My new/old Stihl 044

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sperho

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This link describes my little adventure today. I took a few pictures to share and possible get some feedback on the saw. The saw runs decently. By decently, I ripped a 20" long-wise chunk of poplar and it pulled pretty well and I could stop it in the cut and hit the throttle and it would torque itself right back to work. It spools up to max RPM quickly. All of which is amazing to me given the fact that this came out of the gas tank after I brought it home. (Yes, that's TWO layers with junk in there).
gas.jpg


Some overview shots:
clutchside.jpg

pullcordside.jpg

top.jpg

bottom.jpg

muffler1.jpg

clutch.jpg

filter.jpg
 
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continued...

carb.jpg


Now, getting into the muffler...
muffler2.jpg

exhaustport.jpg

rings.jpg


This is the view of the piston skirt through the exhaust port:
skirt.jpg


One angle showing the back of the cylinder:
backcylinder1.jpg


Another angle of the back of the cylinder:
backcylinder2.jpg



And finally, the serial number. Can anyone date this saw? I'm guessing 98 or 99.
serial.jpg
 
I'll let the pros comment on the p&c. Is that a 440 fuel tank/handle on a 044 frame? Take some wd-40 and spray it down really good then wipe with a cloth. It should clean up nice. I think you did great for $200:rock:
 
Yes, the previous owner said he replaced the gas tank filler cap, so it has a new style cap on it...

Not trying to be a ass but you can't just replace the cap, the whole tank has to be changed. Did he run over it?

Depending what the pros say, after clean up I would put a dual port cover on it.
 
Not trying to be a ass but you can't just replace the cap, the whole tank has to be changed. Did he run over it?

He said he put a new cap on it, so if that necessitates a new tank, then it has a new tank. I don't own a saw with the old style, so I was ignorant to the fact that one requires the other. As far as him or anyone else running over it, I have no clue.
 
He said he put a new cap on it, so if that necessitates a new tank, then it has a new tank. I don't own a saw with the old style, so I was ignorant to the fact that one requires the other. As far as him or anyone else running over it, I have no clue.

That's cool, I'm not trying to agrue with you just pointing out what I saw. The air filter should have a elastic pre filter on it also(can't tell from pic). No big deal, some run it, some don't. I like all the protection I can get. Now clean that thing up, we need a before and after pic.

btw dp cover part # is 1128 140 0801:givebeer:
 
You can't just change the fuel cap. the whole tank was replaced with a newer model. Looks like the rubber bushing are pretty worn on the handle also. You will be needing a piston and possibly head soon, the piston shows some wear. Looks like improper fuel mix or bad adjustment on the carb from the piston color also. Change the fuel filter and spark plug to start with. Check the carb adjustment. As for the bar it looks worn but might be ok with some dressing. I would look carefully at the sprocket tip, looks like it was replaced also check for wear or being loose. All in all you did not do bad for the $200 you spent, definitly not worth the $350 original asking price. Have fun with it, they are great saws.
 
Considering the fuel... don't run it until you've changed the fuel filter... and maybe checked the carb inlet screen

$200? You did fine.
 
That's cool, I'm not trying to agrue with you just pointing out what I saw. The air filter should have a elastic pre filter on it also(can't tell from pic). No big deal, some run it, some don't. I like all the protection I can get. Now clean that thing up, we need a before and after pic.

btw dp cover part # is 1128 140 0801:givebeer:


The pre-filter is installed, and you do need it...
 
Considering the fuel... don't run it until you've changed the fuel filter... and maybe checked the carb inlet screen

$200? You did fine.

Ok, you got me. What is the carb inlet screen? Part number? I'm going to go put an order in tomorrow for the:

  • filter insert (fuel spitback protector thingy; it's missing on this saw)
  • limiter caps (extras for future muffler modding/dual port cover installation)
  • spark plugs
  • fuel filter
  • "carb inlet screen"?
 
As for the bar it looks worn but might be ok with some dressing. I would look carefully at the sprocket tip, looks like it was replaced also check for wear or being loose.

The bar is an ES bar. It has a wire edge, which I'll file off. The tip is a bit loose. I'm thinking of peening the rivets with a drift against an anvil. Bad idea? The sprocket teeth are worn to the point of being triangular and sharp. Dunno if they are supposed to be like that, but I doubt it. How much hassle/cost is it to change out an ES tip?
 
Where am I looking for this screen? I've not dug into the fuel intake system before...


bottom side of carb body, remove single big screw on bottom cover, use pic tool or a safety pin with 90* bent short on point will work,,,the inlet screen resides in the litle cavity of the carb body,,,its about the size of a pencil eraser,,, clean with carb cleaner, if it runs and cuts well under load you may have dodged a bullet,,,

Clean it any way!!!! then I use a blount punch to set it back in the hole
 
Thanks RR...

When I get the basic maintenance items done, will it do any more harm than already done to just go ahead and run it?
 
I dunno about the other stuff, but you definitely could use a piston. It's shot but not so much that I'd suspect the bore...I bet it'll clean up nicely. I'd get on it before that piston bags around in there too much, though. A nice 044 that just needs a few things for 2 bills? Way to go!
 
The sprocket teeth are worn to the point of being triangular and sharp. Dunno if they are supposed to be like that, but I doubt it. How much hassle/cost is it to change out an ES tip?

The wear will also be if the rails at the tip are spread, this will wear out a new chain quickly. Changing the tip easy enough, 3 rivots and the new one is on. Bar tip will be cheaper than the bar.
 

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