My OWB Plumbing Layout

[Kevin in Ohio]

Showed my layout to a guy and said I should post it as it might give others some ideas. I did this 6 six ago when I installed mine, wish I'd had internet then to pull ideas from but this turned out okay and really wouldn't change anything.

First thing I did was mount 3/4" Pressure treated Plywood to the stone wall, then topped it off with stainless steel sheet. Water comes in at the far top right and loops back. EXTREMELY important to have a loop your pipes will grow with heat(at least mine did) and this is what I came up with.

I marked it when cold and it grows 46 inches every year. Hot water comes in through the loop and heads down the far right copper pipe to the main circulator pump which runs continously. Goes to the water heater from there for convection heating.

Then it's up at the ceiling again and travels down the center of the 3 vertical lines(next to the infeed line). From there it runs to the heat exchanger fo the house. My home had a hot water oil furnace so all I did was put a single exchanger and that was done. I can keep the oil furnace as a backup or if I want to go on an extended winter vacation it will keep the boiler safe. When thermastat calls for heat the 3 way zone valve opens, otherwise it bypasses it. The circulator pump on the oil furnace runs constant.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Here's the heat exchanger and the way I mounted it. Plenty sturdy and clean. Hard to believe that thing works as well as it does. Make sure to run your coolant flow in oppisite directions.


I added a 36' X 50' attached garage to the house. I put 2 zones in there and keep them at different temps. One zone is basically storage while the other is where the daily drivers are. Here is a close up of one of the zone pumps and how I mounted it. Made up some simple brackets and U bolts top hold it fast and I can easily replace pump as well if needed.

One thing I'd stress is to always leave room for more zones in your system. I put in threaded nipples for ease of that and left space on the board for it. I wasn't sure if I'd need more in the house so I planned ahead. Ended up I'm fine but you neve know, I may need them and no real extra cost to do.

Here's the 2 zone pumps and you can see the "future" accesses.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

If the zone pumps don't call for heat it circulates up the far left vertical pipe back to the boiler and starts all over again. Here are some close ups of some of the other hold down brackets I made. Nice as it keeps everything solid and supported so tghere are no real stresses on the pipes.

I tried to keep all mild steel out of this system as my boiler is stainless as well. Stainless, brass, copper and pex on all of it. Just the pumps are mild so internal problems should be minimal. Hope this helps someone with ideas. I know it took me a while of penciling it out so it would work without crisscrossing everywhere and the minimal use of fittings. DO make sure to put valves and drain fittings everywhere, Valves will make your life MUCH better if you have to replace anything. If anyone has any questions or wants to point out flaws, fire away.

 

[November Wolf]

WOW! Very nice job there. What kind of boiler is that?

+ rep from me.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

WOW! Very nice job there. What kind of boiler is that?

+ rep from me.

I have a Central Boiler SCL 5648SB. It's their Titanium enhanced stainless version. No blower on it and it doesn't need it as I've no problems.

 

[November Wolf]

Yeah I really like my Central Boiler. They seem to be a real solid unit and I agree you dont need a blower. Mine's been online a little over 1 month and no problems here. In fact it is working better than my expectations.

 

[mga]

nice work, kevin.

obviously you know your stuff because it looks very professional.

 

[Lurch16th]

Top Notch Job,
and i'll be taking your advice when installing mine.

 

[streeter]

nice work, kevin.

obviously you know your stuff because it looks very professional.

Professional and then some.......Looks like Kevin is an Engineer/designer. All I can say is:jawdrop: That system is well over engineered and made to last 100 years....Kudo's

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Professional and then some.......Looks like Kevin is an Engineer/designer. All I can say is:jawdrop: That system is well over engineered and made to last 100 years....Kudo's

This was my first attempt at doing one of these. I did draw it out and that helped me see some problems before I commited to the design. When I got it done one of my friends said it looked like a submarine control room!

Had a guy from work come out and look at it as he bought another brand and wanted some pointers. I guess he told his dealer about and he came with him another time taking pictures. I saw the dealer later that year at the county fair in his booth and there on the wall were pics of MY install. I asked him loud enough for his patrons to hear, "Why are you showing pics of a competitors install?" To say the least, he was a little embaressed and I asked for the pics. I thought that was kind of rude of him to do that without asking.

No engineer, no schoolin', just blessed/cursed with common sense

 

[streeter]

This was my first attempt at doing one of these. I did draw it out and that helped me see some problems before I commited to the design. When I got it done one of my friends said it looked like a submarine control room!

Had a guy from work come out and look at it as he bought another brand and wanted some pointers. I guess he told his dealer about and he came with him another time taking pictures. I saw the dealer later that year at the county fair in his booth and there on the wall were pics of MY install. I asked him loud enough for his patrons to hear, "Why are you showing pics of a competitors install?" To say the least, he was a little embaressed and I asked for the pics. I thought that was kind of rude of him to do that without asking.

No engineer, no schoolin', just blessed/cursed with common sense

Looking at those photo's I am having flashback's of my father ( He made half of the machinery in a well known company) smacking me in back of the head and say think......LMAO.

I would be like you! outspoken and say...."Why is my design sitting on YOUR wall?:censored: Then feel honored, that "I designed such a good system" that a professional would want to copy

 

[Lloyd H]

nice job

Something can be said for making it a joy to look at as well. I take it from what looks to be a temp control valve on the garage sub loop that it is radiant floor heat? What temp water do you have to the floor? As others have said very professional looking job.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Looking at those photo's I am having flashback's of my father ( He made half of the machinery in a well known company) smacking me in back of the head and say think......LMAO.

I would be like you! outspoken and say...."Why is my design sitting on YOUR wall?:censored: Then feel honored, that "I designed such a good system" that a professional would want to copy

The thing that got me the most was he had a sign that said the sold the parts or They would do "complete installs" and MY install was right under the sign. Tacky, VERY tacky. Never said it was his but I think most would assume so by the way he had it set up.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Something can be said for making it a joy to look at as well. I take it from what looks to be a temp control valve on the garage sub loop that it is radiant floor heat? What temp water do you have to the floor? As others have said very professional looking job.

Yes, that Tempering valve is for the radiant floor heat in the concrete. It pulls cold water from the return and mixes with the hot from the infeed line. I keep it at 130 degrees and I put a combo guage that tells temp and pressure in one guage. IT has Central Boilers logo on it so it may be exclusive to them, I don't know. They still all work great after 7 years.

I keep my boiler at 177 for a low and 185 for a high. Here's a close up of the valve for you.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Dang straight!!!...good job...from a 3rd ge. master plumber!

 

[Jkebxjunke]

Nice job... there is only one thing I might have done differently... is the location of the electric outlets... me personally I dont like to put outlets in close proximity of areas of possible leaks down the road... not to say that there will be.. its always a possibility. but it looks great.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Nice job... there is only one thing I might have done differently... is the location of the electric outlets... me personally I dont like to put outlets in close proximity of areas of possible leaks down the road... not to say that there will be.. its always a possibility. but it looks great.

Pic kind of flattens it out but pipes stick out a little from the electric runs. In any event, I was under the impression the ground fault oulet up the line would take care of any problems. Was I misinformed on that? I thought water shorts was why they were first required near kitchen sinks and bathrooms. If anyone knows for sure I'd appreciate some expertice. Thanks.

 

[Jkebxjunke]

Pic kind of flattens it out but pipes stick out a little from the electric runs. In any event, I was under the impression the ground fault oulet up the line would take care of any problems. Was I misinformed on that? I thought water shorts was why they were first required near kitchen sinks and bathrooms. If anyone knows for sure I'd appreciate some expertice. Thanks.

it should be fine... its just personal preference... I have had water leaks spray into outlets.. whether its a gfci plug or not.. there is still power beind the plug... I just has an instance in my chicken houses where condensation caused some arcing.. and the breaker did not trip.. and burned up a wire or one leg of the 220v line... probably where the electrician nicked the insulation when they slit the sheath off the cable.

 

[fireman31]

Please forgive me if this has been addressed somewhere else. I've started building my system and I'm still collecting parts too. Is there an advantage in having individual zone pumps over having one larger pump and zone valves?

I got a huge pump(compared to yours) and flanges free if I removed the boiler. While looking at your excellently executed system I noticed that you had 2 smaller pumps. I'm eventually going to be heating a floor loop in a garage and one in a greenhouse plus a heat exchanger in my house. Hopefully there will be a few Btus left for a sidearm DHW

It's already been said but that is one clean and well though out install!!

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

Please forgive me if this has been addressed somewhere else. I've started building my system and I'm still collecting parts too. Is there an advantage in having individual zone pumps over having one larger pump and zone valves?

I got a huge pump(compared to yours) and flanges free if I removed the boiler. While looking at your excellently executed system I noticed that you had 2 smaller pumps. I'm eventually going to be heating a floor loop in a garage and one in a greenhouse plus a heat exchanger in my house. Hopefully there will be a few Btus left for a sidearm DHW

It's already been said but that is one clean and well though out install!!

If I remember correctly, I believe my dealer told me there is a limit on the combined length of ALL the lines that a pump can handle? I can see that in my mind as the other pumps would ease the load on the main pump. Been a while though.

You got me wondering so I went back and looked at my bills and at that time a 3 way zone valve was about the same money as a pump so that is something to consider as well. Another thing is in 7 years I've had ZERO problems with the pumps but the zone valve head went bad which was $90.00 itself. Personal preference but I'd go with the pumps.

When I bought my system dealer just made out a list and said here is what you'll need and it goes in this order. He leaves it up to the customer on how they get it all in place. I never questioned it as he's a straight shooter.

Thanks for the kind words from you and others as well. I do take pride in my projects and like doing them, just hate to redo anything.