My first time....

[RAMROD48]

:msp_sneaky::msp_sneaky::msp_sneaky:

I have used the Haddon lumber maker a few times, but this was the first time with the Allaskan...

I want to use Cedar beams in my post and beam workshop...Hoping they will be strong enough for a 10x15 work shop...

I think this one will be 12' long and 10"x10"...

the butt will be used for a bunch of shelves...

View attachment 252246View attachment 252247View attachment 252248View attachment 252245

 

[woodgrenade]

Looks pretty darn cool to me.

 

[Dave Boyt]

I love the smell of cedar in the morning (or any time). Nice log. Good cedar is hard to find. Very brittle, and typically full of knots. I'd question whether it is a suitable wood for beams, but maybe some experts will weigh in on this. A lot will depend on how clear it is, and what kind of loading you put on it. To the extent you can, keep the knots on the top side of the beam, as they are much stronger in compression than in tension. Hope to see photos of the project as it progresses.

 

[sachsmo]

Show some pics of the shelves when you're done.

Looks like some good smellin" stuff right there. I be working on a worm eaten ash uprights, and twisted Sycamore shelves for me garden booty.

 

[mikeb1079]

nice work!

i would also probably use something other than cedar for beams but i'm also wrong alot.

 

[RAMROD48]

This is the butt end....sliced into 2.5" thick 5' long pieces...most of it is over 14" wide after cutting off the edge...(not that I have yet)...

 

[RAMROD48]

I love the smell of cedar in the morning (or any time). Nice log. Good cedar is hard to find. Very brittle, and typically full of knots. I'd question whether it is a suitable wood for beams, but maybe some experts will weigh in on this. A lot will depend on how clear it is, and what kind of loading you put on it. To the extent you can, keep the knots on the top side of the beam, as they are much stronger in compression than in tension. Hope to see photos of the project as it progresses.

Hardly any load and mostly for looks...

 

[hamish]

Cedar is fine for beam so long as they are sized accordingly and rough graded, to account for the minimum breaking force.

Time spent with combat engineers doing bridging, there are simple formulas to give you an idea, of what you need to get the job done. mbf=breadth x depth 2(squared), divided by span, x c (material value) x k (end support value).

Just make it beefy, looks better that way!