NEED HEEEELP*&%& (again). Husqvarna 345i

[david newbie]

Hi, thank you for your patience. I picked up this decent looking 345 in a trade, and it ran on prime! I thought OK, that sounds easy, just rebuild the carb. Before I did that however, I got I t to run, but acted a little like an air leak idling tooo fast. Its got the dreaded plastic intake clamp so I thought I would just need to fix that, However, I discovered that a guy has to pull the cylinder to do that, which is a little involved for a guy who doesn't mess with clamshell saws. I noticed a couple strange things. Firstly; one of the cylinder bolts was quite loose. After removing the cylinder, I noticed that the seals looked odd to my untrained eye. One has a little metal piece on top of the seal and but pto side does not. Seal looks a little chewed up. Not familiar with this type of seal, does it simply slip over the outer circumference of the bearing ( impressive big word for a liberal, don't you think?)I assume I will need new seals, but what about that little metal piece that's just one one side and NOT the other? Also, the plastic bearing 'seat" appears to be a little melted? What happened, and can I just seal that up real well? The cylinder looks perfect, and the piston seems decent also. I probably wont keep this saw, already have too many that rarely get used.

 

[NSEric]

You need a lower case half.
If you can find one for nothing or really cheap swap it out.
If you cant get parts, clean the bearings up real good then coat them with your favorite sealer, let it set for a day or two then try it.
If this doesnt work you have a good parts saw.

 

[sean donato]

The one bearing spun in the bore. As said, the lower case will need replaced and it needs new seals. They should both be covered completely with rubber to seal in the case half/top end. Some use a bit of rtv etc where the case halves meet.

 

[david newbie]

need a little more guidance here. I probably could have ordered new bearings with seals, but instead I cheated out and just ordered the seals. However, I'm not sure of how to remove the old seals from the bearings?! Any experience with this? Thanks for your help

 

[cscltd]

I think you need a new oiler gear too as it looks stripped?

 

[farmguywithasaw]

I think you need a new oiler gear too as it looks stripped?

I would honestly replace the bearings myself. However I put mine in the vice and tapped the bearings out if you decided to re use just be careful with your punch you don’t damage the cage/ race

 

[david newbie]

I would honestly replace the bearings myself. However I put mine in the vice and tapped the bearings out if you decided to re use just be careful with your punch you don’t damage the cage/ race

Does that work for the 345 set up?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Does that work for the 345 set up?

345 bearings simply drop on to the crank- they are not punch fitted.

 

[J D]

Cylinder bolts are known to come loose on these... along with muffler bolts & intake boots.

Spacers are supposed to be there but I have no idea why. They were removed in later saws.
I would definitely replace the bearings, they are standard 6201(c3) & you will hate yourself for putting those new seals on the old bearings if one is on it's way out (which is quite probably what started cooking the case).
Reassemble with a smear of threebond or similar fuel rated sealant & be sure to vac /pressure test as these can be a bugger to get sealed up right.
As mentioned, oil pump & probably drive need attention too

 

[farmguywithasaw]

345 bearings simply drop on to the crank- they are not punch fitted.

He asked how to get the old bearings out of the old seals…. That’s how I did mine. Nothing to do with installing the bearings on the crank

 

[david newbie]

I ordered bearings AND seals this time, Can I squeeze the seals onto the bearings with my vice? How do you guys do that?

 

[Chevboy0167]

Seal driver and a large socket is the safest for me...

 

[Chevboy0167]

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Bearing-...prefix=bearing+race+driver+set,aps,167&sr=8-6