Hello, new to the group. I most likely will buy one of these units. If anyone can tell me the pro's and con's. As far as I know , they are both great.Thanks
Hello, new to the group. I most likely will buy one of these units. If anyone can tell me the pro's and con's. As far as I know , they are both great.Thanks
I've read about the 3120 having a limited rev coil...a real PITA for the modders.
I've got a 660 I use on a granberg 36". It's a great saw, but I wish I had gone one more step up.
A 36" conventional style mill like an alaskan means a max of about 30" wide cuts. On a 30" wide log, half the cuts will be 25" wide or narrower, and in the sort of soft stuff available in your neck of the globe an operator just won't find much of a difference in cut times between a 90 cc saw and a 120 cc saw, at these widths. The bigger saws only really sing a significantly better tune when you start talking big logs and big bars, and even then if the wood is soft don't expect a huge difference in cutting time.
If an operator is finding a difference in cutting times then I usually ask;
1) How well/often is the operator sharpening their chain(s)?
A bigger saw can perhaps push a blunter chain through a log than a smaller saw but all that does in the long term is blunten the chain even more, so the operator has more to sharpen later.
2) What raker heights is the operator using?
Using a single raker height means the saw will cut slower and slower as the cutter gets shorter. There are plenty of posts about this on this site
3) How easily does the the mill bog down on the side of your logs
Some operators confuse slow sawing speed with the saw bogging down on the side of log and think this is due to saw power problems when it's due to mill design problems.
In the long run the small amount of time I save on each cut with a bigger saw is really quite marginal compared to the other activities and I don't see a lot more slabs piling up at the end of the day when cutting smaller logs.
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