My auto oiler fix for XL2, Super2

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Old2stroke

Never too many toys
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
1,639
Reaction score
2,342
Location
Ottawa, Canada
These saws both use a crankcase pulse operated diaphragm type oil pump, I believe some models of the Super2 did go to a pressurized oil tank system and it appears that both types have had problems. I received a Super2 in pieces and it was a nearly complete saw except for a few missing items, one of which was the entire diaphragm oiler system. Not wanting to spend a lot of money on this saw, I decided to make my own pressurized tank oiler. Attempt #1 was to install a nipple in the crankcase hole that would have provided pulses for the missing oiler, then I ran a line from the nipple to the oil tank with a check valve on the end, and ran another pickup line with a filter from the tank to the nipple on the rear of the bar mount. Result was WAY too much oil.
Attempt #2 was to drill and tap a hole in the bar mount boss that let me install a machine screw that would block the exit oil hole in the bar mount base, thinking it would give me an adjustable oiler. Very limited success, the adjustment was too sensitive, too much oil or not enough. Might have worked better if I had used a screw with a finer thread than the 6-32 I used.
Attempt #3 was to drill a small hole in the oil tank cap to reduce the pressure in the tank. Started with a #55 (0.053" dia) drill and the hole was too big. Result, no oil. I experimented with placing various size wires in the hole to reduce the hole size and eventually found a small nail (0.048" dia) gave just the right amount of oil when cutting. My sketchy math shows a 0.025" drill probably would have worked if I had one. A surprising result is, at idle there isn't enough pressure in the tank to deliver oil and when you shut the saw off, the pressure bleeds off right away and it stops oiling, unlike most pressurized tank systems.
 
If U didn’t need to put a rubber duck deal check valve on line that pressurizes inside the tank you need to. To keep right fuel to air ratio
 
.031 was the size Homelite used. They make a restrictor that goes next to oil filter to control the flow of oil. A old carburetor jet with that size hole would probably work also. Only the XL from late 1977- mid 1980’s had the pressurized only oil system. There was to many issues with this system and the XL went back to the diaphragm pump. The XL2 and Super 2 always had the diaphragm pump, but they can be converted to pressurized only oil system.
 
The super 2 set up in original form was a bronze mesh pressure release tube & a duckbill valve these were fitted inside the oil tank on the line near to the neck of the tank the line & duckbill valve were positioned on the tube with a default gap of 1/16 " of the tube showing bigger gap less pressure =less oil opposite for more oil AFAIR the cap had no vent hole In the Super2's life there were 3 differt setup for bar oiling the late models had a mass of ol lines akin to an angry octopus
 
The super 2 set up in original form was a bronze mesh pressure release tube & a duckbill valve these were fitted inside the oil tank on the line near to the neck of the tank the line & duckbill valve were positioned on the tube with a default gap of 1/16 " of the tube showing bigger gap less pressure =less oil opposite for more oil AFAIR the cap had no vent hole
Like this...

IMG_3437.JPG
 
I have seen them before with an aluminum piece inserted into the line attached to the duckbill valve with a very small hole in it to restrict air flow. I have one on my super 2 right now. It oils plenty but probably not too much.
 
Old2stroke I am going to attempt this fix on my saw. I have studied the thread and have a pretty good understanding of what you did. My question is did you leave the cover cap off where the diaphragm sits? I am having troubles understanding how you routed the pressure line from the crankcase hole as it is on the opposite side of the oil tank. Just a mental block for me here. Do you have a picture of your fix? thank you in advance
 
Old2stroke I am going to attempt this fix on my saw. I have studied the thread and have a pretty good understanding of what you did. My question is did you leave the cover cap off where the diaphragm sits? I am having troubles understanding how you routed the pressure line from the crankcase hole as it is on the opposite side of the oil tank. Just a mental block for me here. Do you have a picture of your fix? thank you in advance

I’m definitely not Old2stroke, but I am old. It helps to post a picture of your current set up, to see what you have.

Like undee70ss said, & even provided the schematic for, you’ll need the 0.031” restrictor orifice & checked oil pickup installed if you go this route.

The straight steel fitting tubing by the right side of oil pump goes to the oil tank w/ duckbill, and the 90 steel fitting on top of oil metering pump gets plugged w/ a piece of hose. That line used to go to the bar and plate oil fitting.

The output tubing from the oil tank filter now goes to the bar oil fitting.

The cap cover for the diaphragm must remain on.
 
I’m definitely not Old2stroke, but I am old. It helps to post a picture of your current set up, to see what you have.

Like undee70ss said, & even provided the schematic for, you’ll need the 0.031” restrictor orifice & checked oil pickup installed if you go this route.

The straight steel fitting tubing by the right side of oil pump goes to the oil tank w/ duckbill, and the 90 steel fitting on top of oil metering pump gets plugged w/ a piece of hose. That line used to go to the bar and plate oil fitting.

The output tubing from the oil tank filter now goes to the bar oil fitting.

The cap cover for the diaphragm must remain on.

Haha but I'm old!! With age comes experience and wisdom. I got er figured out last night. Just a mental block. She oils like a dream now! Thank you for the response. Appreciate it.
 
If you want a lot of oil just replace the metallic sleeve with a .5" piece of tubing from a ball point pen. I do prefer the simpler design of the one tube in the tank and one out to the multiple hose setup of the later homelites..
 
Haha but I'm old!! With age comes experience and wisdom. I got er figured out last night. Just a mental block. She oils like a dream now! Thank you for the response. Appreciate it.

Good deal on fixing it!, but no pics?

The oil fill cap must have a very good seal, up inside the cap, cut a new cork round or a Viton washer to fit.

Also, run straight weight 30W oil if you need more flow.

If you cheaped out & just reused the old oil pickup, then it will pizz out all your bar oil in the floor when it is not in use.
 
Good deal on fixing it!, but no pics?

The oil fill cap must have a very good seal, up inside the cap, cut a new cork round or a Viton washer to fit.

Also, run straight weight 30W oil if you need more flow.

If you cheaped out & just reused the old oil pickup, then it will pizz out all your bar oil in the floor when it is not in use.
I will post some pictures tonight of the little collection and including the one I got fixed up. Some of the saws have metal tubing lines that come from the pump. Yes I did end up replacing the lines! And that is when it stopped oiling. Weird. I made sure to use lines with the wider inside diameter so I don't get it. But all is good now since I ran a direct line to the tank and then a direct line to the bar. Thanks for the help
 
If you want a lot of oil just replace the metallic sleeve with a .5" piece of tubing from a ball point pen. I do prefer the simpler design of the one tube in the tank and one out to the multiple hose setup of the later homelites..
And you're talking about that little piece on the end of the pressure line where the duckbill valve hooks onto right?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top