Need advice on rigging by taking wraps

[TreeandLand]

I did a few takedowns that required rigging heavy pieces of wood this year- they went well, but could have been better. I'd like my groundman to be able to handle the lowering with more control. When I cut the top off a pine tree it fell for 15 feet before it stopped because of rope slack and stretch.
I don't have a port-a-wrap and don't plan to buy one right away, so I need to use the old school method of taking wraps around the tree with the rigging line. When he makes the wraps is it better to try to keep them near the base of the tree? My thought is that taking two or three wraps that spiral down the whole trunk of the tree leaves more rope slack- because the force of the load makes the wraps creep up the tree a bit. Have any of you had this happen?

 

[lumberjack333]

The ropes gonna slip up the tree a bit until it hits a branch or is resting where it naturally wants to ride... best thing you can do is make sure all the rigging on your side is as tight as possible ie: the limb/chunk that you are lowing is as close to the block/falsecrotch or natural crotch as possible, minimize horizontal swing whenever you can try and keep the rigging point higher than whatevers being roped out (I know its not possible when chunking down a spar, but again, keep everything as tight as possible.) Have your groundies coil up all the slack in the rope and keep it tight while walking it around the tree, instead of standing in one spot and trying to pull it all around. If you have more than one man on the ground have one pull slack from the working side of the rope and the other pull that slack into the tail... Even with a porta-wrap theres bound to be a little slack in the system most of the time. As for the rope stretch, most ropes used in our industry are toward the dynamic side. This helps absorb that final shock load into the rope itself rather than directly to the tree, and since we climb using work positioning technique without fall arrest gear the stretch in a climbing line could be the difference between that 3" crotch your tied into letting go or holding... if you ever fell in a situation that would shockload the system.

 

[tree MDS]

You have to make sure the rope is tight before you cut, whether you want it to run or not, this will reduce the shock load you experienced greatly.

As far as the wraps and where to put them...I've been using the porty for at least eight years now (so take this with a grain of salt), but as I remember its sort like in between all at the base and all spread out. With the wraps spread out there is potentially less stress on the trunk - how much less I dont know, but if you ever pole clip a large cut with three sections, first try it without taking wraps, then take a couple wraps on the poles (spread out) and then see how the poles react differently.

Or just get a portawrap and get with the times a bit, they really aint all that expensive dude.

BTW: welcome to AS.

 

[Blakesmaster]

Have your groundie pull the rope as tight as possible without any friction, then as LJ said, walk the entire rope around the nearest tree once or twice keeping it as taught as possible. S'all there is to it.

 

[Tree Pig]

You have to make sure the rope is tight before you cut, whether you want it to run or not, this will reduce the shock load you experienced greatly.

As far as the wraps and where to put them...I've been using the porty for at least eight years now (so take this with a grain of salt), but as I remember its sort like in between all at the base and all spread out. With the wraps spread out there is potentially less stress on the trunk - how much less I dont know, but if you ever pole clip a large cut with three sections, first try it without taking wraps, then take a couple wraps on the poles (spread out) and then see how the poles react differently.

Or just get a portawrap and get with the times a bit, they really aint all that expensive dude.

BTW: welcome to AS.

Got to agree with the port a wrap, cheap and worth every penny.

 

[bruce6670]

Just get the porta-wrap.It's so much easier and safer.

You won't regret it.

 

[Garden Of Eden]

Just get the porta-wrap.It's so much easier and safer.

You won't regret it.

Just had a lowering device made. Friend of the family did it for me. The guy used to weld nuclear reactors. The shop he owns x-rayed the welds for me. Bulletproof...

 

[lumberjack333]

Interesting device eden... how does that work exactly?

 

[Bearcreek]

I'd like to see pics of that with a rope on it. Can't figure out how it works.

 

[bruce6670]

Just had a lowering device made. Friend of the family did it for me. The guy used to weld nuclear reactors. The shop he owns x-rayed the welds for me. Bulletproof...

That looks a little busy.It does look strong though.

 

[MillerTreeMN]

keep life simple.

just use a wrap, around the tree.

i keep my wraps very low. its tougher to take the slack out while wrapping around the tree 20 feet over your head.

 

[Tree Pig]

keep life simple.

just use a wrap, around the tree.

i keep my wraps very low. its tougher to take the slack out while wrapping around the tree 20 feet over your head.

depending on how much work you do purchasing a port a wrap will pay for it self in a year just on how much wear and tear it will save on your ropes from taking rap around a tree. Especially if you toss in a pulley or block instead of natural crotch.

 

[bruce6670]

keep life simple.

just use a wrap, around the tree.

i keep my wraps very low. its tougher to take the slack out while wrapping around the tree 20 feet over your head.

A porta wrap is simple and you have much better control of the wood.

 

[Garden Of Eden]

I'd like to see pics of that with a rope on it. Can't figure out how it works.

haha....Sorry. I'll post some tomorrow with some 3strand I got. My rigging bag was stolen recently, So, I'm trying to replace stuff. It's frustrating me.

Pics in the AM!!

God Bless,

Jeff

 

[TreeandLand]

Using Samsonite climbing line

I use a 175' half inch Samsonite climbing line for rigging because it's what I have, and rope is expensive. Would you use it or does it have too much stretch for rigging? Like you said, dynamic rope is a good thing because it absorbs the shock.
Who has made their own slings for the false crotch and porta-wrap...what rope do you use, and how do you tie it? Make a loop and choke the trunk is what I was thinking. For a false crotch I've been using a prusic adjustable three strand lanyard. It's not made for the job, but it is rated to 6,600lbs. I like it because the rope snaps allow you to clip in the rigging line whenever you're ready.

The ropes gonna slip up the tree a bit until it hits a branch or is resting where it naturally wants to ride... best thing you can do is make sure all the rigging on your side is as tight as possible ie: the limb/chunk that you are lowing is as close to the block/falsecrotch or natural crotch as possible, minimize horizontal swing whenever you can try and keep the rigging point higher than whatevers being roped out (I know its not possible when chunking down a spar, but again, keep everything as tight as possible.) Have your groundies coil up all the slack in the rope and keep it tight while walking it around the tree, instead of standing in one spot and trying to pull it all around. If you have more than one man on the ground have one pull slack from the working side of the rope and the other pull that slack into the tail... Even with a porta-wrap theres bound to be a little slack in the system most of the time. As for the rope stretch, most ropes used in our industry are toward the dynamic side. This helps absorb that final shock load into the rope itself rather than directly to the tree, and since we climb using work positioning technique without fall arrest gear the stretch in a climbing line could be the difference between that 3" crotch your tied into letting go or holding... if you ever fell in a situation that would shockload the system.

 

[danieltree]

That is only 660 pounds. I think you should invest in some equipment before you tear something up or hurt someone. wesspur has some nice sling and block combos for around 200 bucks and you can get a better rope for rigging for close to that. half inch is fine for most limbs but I would not use it for tops and such. My rule is 10 percent of the equipments rating, so a 20,000 pound rope is only safe for 2000 and that weight adds up quick when you drop a top on itself. Buy the art and science of practical rigging and read it. I think you can get for around 25 dollars. I know its hard starting out and working with what you have on hand but some things should not be done unless you have the proper gear and understand the stresses you are putting on that gear.​

 

[StewartTreeCare]

Got to agree with the port a wrap, cheap and worth every penny.

I agree 100% i picked up my steel pot-a-wrap for like $200 dollars. That money could potentially save your life, the groundies life, or someone's personal property. My fiance' is 110lbs, she could lower evrything down for me. A great piece of equiptment!!!!

 

[StewartTreeCare]

I agree 100% i picked up my steel pot-a-wrap for like $200 dollars. That money could potentially save your life, the groundies life, or someone's personal property. My fiance' is 110lbs, she could lower evrything down for me. A great piece of equiptment!!!!

also it will save you money in the long run by saving your rope from all that un-needed wear from the bark.

 

[DK_stihl]

Bark wear

also it will save you money in the long run by saving your rope from all that un-needed wear from the bark.

It works both ways. Lets say you're just removing a large branch over a house, not the entire tree. The port-a-wrap (and blocks) will protect the tree from the rope! That makes you look professional. Something to consider if you do a lot of trimming.

 

[lumberjack333]

I've been using half inch for the past 2 years, I make my cuts small and 90% of the time I'm rigging out of a 2" rescue pulley. I use a few different lengths of 1/2" static kernmantle line as the falsecrotch to tie (anchor hitch backed with figure 8 stopper attaching the biner and figure 8 loop on the other end to choke it) the steel biner and pulley into. As for attaching the porta wrap, I have varying lengths of kevlar loop slings, some that I double wrap around the base, others fit nicely with a single wrap and the choked... depends on tree diameter. Basically useing half inch to rig with is fine, but you're not gonna be able to take big pieces... if the weakest point in the system is 5k lbs then work within that range. Even some of the spar wood will be too heavy in 16" lengths to falsecrotch down, you'll either have to bomb it out into a crash pad of brush, or get some heavier gear.