Need Asplund JEX manual

[treemanjohn]

i need a manual for my asplundh JEX 12 inch chipper. I'm having problems removing the flywheel to access the bearings for replacement. I think I broke the sleeve behind the flywheel.

 

[Steve-Maine]

Asplundh Manual

I can mail you a copy of a Model JEY Asplundh Manual if it will help. Its about the same as a JEX.

 

[treemanjohn]

ok got one coming

thnx steve for the offer . found one on ebay for 8 bucks. any i deas on removing a stuck flywheel though would love to hear em..

 

[treemanjohn]

of course the one from ebay is gonna take two weeks

So if anyone has a pdf version or something i'd appreciate it

 

[towmotormatt]

I broke the split hub on the flywheel for my JEX chipper on friday night taking the flywheel off. Altec said they didnt have nothing for me for my chipper as it was pre 1974, so I'm looking for a used hub off a parts unit myself. If anyone knows of any machines being parted out, a PM would be appreciated.

Otherwise if there is someone out there making new ones, i'd be interested in that.

Ultimately I can turn a new one out of steel (would be better than cast iron) but would rather not, as it is a lot of work.

treemanjohn - i had to heat my flywheel to get it to expand a little bit, but my rosebud torch was giving me problems so i didnt get it much warmer than 150-200 degrees, and that may have been why i broke the hub with the extracting bolts pushing on it. If your flange is gone, you may need to put some steel plate to use as shims between the flywheel and the bearing cover, so you can push off that with the three bolts.

 

[treemanjohn]

Removing Bearings on old Asplundh chipper 12"

OK so i got the bearings uncovered....4 balls missing on one side, other side looks ok....how do i remove the bearing? of course its not even mentioned in the manual. Can i replace just one side? thank God altec can get my sleeve. Someone told me to cut the race with a torch and get the balls out, then remove the bearing housing, then use a bearing breaker to remove the inner race? Any help on this would be appreciated. I imagine the new bearing is pressed into the housing then the housing and bearing together are pressed onto rotor assembly?

 

[towmotormatt]

Man, you got a sleeve from Altec? what serial number is yours? can you give me the general dimensions of your sleeve for me to compare with. I'm wondering how far off it is from mine.

Someone told me today that I could weld the cracks on the sleeve (split hub) with some nickel rod and still be able to use it. I am a little leery about that kind of repair though and would rather buy a new one if it is the same as what you're using on yours.

Matt

 

[towmotormatt]

OK Boys and Girls

Someone laid it on me that this split hub looked like a Browning Bushing. So I looked it up, and sure enough, the "F3" stamped onto the face of my hub corresponds to a Browning F 3 hub which has the 3" ID I need and the three bolt holes.

So, for those of you who unwittingly destroyed your hubs trying to remove that flywheel on your Asplundh chippers, check it over for a stamping and that should correspond to a browning bushing for a direct replacement.

My day just got a whole lot better!

Matt

Edit: Cleaning the face up some more, I found another stamping that read "Wood" which may correspond with the TB Wood co, which also manufacturers bushings with the size F3. Other manufacturers include "Gates", "Martin", and "Dodge". These seem to be standard "QD" bushings for "Quick Detachable", and in this case, a F series, 3".

 

[towmotormatt]

John,

if you think of it, take photos of your bearing removal or give some directions on how you did it. That is next on my list, and i'm sure it would also benefit others in the future to see how you did it.

Hope it come out easier than I think it would.

Cheers!

Matt

 

[treemanjohn]

well nothings been easy so far....thank u...yes I will take pictures. my bushing sounds the same as yours..its almost 400. from altec so gonna check out woods and browning tomorrow, altecs is backordered it so I have time i think, expensive break...i guess ill call altec connect and speak to a tech tomorrow too. See how they remove bearings on old units.
Ill post all my findings

 

[treemanjohn]

ok, so talked to an altecconnect technician and he said the bearing is lightly tapped into housing but really the bearing slides right on rotor shaft. no presses involved. He said lightly heat the inner race and use the 2 push bolts and it should slide right off with the bearing housing. He said i should replace both sides but i could get away with one side. Havent checked the bushing sites yet. I'll update more as I do it.

 

[towmotormatt]

That doesnt sound too bad. I'm going to try and take all of the blades out of the drum first before i remove the bearings, as the blade restraining bolts are probably going to be difficult to get loose even with pb blaster sprayed on them regularly for the last few weeks.

My last post didnt go through. I wanted to make recommendations that you search ebay first for QD bushings or QD F, F series bushings, etc. If your bushing is a different size than mine (bigger or smaller shaft than 3") then you might be able to find one on ebay.

otherwise if you have the F 3 bushing also, I couldnt find one on ebay but used google shopping and found one for $81.50 at zoro tools dot com, with free shipping!

cheers,

Matt

 

[treemanjohn]

so got a F3 martin bushing for 161. out the door, matched exactly. the bearing that was whole on my chipper slid right off with the 2- 3/4" through bolts..the other side , a different story...the inner race is seized on the shaft and removing all the balls didn't work. the bearing housing has a back that goes tight to rotor shaft, hard to explain, but I don't want to risk breaking the bearing housing so i loaded the rotor shaft with the bearing housing stuck on one side in my pickup and dropped it off at the local machine shop.

 

[towmotormatt]

Good to hear you got one out easy. mine are noisy but i dont think they're that bad, so I'm hoping they both pop out easy. I'm going to replace both as the chipper came with a set of 2 new bearings.

how did the blades come off for you?

 

[treemanjohn]

Replacing knives

I did the knives and the anvil when I bought this chipper last year. They weren't too bad. Cleaned the allen slots real good and they broke free nicely. Removing the anvil was a little tougher but lots of breakfree spray and they came off. I knew the bearings were bad and payed 3500. My old boss made replacing bearings sound easy. Them bearings are expensive though, 325. here local and 332. + lots of shipping charges from altecconnect. I'm definitely covering my chipper from now, found rust deep in everywhere... I guess its to be expected, and the new bearing are sealed and all. Well, till later.
John

 

[towmotormatt]

Make sure you generously use antiseize on everything. Hopefully you will not have to replace these bearings again, but when you do, it should be much easier.

What part no. and brand were those bearings? The numbers i saw on the boxes for mine (NOS, covered with dust) was 316SS.

 

[treemanjohn]

SKF 6316-2RS1/C3GJN is what altecconnect sent me. Yes, it should all be easy next time. Now that I know what I'm doing.

 

[towmotormatt]

John,

Took my anvils and blades out tonight. The multiple treatments of PB Blaster did it's job and i barely had any trouble getting them off with the impact wrench (had to use a breaker bar on one). The adjusting screws are a different story though. They seem pretty stuck in place and the last owner actually used shims on top of these to set the blades. I'm thinking these screws may be a pain in the royal a## to remove, but i sprayed some PB on them for tonight and will take the bearings off tomorrow. I'm hoping the adjusting screws come out eventually, and I'll probably have to buy new ones as a few seem to have been ground down on the top. Were you quoted any prices on those from Altec?

How are you making out on your end? Did you get the drum back from the shop yet?

Matt

 

[treemanjohn]

Ordered the second bearing locally for 323. Haven't heard back from the shop yet about the rotor. They were kinda busy soo... Hopefully they are done soon. I'm definitely rotating my anvil and checking the floor plate while I have the rotor out. I'd hate to strip those adjusting bolts for the blades. Mine actually moved easy. I'll add more as I get it done.
John

 

[towmotormatt]

what do you mean, "rotating" your anvils?