th of a turn here or there. Can't go to a dealer every time your saw needs tweaked. Atmospheric conditions change daily, and with each, your saw will run differently. You'll do more damage to it running it tuned the way it was tuned a year ago, than you would adjusting it yourself, and keeping it in tune.

Jeff

 

[Canyon Angler]

I just had a similar issue with a 1-yr-old MS-310.

Dealer told me that Stihl started using some new system for venting the gas tank, probably due to EPA BS, and when it gets hot outside, pressure builds in the gas tank and the engine gets flooded due to pressure buildup in the gas tank.

I had similar symptoms to yours - it kept quitting at idle, but then when you tried to give it gas (with load or without) it stalled. Then you couldn't start it because it was flooded, and you couldn't get it UN-flooded without pulling the plug, drying off the plug and purging the cylinder. Then when you put the plug back in, it would start, but as soon as you tried to give it gas, it flooded again. Lather, rinse, repeat ad infinitum. Where's my sledgehammer?

Anyway, my dealer said he replaced the "new style" gas tank vent with the "old style" gas tank vent. Apparently they put some screws into a line off the gas tank, and the "venting" action occurs as air moves along the threads of the screw. Whatever. It seems better now. It idles, and it runs under load, and it sounds decent at WOT under no load...we'll see.

Good luck.

Jeff

 

[Lakeside53]

Sounds like the dealer didn't understand the issues... The vent on the MS310 is the same as is used on almost all of of Stihl's saws for the past few years. The only way the carb floods due to tank pressure is if the needle valve isn't seating properly due to wear or a bad seat.


The 361 doesn't idle very smoothly, but if it farts around on acceleration, it need to be tuned, or fixed. As FHCW says, don't sweat the carb adjustment particularly on the L screw (which is all we are talking about here)...


What does the Stihl Insignia mean? Only as much as the worst employee of the Dealer...

 

[boilerhouse47]

FHCW, Angler, and Lakeside, I don't believe it is a tank vent problem because it will start right back up if it does stall. Yes I do need to learn how to adjust the carb on my saws, but I don't want to mess up a good saw trying to learn how. I know it's not rocket science! I have a Mac. Eager Beaver that I will practice on, but until the warranty is up on the 361 I'm going to take it to another dealer. Is there any place that puts on expo's on how to tune saws? It would be nice if one had a teacher looking over your shoulder while you're making adjustments.
Thanks to all that replied. Carl

 

[Canyon Angler]

http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I haven't worked on one of these new strato charged engines. Is there a forth adjustment, besides the L, H, Idle screw, that controls the difference of openings between the carb butterfly and the air injection butterfly?

When I hear dealers saying that a new model of saw, "doesn't idle smoothly" or another one says he can't get it right but it should work itself out, I tend to think there is something they haven't figured out.

 

[Lakeside53]

I haven't worked on one of these new strato charged engines. Is there a forth adjustment, besides the L, H, Idle screw, that controls the difference of openings between the carb butterfly and the air injection butterfly?

When I hear dealers saying that a new model of saw, "doesn't idle smoothly" or another one says he can't get it right but it should work itself out, I tend to think there is something they haven't figured out.

You're confiusing this with the 441. The 361 is not stratocharged - just a conventional 4 port engine, but a bit more "highly/tightly tuned"... Doesn't tick over like an 056... needs to idle a bit faster. It has an "ordinary" carb and has been around for three years.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Heehe, I think that's the second time you told me that about the 361...one or two more times and I'll remember.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

I’m running 93 octane gas(fresh) and Stihl’s low smoke oil at the recommended 50:1 ratio. Carl

I would lose thew 50:1 oil mix and go with 32:1.

Cheap insurance

 

[CaseyForrest]

Boiler, you cant go wrong listening to these guys, they know their saws.

One point, if you still have the limiter caps on the adjuster screws, you wont be able to turn them enough to harm the saw. UNLESS, they arent adjusted correctly to begin with. When you take it to the second dealer, have them tach it, and then center the limiter caps.

 

[Lakeside53]

Boiler, you cant go wrong listening to these guys, they know their saws.

One point, if you still have the limiter caps on the adjuster screws, you wont be able to turn them enough to harm the saw. UNLESS, they arent adjusted correctly to begin with. When you take it to the second dealer, have them tach it, and then center the limiter caps.

WHOA!!!!! You absolutely CAN mess up the saw by making it too lean. The H screw is adjusted to the richest position at the factory - all you can do is make it leaner which WILL toast the saw is you get it too lean...

I wouldn't go as low as as 32:1 for conventional cutting. You will get more plug fouling and harder starts. If you want to get a better mix, use a better oil - like full synthetic.

 

[CaseyForrest]

WHOA!!! Lake, I made my statement assuming the limiters are still on the carb!!! They only give you 3/4 turn, right?

 

[Lakeside53]

WHOA!!! Lake, I made my statement assuming the limiters are still on the carb!!! They only give you 3/4 turn, right?

3/4 of a turn lean (clockwise) will toast the piston/cylinder... unless you are using the saw at 11,000 feet..

The adjustment is for emission limiting, not user limiting (same thing I guess!).


I just stripped down an MS290 today. The guy's father has turned the limited H screw all the way lean to make it "run better". A couple of weeks later the crank-bearing came apart, then so did the piston and cylinder..

 

[Chopper]

mine too

Hi folks, I have a new MS361 that is just broken in , 7 to 8 tanks of gas through it. My problem is that after it is warmed up and you have made 5 or 6 cuts in a log and you set the saw down and let it idle for a few seconds, it acts like it wants to stall when you first hit the gas on it. You can warm the saw up for ten minutes with out making any cuts and you can not get it to do this. I had it back to the local dealer that I purchased it from and he adjusted the low speed jet when the saw wasn’t running. He then started the saw and made several cuts in a chunk of wood he had at his shop an gave me back the saw and said it was ok. I told him you can still hear it stumble when he hits the gas after it idled for a little bit and he says yes but now it is doing it because it is running rich not lean and walked back into his shop. To say I was pi$$ed didn’t begin to cover it. I asked the num-nuts if he was going to fix it and he said run it some more and it would be good. Well I came home and made several more cuts in some hard wood and it is not as good as it was when I had it back to him, it will stall if you let it idle for more than 3 or 4 seconds after you finish several cuts in12 to 16 inch maple. I’m running 93 octane gas(fresh) and Stihl’s low smoke oil at the recommended 50:1 ratio.
I’m going to take it to a different dealer and have them look at it because I don’t want to try and adjust the carb on a new saw still under warranty.
Two questions ; what could be the cause of this problem, and what does the Stihl Elite insignia mean on a dealers web site?
Carl

I have a 361 that had the same problem. Ended up sending it off to get a woods port. The builder said that they would fix the idle issue too. That was back in Febuary............

 

[CaseyForrest]

3/4 of a turn lean (clockwise) will toast the piston/cylinder... unless you are using the saw at 11,000 feet..

The adjustment is for emission limiting, not user limiting (same thing I guess!).


I just stripped down an MS290 today. The guy's father has turned the limited H screw all the way lean to make it "run better". A couple of weeks later the crank-bearing came apart, then so did the piston and cylinder..

Well now, I did not realize that!!!

I apologize for the mis-information.

 

[Lakeside53]

The best way to learn is to buy a new saw, set the saw full lean, then go mill with it.

How's that for misinformation!!!:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[CaseyForrest]

The best way to learn is to buy a new saw, set the saw full lean, then go mill with it.

How's that for misinformation!!!:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

Ill try that with my 660, Ill give you an update on how it goes.

 

[DDM]

Ive got 2 361's neither idle very well to the point i raised the throttle adjustment so they would stay running. Of course unless you hit the chainbrake it will spin.I would swap them in on 2 new 036's with no thought whatsoever.