Need a big bar for 3120xp

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pdqdl

Old enough to know better.
. AS Supporting Member.
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I wore out the 50" bar for our Husqy 3120xp last year. Now up comes a tree that really deserves an investment in having the bigger bar.

  • Oregon makes a 42" bar, but availability is scarce. 50" doesn't exist any more.
  • Cannon 50" SuperBar Chainsaw Bar (142 Drive Links) CSB-S2-50-63-4 is OMG expensive: $380 before shipping at Baileys, $350 on Ebay. Somehow it seems unlikely that this is worth all the extra money.
  • 50″ GB Extra Long Titanium Bar – GBF HV50-63RQ – D009 seems like a better deal, but I have no experience with that brand or alloy.

That seems to be the only bars I can find; I was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions. Comments on the two choices above are quite welcome.

BTW: I got 19 years of use out of the last bar (roller nose from Oregon), so it isn't like I am going to be wearing this bar out real quick.
 
Cannon has a wider belly which keeps the chain on better when the bar is horizontal. Bucking doesn't matter as much as trying to make felling cuts.
 
Cannon has a wider belly which keeps the chain on better when the bar is horizontal. Bucking doesn't matter as much as trying to make felling cuts.

I have never considered the shape of the belly for keeping the chain on. I always presumed that the chain was just always going to be a bit loose, and you had better blip the throttle before you set it in the cut.

Why is the Cannon perceived to be worth so much more? It can't be as simple as a bit wider and heavier.
 
I have never considered the shape of the belly for keeping the chain on. I always presumed that the chain was just always going to be a bit loose, and you had better blip the throttle before you set it in the cut.

Why is the Cannon perceived to be worth so much more? It can't be as simple as a bit wider and heavier.
Way less sag when on its side. The bigger belly helps it stay in the groove.
 
Just takes up the slack between Hooski studs and Stihl slots....

Does that sound dirty to anyone else ?

Homelite410 makes a nice one.

That sounds like it would be pretty damned thin. I wouldn't expect it to last very long.

Are we talking thin bars that make the goove thinner, or bushings that slide over the studs? Either method seems prone to early failure.
 
Way less sag when on its side. The bigger belly helps it stay in the groove.

I can see advantages and disadvantages to the bigger belly. Obviously the chain will stay in the groove a bit better and the bar will be significantly heavier. Probably stronger, too.

I have noticed when some of my less experienced guys were using the big saw in the past, they were unable to keep the cut going straight. I was obliged to show them that the saw needed to be steered in the right direction, rather than just yanking on the handles. I imagine that a deeper belly would reduce the tendency to cut crooked, and would also make it more difficult to bring back on target if the cut was poorly chosen.

I also occurs to me that the wear on the bar might be more even given a curved belly, rather than the almost straight line of the cheaper bar.
 
That sounds like it would be pretty damned thin. I wouldn't expect it to last very long.

Are we talking thin bars that make the goove thinner, or bushings that slide over the studs? Either method seems prone to early failure.
Think about the amount of actual purchase on the stud.
There won't be a problem.

Bushings or adapter.......either will work.

And try to find a better price on a quality bar. Lol
 
I can see advantages and disadvantages to the bigger belly. Obviously the chain will stay in the groove a bit better and the bar will be significantly heavier. Probably stronger, too.

I have noticed when some of my less experienced guys were using the big saw in the past, they were unable to keep the cut going straight. I was obliged to show them that the saw needed to be steered in the right direction, rather than just yanking on the handles. I imagine that a deeper belly would reduce the tendency to cut crooked, and would also make it more difficult to bring back on target if the cut was poorly chosen.

I also occurs to me that the wear on the bar might be more even given a curved belly, rather than the almost straight line of the cheaper bar.
The big belly bar for Cannon don't start till 60" I have one I run once in a blue in a big fir, cedar, or there is no damn place to stand for all cuts. With that 60" you don't start any cuts it's a cut finisher basically you start with another saw with say a 32" on it so the chain doesn't derail. On to cost seems like I paid 400 a few years ago for it and two loops of skip 3/8's square chisel at Madsen's they'd be my first call on a long bar I know they keep up to a 72" and once in a blue a 84". There's a picture of the 60 hanging out a cut and if you look closely you can seen the nose dropping down I'll say it's not light to pack but how often do you use one all day long?
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